Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all.. Just went in to my local Autobarn for some hose and enquired about brake pads for my S2 C34 Stagea and "it just so" happened that they had a set of Bendix ones, the are DB1170's but looking here I think they may have given me the wrong ones? Can anyone confirm if DB1170's are right for a 2000 model Stagea?

Hey all.. Just went in to my local Autobarn for some hose and enquired about brake pads for my S2 C34 Stagea and "it just so" happened that they had a set of Bendix ones, the are DB1170's but looking here I think they may have given me the wrong ones? Can anyone confirm if DB1170's are right for a 2000 model Stagea?

1. Return shitty pads

2. Order remsa pads from GSLRallysports (sp?)

3. Fit remsa pads

4. ?????????

5. Profit

Yeah I took them back, turned out to be bloody 200sx pads or some shit... Just gonna order some cheapy QFM ones from gsl

Remsa is only $10 more than the qfm hpx and are supposed to be a bit better again

Either way you can't go wrong

Dust?

As far as I'm concerned; if brakes don't dust up, you can't really expect anything to special out of them.

They are a bit dusty, nowhere near as dusty as TRW/Lucas pads, but if you had white wheels; well, you wouldn't anymore... Having said that; it just washes off with soapy water.

In any case, with slotted rotors, you have to expect some dust.

That's why my wheels are painted Toyota Tungsten, and not white. :ninja:

As far as I'm concerned; if brakes don't dust up, you can't really expect anything to special out of them.

They are a bit dusty, nowhere near as dusty as TRW/Lucas pads, but if you had white wheels; well, you wouldn't anymore... Having said that; it just washes off with soapy water.

In any case, with slotted rotors, you have to expect some dust.

That's why my wheels are painted Toyota Tungsten, and not white. :ninja:

Ah. I remember when I had white wheels.

But alas, that was two weeks ago, when I last washed it.

  • 3 weeks later...

For some of you who had fitted an R34gtt calipers and rotors(front only) on to their PNM35/NM35, can you tell me how much you had to grind off on the bottom steering knuckle/hub to clear the rotor? to stop it from rubbing. When I trial fitted my calipers and new rotor from r34gtt it rubs on the dust shield and the offending knuckle/hub. And when I tightened the wheel nuts on the rotor I can still slightly spin the rotor, so this indicated to me that only a few mm will need to be gring off? Obviously dust shields will need to be trim as well.

For some of you who had fitted an R34gtt calipers and rotors(front only) on to their PNM35/NM35, can you tell me how much you had to grind off on the bottom steering knuckle/hub to clear the rotor? to stop it from rubbing. When I trial fitted my calipers and new rotor from r34gtt it rubs on the dust shield and the offending knuckle/hub. And when I tightened the wheel nuts on the rotor I can still slightly spin the rotor, so this indicated to me that only a few mm will need to be gring off? Obviously dust shields will need to be trim as well.

They clear the knuckle fine; it the dust shield that is the issue.

I cut the dust shield away almost completely; if you rotate the wheel with everything fitted you'll get a witness mark on the dust shield. Cut a couple of mm inside the mark.

Either that or measure the id of the back of the rotor, and transfer that dimension onto the dust shield. Cut accordingly.

They clear the knuckle fine; it the dust shield that is the issue.

I cut the dust shield away almost completely; if you rotate the wheel with everything fitted you'll get a witness mark on the dust shield. Cut a couple of mm inside the mark.

Either that or measure the id of the back of the rotor, and transfer that dimension onto the dust shieldy. Cut accordingly.

Yeah I rotated the rotor and it scored the dust shield nicely so i can cut nicely around it. The new rotor will also need to be skimmed before it gets fitted on. The r34 back ID rotor is alot shallower compare to the stagea rotors. It just Im not sure how much is needed to grind off the knucke. Will it weaken it? It seems ARX-four maybe has a different offsets or knuckle/hub assembly?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...