Jump to content
SAU Community

MAX you'd pay for this bottom end (RB31DET)

mr_rbman
 Share

Recommended Posts

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted

OK guys, i've been given an oppurtunity to get what i think is a pretty cheap RB31DET bottom end (block).

What i'm asking is the maximum any of you guys would pay for this, here are the specs:

-VL RB30 NA Block, deck has been honed and the bores have been made 20 thou oversize for the bigger pistons (3.1Litre)

-Hypa-tech pistons brand new and 20 thou over size (makes it a 3060cc I believe) Their semi-forged and ceramic coated

-Rods are standard but have been shot peened and balanced to make them all the same weight etc.

-Crank is standard but has been ground and balanced.

-Block has been grub screwed for strength.

-Has all new Welch plugs etc and all new bearings

-All the oil and water galleries have been cleaned and the oil galleries have been modified for better use for turbo's? (not sure on that one either)

-ALL it needs is an oil pump, water pump, sump and head obviously which i already have to complete the bottom end, everything is together and has all been done by a reputable engine builder here in Adelaide.

So my question is how much would you pay and any other comments are more than welcome!

Fitzpatrick Speed Works Mentor

Fitzpatrick Speed Works

Posted
Posted

theres about $700 worth of machining in preping a new engine on a rb30, and buy the sounds of it around $700 in parts assuming they are only standard type pistons... So I wouldn't pay much more than $1200.

StockyMcStock Proficient

StockyMcStock

Posted
Posted

they will be standard cast pistons, only new. grub screws in the crank are for the rod lubricating oil journals on the big end, nissan drilled big long holes to connect them and then bashed aluminium plugs in there to plug em up so oil wouldn't leak out (duh) and lose pressure. after a lot of k's they can become loose so you drill em out, tap it and put a 1/4" grub screw in there. stake it and you're done!

it sounds exactly the same as my block, you're looking at $500-$700 of prep work by a machine shop and up to a grand again for rebuild parts (rings, bearings, pistons, seals etc) so i wouldn't pay more than $1300 for it.

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks guys. thats what i wanted to hear. the guy has offered me it for $750 so i'm going to go pick it up Tuesday

And by the way the pistons are 'HYPER TECH'

think i've heard of them before!

proengines Rising Star

proengines

Posted
Posted

There is a brand of pistons called Hypatec, they are hypereutectic pistons made by Right Way Piston Co. in Taiwan. theyre a nice piston but from what I know they dont make anything forged for the RB. There is a Hypatec liquid forged piston that is excellent but not available from what I know for an RB engine at all. They are made by pouring the liquid alloy into the die and forging it once it starts to solidify. This is the same way that Toyotas forged pistons are made and when you see some 1000hp-ish 2jz's they are awfully strong.

I've seen coated pistons for the RB30ET but not for the n/a engine. It's actually an anodising they use. Be careful if it has a slightly dished piston rather than a dome as you will have way to low compression.

It is a good buy, just depends if it fits your needs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Duncan
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By Duncan · Posted

      Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...