Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

cops can tell the series 2 has a gutted or mashed or hiflow cat, by the look of dark/brown patch just next to the exhaust. ive got the same problem on my silver r33, dark/brown spot near the zorst pipe. all in all looks good. what plugs and how much did they cost.

cops can tell the series 2 has a gutted or mashed or hiflow cat, by the look of dark/brown patch just next to the exhaust. ive got the same problem on my silver r33, dark/brown spot near the zorst pipe. all in all looks good. what plugs and how much did they cost.

no need to emphasis that point mate. :Paranoid:

iradiums were used. runs smooth like a baby's bottom.

We put a PFC in the car today as well. Car will be dyno tuned tomorrow to see how it goes...

daniel, tell me how the tuning goes tomorrow. hope u hit 250 odd rwkw's. =D

No probs Duc!!! I'll call you tomorrow nite to tell you how I went once I get home from Boostworx (tuner in Adelaide for those that dun know)...

Hi Daniel.

Nice pics! Where in Adelaide did you get your wheels reconditioned, how much did it cost and how long did it take? I'm thinking of doing the same for mine...

Hi Ionos, I got all 4 done for $200. But mine was an easy job as no painting was involved. My wheels were done by Jeff from Kwikfix. They come to you. All in all took about 4 hours for mine. He can only repair the wheel edges if the damage (scratches/gutter rash) is not too bad. If the spokes are damaged, he cannot repair. Also depends what your wheels are made off. If it is chrome, they must be acid dipped and only a specilised company like Adelaide wheel services can do things like that. Also, my wheels are unpainted solid aluminium alloys so they are easy to fix.

Give him a call and ask if he can do it: 0438022426

Cheers

Daniel

Nice pics guys, 2 vert tidy cars.

Just one thing though, did you ever catch the guy that scribbled on ya number plates :wassup:

Haha....LOL.......if we ever caught that bugger; We'll squeeze his balls till they pop out of his eye sockets!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...