Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've heard that some RS Liberty owners drill holes in their air boxes, or maybe it was their air filters? :confused:

Could I do this on an R32 to increase air into the box?

Also, are the standard air boxes better than a pod on an R32? I remember seeing somewhere once that someone recommended leaving the panel filter in. Is this baloney?

Cheers! :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/7465-drilling-holes-in-air-box/
Share on other sites

What a load of baloney!

Leave the standard air box standard. Otherwise you are pulling hot air into the engine, and hot air in the intake leads to detonation. Even more so when you rip out the airbox and replace it with a pod filter. It gets only hot air then.

What I did with mine was to remove the stupid little duct that feeds air from the front of the car to the airbox (it runs under the LH headlamp). Replace that with a piece of 3" flexible tube that drops down behind the headlight into the area just in front of the normal IC location.

Let Subaru owners drill holes in their filters, but I don't want to ingest anything bigger than a bacterium into my engine.

Guest Boxhead

then here is my question, on a turbo car, why shoudl it matter where the air is coming from, if its going through an intercooler?

surely if you have a nice big front mount that shouldnt make a difference.. :S

just make a partition if you put a pod on, and make a cold air intake..

Originally posted by JiMiH

I've heard that some RS Liberty owners drill holes in their air boxes, or maybe it was their air filters? :confused:

Could I do this on an R32 to increase air into the box?

Also, are the standard air boxes better than a pod on an R32? I remember seeing somewhere once that someone recommended leaving the panel filter in. Is this baloney?

Cheers! :D

I used my dremel cutting tool to cut a hole in the front facing panel. I have the K&N panel replacement filter.

Boxhead : it matters a great deal if you are sucking hot air. On the dyno you will see the power drop across the rev range without a cold air partition.

then here is my question, on a turbo car, why shoudl it matter where the air is coming from, if its going through an intercooler?

Follow the math:

Colder air = Better everything

If the intercooler is dropping the inlet air-temp 20 degrees C, wouldn't you rather have the temp drop from 40 to 20 than from 70 to 50?

Makes sense to me. I have a digital inlet air temp/ambient air temp and can definitely feel and SHOW the difference a hot day makes. So hot engine bay air is bad, m'kay...

:D

Hey JimiH

Forget the holes in your airbox those days are gone! the standard scoop is better flow than that,

Pod and partition like the other guys said.

The hotter the air in the hotter the intercooler temp will be as a certain intercooler might drop 30degrees rather than keep the temp at say 30 odd..

If I make up a big box out of tin, and then rivet the whole thing together, and contain a pod filter inside it, and then feed the cold air into the front of this tin box, will this work ok?

Is tin good for keeping hot air out?

Or should I insulate the inside of the box somehow?

Cheers!

Apparently, with the R31 at least, the airbox design is really crappy (there is a comparison article somewhere) and chokes proper airflow to the engine. I'd say that carries across into any standard R32, R33, etc. Anything is going to be better than the standard thing, even if it slightly hotter air. Its gotta be volume and coldness of the air - they are the two goals.

But colder air is of course better if you want to spend the money/effort riging up a front intake to take directly from outside. Make sure its well insulated as well or you're still going to have the problem of the pipe in turn heating the air from the engine bay.

you know that silver air conditioning tubing ..... could you cut that open to give silver sheets, and then line the tin on the inside of the cold air box, or maybe put it on the outside?

Just a bit extra to keep the heat out?

Or thermowrap the box?

Originally posted by JiMiH

you know that silver air conditioning tubing ..... could you cut that open to give silver sheets, and then line the tin on the inside of the cold air box, or maybe put it on the outside?

Just a bit extra to keep the heat out?

Or thermowrap the box?

correct me if i'm wrong, but aren't those aircon pipes for keeping the cold inside getting out, and not the other way around ?

i thought those mats (thin, blue one side, silver the other) they use in wood-framed 2 storey houses would be the stuff you're after.... keep the HEAT OUT ? not cold IN ?

Or am I dribbling faeces again ? anyone ?

if so, my gf works at an aircon place.... free ducting for all!

Strich9ine,

If a pipe can keep cold getting out then it will stop hot getting in. The pipes are reflective, therefore stopping heat transfer via radiative heating. A custom airbox with a cold air supply feed is a good idea, you can make the box out of whatever, aluminum/carbonfibre etc, but it is worth insulating the inside to stop the heat from the metal warming the intake air.

In a factory airbox I wouldn't bother with the extra insulation, the airbox is made of plastic and therefore doesn't transfer that heat very well, but at the same time it can't hurt, so why not.

See'ya:burnout:

Maybe you could line the inside of the box with the air con stuff, and then put the blue wood building stuff on the outside, and that would keep all cold air in and hot air out!

sweet! :D

now .... where's this air con place ur gf works at kym .... :lol: :rolleyes: :lol:

Originally posted by JiMiH

now .... where's this air con place ur gf works at kym .... :lol: :rolleyes: :lol:

I'll be looking at getting a POD early next year hey, and I'll need some of that reflective aircon stuff... when I grab some for me I'm sure I could hook you up with some hey :D i'll see how it goes..

....gotta actually have a car in my possesion first hey!

hahahaha :lol: Kym :rolleyes:

how good is induction noise! :rolleyes:

I think I'll get a K&N pod, and make a nice box up for it with some heat resistant stuff ... that'd be swweeeeet if you could find me some offcuts as well :rolleyes:

cheers dood! :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
×
×
  • Create New...