Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

alpine cda9807. very good unit. i had a pioneer cd mp3550 or whatever model it was. the pioneer had only basic features but worked well. the alpine is great allows track search by name (helpful with 150+ tracks on a cd). also the alpine sounds better and has better support, mine has twin 4v preouts, sub control and some other cool features the pioneer didnt have. also the pioneer display used to go dim on high quality songs with a high level of bass. all in all the pioneer is a cheap solution but the alpine is better for more $

remembre if you are playing 128kbps mp3s either of them will sound shit. 192kbps bare minimum. 224kbps sounds great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1338519
Share on other sites

I have a Pioneer DEH-P5550 which is brilliant value for money.

Alpine are very good but costly.

JVC provide good bang for your buck.

I have a Pioneer P5750 HU and for the money you can't go past it. 3 pre outs, sub control with variable frequency. MP3/WMA playback functions and i have no problem with it dimming on big bass, this mainly caused by drop in volts due to a small battery anyway. But as CerealKiller said dont look past the JVC either. Good HU's with plenty of strong features and a competitive price to mach. The Apline being a good HU but your paying for a name really. At the end of the day its what you like and suits your needs not the recommendation of somebody else :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1339262
Share on other sites

Jvc..

alpine used to be a long way ahead of the pack, now a lof of the others have caught up.

Yep, and you will find that people will still go for the name brand as theats all they know. You wouldnt go out and buy a Mini Moke just cause some told you too :wassup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1339845
Share on other sites

Q:

I've got a JVC MP3 Player in my car (atleast 3yrs old, was about $1,600 when put in by previous owneer). About 2mths ago things didn't sound right so I took it to a local mob and they said it was having grounding issues. They said a bodge job was done just to 'get me back on the road' but said when that bodge job stops then a new unit is required (internally broken).

Is it possible to get these repaired just like with a tv/vcr etc or are they non-repairable? It does everything I need and I'd rather get it fixed (if cheaper) than buying a new unit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1339977
Share on other sites

Head units can be repaired by your local audio shop, take it into them and see what they can do. However getting them repaired can be costly and you won't know how expensive it is really going to be until the unit is in pieces. In most cases, it can be cheaper to just buy a new headunit.

There are many similar units, with similar features for the same price. Generally just go with the one that you like the look of better and is easier to use and you will be happy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1340115
Share on other sites

They said a bodge job was done just to 'get me back on the road' but said when that bodge job stops then a new unit is required (internally broken).  

Is it possible to get these repaired just like with a tv/vcr etc or are they non-repairable? It does everything I need and I'd rather get it fixed (if cheaper) than buying a new unit.

I can't think of anything that would fix a HU that would be bodge enough to reasonably be expected to fail again. Did you know what that was because I could be wrong but it doesn't sound right to me.

Expensive head units should be servicable, but I'd be weary of a place that does a bodge job just to get you "back on the road", I just don't get that mentality - you got any more info?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1340202
Share on other sites

I can't think of anything that would fix a HU that would be bodge enough to reasonably be expected to fail again. Did you know what that was because I could be wrong but  it doesn't sound right to me.

Expensive head units should be servicable, but I'd be weary of a place that does a bodge job just to get you "back on the road", I just don't get that mentality - you got any more info?

Yeah sounds a little suss to me as well. Give us a bit more info and that way we might be able to help you out. If it is an earthing problem with the HU then it would most likely be cheaper to buy a new HU these days as they are now a reasonable price for what you have existing already.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1340450
Share on other sites

(Model: JVC KD-SH99R MP3)

Well my front/rear speakers sounded really tinny and then when I plugged my subwoofer+amp in it made a horrible noise so I disconnected that straight away. So I took it to a local shop (friend of a friend works there), not the best place but i'd have to travel a good 30mins to get it checked by a decent shop so I thought it might have just been a loose wire or something simply (I know absolutely nothing about car audio, don't even know how to take the HU out) so got them to look at it anyway.

I left it with them for an hour with a "im not sure what the problem is, find out and lemme know". I returned and they said it was an internal grounding fault so they soldered "something something something" to "help me out" and said if it breaks again to just buy a new HU. It worked perfectly on the way home, but when I went to drive my car the next morning it was back to the tinny+distortion so I havent used it in like 4-6wks.

