Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Which rear twin piston calipers run the 14mm bolts as against the 12mm R33 rears.

I tried to swap the R33 calipers to the rear of my M35 & found the bolts too small. (12 >14mm) Looking for a cheap upgrade for the rear brakes.

Are the R34 GTR rears running the 14mm bolt ?

Which rear twin piston calipers run the 14mm bolts as against the 12mm R33 rears.

I tried to swap the R33 calipers to the rear of my M35 & found the bolts too small. (12 >14mm) Looking for a cheap upgrade for the rear brakes.

Are the R34 GTR rears running the 14mm bolt ?

I think someone on the forum makes a sleeve for the bolt so that they can run other brakes?

I make the sleeves, but that won't help you run the 33/34 rears on your M35, they have a different spacing and won't fit without an adapter bracket. Either just run the fronts, with the stock rears, or find some 350z Brembo rears, as they bolt on.

Hello everyone I'm selling my Brembo brakes they come off a 350z so they bolt straight onto the m35 they come with brand new dimpled and slotted rotas and brand new bendix brake pads for 1300 if you have any inquiries don't hesitate to contact me on 0412638517

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm in the process of installing R34 front calipers coupled with 300mm DBA Rotors.

The standard M14 bolts off the stagea fit but were only grabbing 1/3 of the thread so I ordered R34 bolts.

When fitting the calipers up I noticed the were fouling on the front of the rotor.

I believe I am missing the spacers that slip over where the bolts fit.

I'm in the process of installing R34 front calipers coupled with 300mm DBA Rotors.

The standard M14 bolts off the stagea fit but were only grabbing 1/3 of the thread so I ordered R34 bolts.

When fitting the calipers up I noticed the were fouling on the front of the rotor.

I believe I am missing the spacers that slip over where the bolts fit.

have you got a pic? do you just mean the bolts are too long and go through the hub and then all the way to the disc? If so, replace with a shorter bolt (any bolt shop should have something to match, even Bunnings might), just make sure it is grade 8.8 or higher

have you got a pic? do you just mean the bolts are too long and go through the hub and then all the way to the disc? If so, replace with a shorter bolt (any bolt shop should have something to match, even Bunnings might), just make sure it is grade 8.8 or higher

Having trouble loading pics atm, bolts I have are fine in length.

The part that is fouling on the Disc is the inside/front of the Caliper where the disc feeds into it.

There is like 5mm clearance for the disc when I mount the calipers.

I'm starting to think I have mismatched the discs.

? 5mm clearance is not fouling!

Hey Bob, I just re-read my previous post.....5mm should be plenty 2.5 mm either side, if the rotor was centered with the caliper, but thats not what I'm getting.

The inside face of the caliper hits the front face of the rotor, it doesn't sit centered like it should.

All the pics of R34 calipers I have found dont show any type of spacer like the standard stagea calipers. The spacer fits between the hub mount ahd the caliper where the bolts fit.

Anyways, gonna give it another try this week end, maybe I don't have the rotor pushed in far enough, I'm thinking if I fit the wheel and tighten the wheel nuts it will bed the rotor as far in as it will. Remove the wheel and try fitting the caliper again.

Yep it really sounds like you have the wrong disc for the caliper, ie the offset of the disc to the hub is incorrect.

If it is out by a mm or 2 and I couldn't return/replace the discs I would space it out with a washer (in fact the d2 kits come with shims for that purpose)

Yep it really sounds like you have the wrong disc for the caliper, ie the offset of the disc to the hub is incorrect.

If it is out by a mm or 2 and I couldn't return/replace the discs I would space it out with a washer (in fact the d2 kits come with shims for that purpose)

Thanks Duncan, I originally thought about doing this but the washers I had were way too thick.

I'll have another dig around in my 'random stuff' box and see if I can find some thinner washers to suit & hopefully post up some pics for good measure..

OK, so I have confirmed I have the incorrect rotors for my caliper set up.

I was originally told the calipers were R33 calipers and with this info ordered rotors to suit.

I have since found out that the bolts are M14 indicating they are R34 calipers........DAMMIT

The rotors are at best 300mm x 30mm - the pads only partially cover the disc.

I need 310mm x 30mm, time to dig out the invoice and see if I can return them and swap them out for the correct rotors.

Very frustrating seeing as the stagea has been on stands for over 2 months now, I just want this done so I have a car while I get the mazda's issues sorted.

Looking like at least another week before I get this sorted

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...