Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Still unclear about the AFM correction. Won't this simultaneously affect the tables for fuel as well?

BTW there is possibly a slight driveability improvement with my adjustments listed from yesterday.

You idiots!

Its called an airflow correction table because you are altering airflow values!

You are getting more knock by doing this because your car is running leaner and more prone to pinging.

If you wanna alter ignition, you have to alter the ignition table lol.

Edited by bmxwrx

ok so the airflow correction table is airflow voltage vs inj amount then?

well im not seeing much more knock than i was last time, but what i am seeing is more timing thrown in, so how does that work?

yeah he is right ive just realised its fuel correction table

oh well ill change mine back to what it was

so moving them up higher would have made it rich as all hell yeah ?

in the hacking a datalogit website though it talks about ign vs airflow,

ign vs battery power etc etc etc... ?

I dont think it talks anywhere about inj vs airflow..

also.. it would explain how sam "added some timing" to my pfc without having to change the ign maps.......

yeah he is right ive just realised its fuel correction table

oh well ill change mine back to what it was

so moving them up higher would have made it rich as all hell yeah ?

well looking at dataglogit (the app) it has a table for INJ airflow correction

but can't see any IGN airflow correction, so im not sure. The car felt better when i increased those values, and i saw more timiing on timing monitor so im kinda confused? but i guess it makes sense to be INJ correction instead.

can a powerfc guru confirm/deny ?

airflow correction just bends the signal coming from the airflow meter to the ecu. so it affects both injectors and ign timing.

i don't want to be rude, but with the very thin grasp of tuning you have i wouldn't be touching your handcontroller.

i need a retune, and lately i have been driving around with ignition correction of 4-5degrees advance with next to nothing knock, including heavy load upto the redline. it seems like a lot and im not that game to keep advancing until i get it tuned.

Is there any risks other than knocking if i keep advancing it? And how much have you guys advanced the timing from a base map without knocking?

nah thats fair enough ill just store my airflow correction values back to how they were and keep moving my ign tables up slowly. ive moved mine up a total of 10 deg with great results as far as driveability and response goes and also fuel economy has shifted to much more reasonable values, 400ks.

once i have datalogit (group buy) ill build a knock map and then tune the points that dont knock up

by the way thats the point of this hole thread, to learn some self tuning that doesnt effect the cars reliability, sure if its dangerous / not safe then don't do it, im not say to do stuff thats not safe. to me it seems pointless to have complete engine management only to never manage it, to merely watch and assume its doing its best, soemtime the best tuning is done on the road in real time, you can't simulate everything, well at least in a practical environment anyway?

this thread is merely about learning and trying stuff, hence the DIY title

The tuner where I'm getting my car done at on Saturday apparently mainly uses the airflow table to tune the car - he uses the FC datalogit. Apparently there are usually only a few ignition points he has to fix up but generally pretty good. He is the tuner that Sydney kid uses so I assume he is good

ill ask him if it would be ok to tune the light load areas (igntion) when driving and monitoring the knock

Edited by benl1981

I think the only thing we cant tune is A/F ratios, it would be a nice to be able to rig up a system inside the cabin to have one eye on the A/F ratios and tune it on light , medium and full loads. As long as we have one eye on the "knock" and all ears on ping, a careful backyard tuner should be ok.

Paul , interesting thread and a good read but i have one question . I use a knock link on my track car and notice depending on what fuel i fill up with ( same brand BP ultimate) the knock link sometimes picks up a few knocks on different tanks . You might get "good" batches of fuel and "bad" batches and while adjusting your mixtures to suit every tank is fantastic you might be chasing your tail for most of the time.

adam

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
×
×
  • Create New...