Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you're trying to save money, trading in your non turbo Skyline for a turbo Pulsar may not really change your Total Cost of Ownership, especially if you're going to modify it.

Turbos (especially the GTiR, which has a reputation for overheating) need a lot more TLC than a NA car.

If you're trying to save money, trading in your non turbo Skyline for a turbo Pulsar may not really change your Total Cost of Ownership, especially if you're going to modify it.

Turbos (especially the GTiR, which has a reputation for overheating) need a lot more TLC than a NA car.

Sorry, im not intending to buy the GTiR just yet. Im selling my skyline to finish off paying my car loan cuz i hate the interest rates. By saving on the interest rates (12%), i'll have enough money to buy a GTiR within six to eight months. By then my financials will all be soughted out, i just dont want to get a bad credit rating should i ever get so bad that i default on my loan.

dude pocket rockets go off, you can make them look good just like any car, just dont go OVER the top with cosmetics and it'll end up lookin' classy and not like somethin off a st corner in st kilda lol.

the bonnet is hideous and the rear looks very plain...

good motor ... glass gear box ... ugly styling ... performance potential ...

if you dont mind spending a bit of money to get her up and going nice as well as looking nice ... buy one. Otherwise just buy a n14 SSS or sumfink <---- they look ok and are fairly cheap on fuel, good luck finding one with low k's on it however!!!

seems to me your stuck between a rock and hard place ...

GTI-Rs are a great car. I had one for two years. a lot of the problems people mentioned are now not so bad. there are plenty of off the shelf performance parts for them now as they are much more popular than they were 2 or 3 years ago. in the two years I had mine it saw plenty of 7000rpm launches and never had a clutch or gearbox problem. also dragged it at WSID once and went to a few track days. I spent a fair bit of dough on the brakes and suspension as they go very hard stock but don't stop and turn so well. with some mods on brakes and suspension though it will be a very nice package. then spend a bit on power upgrades and it will be damn hard to beat.

don't expect it to be cheap, because the fact is it's AWD, and turbo. those two things tend to bump up associated running costs on any model.

very fun car to drive though, and a much better SR20 than found in silvias etc (ie. solid lifters, longer duration/higher lift cams, 440cc injectors, bigger turbo, quad throttles, 19mm conrod bearings and on and on.)

if that is what you have wanted i say go for it.

two words

Plough Understeer

Generally followed by snap oversteer. Not a good handling trait in anyones books.

Even with the white line suspension works package it will still tend to understeer and snap, it's just a little more controllable......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...