Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bigger booster to suit the 4 spot front brakes on the WGNC34?

Stock setup would probably have been fine - BM50 m/c but I have fitted a GTR one BM57 which will have slightly less travel but require more effort. Auto booster should be fine.

So is it worth getting a brake stopper for the M35? They're not exactly cheap...close to $200 for a big hunk of metal...

i was talking to scott about it.. actually doesnt seem to hard to make one.. maybe we will..

So is it worth getting a brake stopper for the M35? They're not exactly cheap...close to $200 for a big hunk of metal...

Get someone to push on the brake pedal, while you look at the firewall flex behind booster; I reckon it would be a worthwhile addition.

It could likely be done for less; might have to take a look.

Does anyone know if there is any difference between a Stagea Series 2 and a GT-t brake master cylinder.

They list different part numbers but both appear identical and are both BM50's?

I have searched previous posts from Darrin after his GT-t brake upgrade but I haven't found any information on potential differences.

Does anyone know the reason for an early DTV (disk thickness variation) on M35 brakes? Apparently a few people have had this problem already...

Thinking of putting new pads, machine the discs and check that the brake hub is not causing this...

Has anyone done all that and had the problem happening again?

Thanks in advance...

I'm trying to decide whether to replace all my rotors with slotted ones or just get them machined. They've got enough left in them to just get them machined I think, and the rears need it badly. I've got HPX pads sitting here ready to go in, was going to try and do it all at once.

Why Waste MONEY doing that on Rear,

i did mine & couldn`t tell difference in stock to GTR setup ,

with fronts just get Sloted rotors & braided lines good pads & BRAKESTOPPER,

you spend $300+ on calipers & another $300+ on Rotors ,& still need to pads LINES & brakestopper ,so $10000 on brakes lol.

i spent $500 doing all mine & VERY HAPPY ,

Fully appreciate what you're saying, but I priced up a new caliper and pads and for not much more I've managed to find some R33 GTST brembo discs, ferodo pads(both with about 1000miles use) and good used gtst calipers. I've already got a 330mm front discs conversion and DS2500 pads with R32GTR calipers. I was never expecting a great increase in stopping power from the rears but every bit helps.

I bought mine from a group buy but I can't remember who organised it.

According to the Cusco website they list the R33 same part number as WGNC34 but different from WGC34 (2wd) so R33 one should fit.

http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/Brake%20master%20cylinder%20stopper_nissan.pdf

Pretty sure I sent you the UAS stopper Bob.

I'm looking at getting new disks for my car, rather than seeing if I can machine the standard ones.

Just wondering what other people are running?

GSL supply RDA and DBA rotors, and looking at DBA, probably in either slotted or cross drilled.

Obviously the more you spend the better performance you're going to get, but I think with most things you get to a point where spending more money isn't worthwhile on a road car.

I've always heard that cross drilled rotors are a bad idea for street use, but DBA say this is no longer the case, and they've found the same or increased pad life with their new cross drilled XS rotors.

Like to hear other peoples experiences, although I'm pretty sure any decent slotted rotor will be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...