I didn't ask them to bodge it but they thought they were doing me a favour (shop manager had a import and he liked mine). Cost me $80 which I wasn't happy about when it broke (didnt ask for a bodge job and it broke 24hrs later) but ah well im over that now, just wouldn't mind it fixed. I'm not missing it much coz I dont drive my car much (especially long trips) but I hate things not working properly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1340564
Share on other sites

(Model: JVC KD-SH99R MP3)

Well my front/rear speakers sounded really tinny and then when I plugged my subwoofer+amp in it made a horrible noise so I disconnected that straight away. So I took it to a local shop (friend of a friend works there), not the best place but i'd have to travel a good 30mins to get it checked by a decent shop so I thought it might have just been a loose wire or something simply (I know absolutely nothing about car audio, don't even know how to take the HU out) so got them to look at it anyway.

I left it with them for an hour with a "im not sure what the problem is, find out and lemme know". I returned and they said it was an internal grounding fault so they soldered "something something something" to "help me out" and said if it breaks again to just buy a new HU. It worked perfectly on the way home, but when I went to drive my car the next morning it was back to the tinny+distortion so I havent used it in like 4-6wks.

I didn't ask them to bodge it but they thought they were doing me a favour (shop manager had a import and he liked mine). Cost me $80 which I wasn't happy about when it broke (didnt ask for a bodge job and it broke 24hrs later) but ah well im over that now, just wouldn't mind it fixed. I'm not missing it much coz I dont drive my car much (especially long trips) but I hate things not working properly.

Well it sounds like to me they did a dodgy. A connection that has been soldered properlly shouldn't break in 24 hours under normal conditions. And to charge you $80 is EXTREMLY STEEP in my book as it would of taken about 5 mins to do. I would be letting them know it didn't last 24 hours and that you not happy. I once had a grounding issue with my old HU and i took it in to get looked at as i thought it was originally the internal fuse. They fixed the grounding problem and it cost me $10 which is what it should of been for you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1340833
Share on other sites

Ive got an Alpine 9815, which is awesome, heaps of good options, mp3,wma, 2 x 4v pre-out, sub woofer control, time alignment, eq, active crossovers, i was thinking of maybe getting one of the JVC DVD players as I use mp3s a lot as i dont like to get original discs scratched, and you can have many albums on one disc. 700mb of music compared to 4.5Gb or 8.5Gb on a daul layer dvd, trips to perth with one DVD :thumbsup:.

Evil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1341945
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

ive got a pioneer deh-p9650mp, does lots of cool shit... still working out what half of all the buttons n stuff are... fairly expensive but ( i think there like $1,400 ??? not sure ) got mine for $700 but... lucky for me my mate owns a car audio place so i get stuff for cheaper :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1390109
Share on other sites

Probably been asked before, but what MP3 CD Headunits are people here using/recommend? I was going to get an Alpine one, but have heard that they are too overpriced for what they are.

Cheers,

Sam.

Alpine mp3 head units are very good. I have one myself and am very happy with the read time when loading mp3 tracks. Plus searching for tracks and navigating the folders is very easy to do. Alpine make some great SQ comp units too like the 9835.

I can get you an Alpine 9835 for $700 brand new. Let me know if you're interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1390120
Share on other sites

Ive got a low end Pioneer one but it's great

I organise all my MP3's in alubum folders so no need to search too far.

Up/Down for folders

Left/Right for individual tracks within the folder.

Great for putting a single artist with all their albums on to 1 CD

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1390132
Share on other sites

ive got a pioneer deh-p9650mp, does lots of cool shit... still working out what half of all the buttons n stuff are... fairly expensive but ( i think there like $1,400 ??? not sure ) got mine for $700 but... lucky for me my mate owns a car audio place so i get stuff for cheaper :rant:

on that end of the scale I have a bremen mp74 . does a LOT and most of it is automatically set up.

see:

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=51766

and

http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=53213

btw I own a car audio store..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72783-mp3-cd-players/#findComment-1390576
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...