Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

post-94823-0-13662800-1343084266_thumb.jpgOk just a recap of my brake upgrades. We did a trial fit on my NM35 ARX-four and the R34gtt 4pistons calipers with a M14 bolts is a straight bolt on affairs. No modification. My dust shield is non existent so no issues there. Also the brake hose is a straight bolt-on.

The Stagea came with a longer bolt compare to the R34gtt and will be using the longer bolt come upgrade time. Next is to get a pair of rotors from R34gtt.

Unfortunately the factory alloys would not clear the calipers so I will be using a 15mm hub centric spacers. New alloys could fix this problem but not an option atmo.

Edited by M35

post-94823-0-13662800-1343084266_thumb.jpgOk just a recap of my brake upgrades. We did a trial fit on my NM35 ARX-four and the R34gtt 4pistons calipers with a M14 bolts is a straight bolt on affairs. No modification. My dust shield is non existent so no issues there. Also the brake hose is a straight bolt-on.

The Stagea came with a longer bolt compare to the R34gtt and will be using the longer bolt come upgrade time. Next is to get a pair of rotors from R34gtt.

Unfortunately the factory alloys would not clear the calipers so I will be using a 15mm hub centric spacers. New alloys could fix this problem but not an option atmo.

I also used the longer Stagea bolts when I fitted mine; I think the mounting points on the R34 must be a fair bit thinner.

They do protrude through the caliper mounting tag, but are still 4 mm away from the rotor.

Are you not using the rotors you have in the pic? They look to have a decent amount to meat left. You could always have them skimmed and slotted; would be cheaper than new rotors.

A 15mm spacer on the AR-X rims will actually put them at a nice position in the arches.

I also used the longer Stagea bolts when I fitted mine; I think the mounting points on the R34 must be a fair bit thinner.

They do protrude through the caliper mounting tag, but are still 4 mm away from the rotor.

Are you not using the rotors you have in the pic? They look to have a decent amount to meat left. You could always have them skimmed and slotted; would be cheaper than new rotors.

A 15mm spacer on the AR-X rims will actually put them at a nice position in the arches.

No not using the factory rotors, diameter is slightly out. 296x24mm for stagea. The pads sits slightly taller than the disc and there is a 6mm gap(3mm) either sides of disc to pads. So will have to use r34gtt rotors. Im hoping to get the conversion done all under $1k.

No not using the factory rotors, diameter is slightly out. 296x24mm for stagea. The pads sits slightly taller than the disc and there is a 6mm gap(3mm) either sides of disc to pads. So will have to use r34gtt rotors. Im hoping to get the conversion done all under $1k.

Ahh, gotcha, they're the AR-X rotors!

I thought it was a GT-t rotor! Carry on, pay no attention to me. :whistling:

You should be able to get a set of RDA slotted for around $300; I realise you're in NZ but as an example.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SLOTTED-Nissan-Skyline-R34-GTT-Front-Disc-Brake-Rotors-NEW-PAIR-WARRANTY-/110916761159?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d3277647

And a set of Remsa Pads for under $100 from GSL Rallysport (forum sponsors) these things are pretty impressive for the price.

Daleo and M35, do you need the rears too, do you think, or can we just stick with the M35 OEM rear brakes, when combined with the R34 GTt fronts? Do the R34 rears actually bolt up?

And you are using the M35 brake lines for the 4 pots, right?

M35, does your ARX have 17" wheels on it? I'm really keen on this setup myself, if I can get away with just spacers - quite like the later factory wheels, despite being only 17s.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Daleo and M35, do you need the rears too, do you think, or can we just stick with the M35 OEM rear brakes, when combined with the R34 GTt fronts? Do the R34 rears actually bolt up?

You'll be fine sticking with the OEM rears; the R34 rears don't bolt straight up. Yet.

And you are using the M35 brake lines for the 4 pots, right?

Standard lines go straight in; but I remove the double flare seat from the caliper.

M35, does your ARX have 17" wheels on it? I'm really keen on this setup myself, if I can get away with just spacers - quite like the later factory wheels, despite being only 17s.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Daleo and M35, do you need the rears too, do you think, or can we just stick with the M35 OEM rear brakes, when combined with the R34 GTt fronts? Do the R34 rears actually bolt up?

And you are using the M35 brake lines for the 4 pots, right?

M35, does your ARX have 17" wheels on it? I'm really keen on this setup myself, if I can get away with just spacers - quite like the later factory wheels, despite being only 17s.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Sorry I must correct that. My car is a PNM35 ARX-four with an 18' factory alloy rims. Im not worried about the rear brakes yet.

Edited by M35

Sorry I must correct that. My car is a PNM35 ARX-four with an 18' factory alloy rims. Im not worried about the rear brakes yet.

Just check the sliders, my rear brakes were seized, couldn't really tell either.

I only ask coz I replaced the brake pads a while ago, one had morn that much there was no pad left and it was grinding into the backing plate. I was told then to check the shaft for ply but totally forgot until i read these posts... i'll check it out now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...