Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Surely one would see better use on a Canter than a Skyrine? ><

Ummmmmm.................thinking....................Canter, that's a Mitsubishi, so it would be a Trust turbo then. :wassup:

  • Replies 152
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey sydkid did u find any great differnts in spool time from normal turbine to titanium turbine

thanks Brad

Hi Brad, I ordered it that way from Innovative, so I have no basis of comparison.:)

I dont know if anyone has mentioned it and i don't know if Brian is woried about it

or if anyone else is but with a BIG single can the RTA road transport authority give you a defective vehicle for a big single?

I dont want to get into the argument of 1big or twins but i would hate it to get it all together and have our friendley "BOYS IN BLUE" come and tell you that you have a defect note, i dont think the insurance company will approve a payout when they pop the hood and see somthing like a T88 staring at them!!

I dont know if anyone has mentioned it and i don't know if Brian is woried about it

or if anyone else is but with a BIG single can the RTA road transport authority give you a defective vehicle for a big single?

I dont want to get into the argument of 1big or twins but i would hate it to get it all together and have our friendley "BOYS IN BLUE" come and tell you that you have a defect note, i dont think the insurance company will approve a payout when they pop the hood and see somthing like a T88 staring at them!!

The reality is you are not allowed to do ANYTHING, if that worries you, then don't do ANYTHING.:rofl:

I understand what you are saying SK, I also notice that most of the photos you are showing are from "TRACKS"... (the one above)

Most of the others are not... and i aknowledge that you are not allowed to modify vehicles very far but you can upgrade things like

Fuel pump (in tank)

injectors (in head)

PFC (behind kick pannel & in glovebox)

cams (cam covers)

exhaust (within reason)

and to a certian extent twin lowmounts (like 25/30, GTRS), on the original manifolds

and your vehicle is capable of some awsome HP and without attracting ANY undue attention from the authorites, I drive for a living and around the southern sub's of brissie and even over the NSW border you have RTA setup like clockwork.. and "ALMOST" every time i go past one there is an IMPORT with the bonnet up and a 19-25 yr old looking at the cops (not knowing whats wrong with their vehicle)

I would hate to spend upwards of 3g only to find it gets a defect the first time the screemer pipe opens up. :Oops:

i aknowledge that you are not allowed to modify vehicles very far but you can upgrade things like

Most of the things you listed you are not allowed to modify without engineering. The only reason you get away with it is because they are hidden, or the cop doesn't care or know what they are looking for.

With a big single its going to be high mount, which means it will be obvious as soon as the bonnet is popped.

LW.

Most of the things you listed you are not allowed to modify without engineering.  The only reason you get away with it is because they are hidden, or the cop doesn't care or know what they are looking for.

With a big single its going to be high mount, which means it will be obvious as soon as the bonnet is popped.

LW.

Assuming the cop can pick the difference between a GTR and a GTST and knows that the GTR should have 2 turbos.

people here have been pulled over, and Vic being the worst.

Most of the time the big single isnt a problem.

Only is if you give em attitude or they do you for misbehaving on the street

Just like anywhere else. If you dont give them a reason to pull you over, you most likely wont be.

Wearing clothing that doesnt fit, with your arm out the window listening to 'thug rap' really loud and a hat on, expect to fit in to the stereotype and get pulled over.

I havent been pulled over in over 12months in my bright red loud import.

Anyway back on topic.

What about a single that is equal? As in the front and rear is the same, wheel size, housing size etc? Now assuming the turbo is set up correctly to say something that is more off set, but still suited properly, which would be better?

  • 2 months later...

What a controvercial topic . I think its possible to argue either case or should I say back either team .

IMO its not relevant to compare in line 4's to inline sixes because of their firing order and 180 vs 120 degree crank phasing .

There is something to be said for two waste gates and their flow potential particularly given the 3 cylinders and the mass flow from them . I've often wondered if the twin turbos for FIA Grp A used restrictors or was it the blow off valve that limited maximum boost . Also importantly exhaust manifold design , the short three branch may have less potential flow restriction and heat loss than a divided 3+3 into 2 single turbo design .

At the end of the day I'm going with a med-large single to get around the plumbing nightmare that exists with twins . With 3 litres and an RB26 top end I think a GT3540R possibly with an integral gate should be fine . I'm not that concerned what it'll look like but factory as much as is practical . I don't need race pace just nice lazy torque and enough squirt to keep the Commos and Coons in their rightful place (rearview mirror) lamenting in their expensive mobile lounge sweets ..........

Cheers A .

Interesting topic indeed, some alternative views for thought stimulation;

There is something to be said for two waste gates and their flow potential particularly given the 3 cylinders and the mass flow from them .

I want most of my exhaust to drive the the turbine, not out the wastegate and waste all of that energy. I reckon one wastegate is all I would need, in fact zero wastegates has appeal.

I've often wondered if the twin turbos for FIA Grp A used restrictors or was it the blow off valve that limited maximum boost .

They had a blow off valve that was bolted onto the plenum and limited the boost. Sorta like a Champ Car.

Also importantly exhaust manifold design , the short three branch may have less potential flow restriction and heat loss than a divided 3+3 into 2 single turbo design .

Yep, but they have uneven firing, I reckon an extractor flow 6 to 1 would be better if tuned correctly. Sorta like the R31GTSR homologated exhaust manifold.

At the end of the day I'm going with a med-large single to get around the plumbing nightmare that exists with twins.

That's pretty much the same reasoning as I went for.

:)

  • 7 years later...

Not really, 1.3L 3cyc per turbo V 2.6L 6 cyc per turbo.

Also turbo shuffle in the twin setup is also pretty annoying.

I recon that I can make a jig for a bolton single turbo suitting a Rb26dett if I can get hold a GTR for few weeks.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...