Jump to content
SAU Community

Gas Struts For Bonnets

Roy

By Roy,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
Posted
Top Secret sell bonnet dampers... Check out those prices  ;)

http://www.topsecretjpn.com/bonnetdamper.shtml

I've seen bonnet dampers on Skylines Downunder before. There was a big thread on it.

Roy, if you do decide to go ahead with this, I will be interested. See, for me, it's not so much laziness to use the bonnet holder stick. Whenever working on the car, everynow and then I might bump into the stick. I keep thinking to myself, one day, the bonnet is going to fall and chop my arms off, or break my neck. It's more for the convenience of the bonnet just staying.

They were much cheaper on Skylinesdoownunder because they were made by a non gucci jap company. I think they were somewher around $200.

Like i said, if you guys go ahead with this, i'm interested.

MANWHORE Grand Master

MANWHORE

Posted
Posted
I don't see why you'd pay that much.

Why not just get some generic ones from a wrecker? and use those.

Surely they can't be too much different than ones that would keep other non-automotive related stuff open and be much cheaper.

The thing i'm looking for is one that is straight bolt on. That is, no holes drilled etc. Coz the area where the strut is located on the r33 is very very tight, and would be difficult to retrofit one myself. That's why I'd prefer to pay $200 for something that bolts straight onto the stock bracket.

courier33 Enthusiast

courier33

Posted
Posted

The ones on the boot wouldnt have enough throw or pressure to lift anything the length of the bonnet, although I think the idea of having one each side to equalize the forces would have to be better on the hinges than having just the one strut.

tikki169 Community Regular

tikki169

Posted
Posted

I've done this for a Golf 2. Not a hassle at all. The best place to get the shocks from is froma Honda's boot (sedan type) use one on each end and you can but the ball hinges from repco or supercheap if I remember correctly. Cost one hell of alot less.

I've seen a line done with longer ones off of a hatches bootlid, a little trickier but doable to.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

these were all the rage at the Tein stand at Tokyo Autosalon this year. i didn't really see what all the fuss was about but having tein dampers hold up your bonnet certainly is a nice wank.

The real worry Troy is how often your bonnet must need to be open that you are thinking about this!

POOMBAH Proficient

POOMBAH

Posted
Posted

They do lose their lift after a while, so you'd be looking at replacing 'em every few years or so depending on how long they last.

My sister bought a Citroen Xsara that has a gas-strut for the bonnet an it stopped working after 2 years. In Citroens wisdom they never added a manual bonnet stay, so if you need to check the engine you need someone to keep the bonnet up for you!

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

Roy's been checking out cefiros that's why he wants them :P

POOMBAH - That's Xsaras for you. My cefiro's struts are original from what I can see and they hold the bonnet up unless it's windy, on a slope or I hang a lamp from it (they're just on their way out). 16 years oh yeah Nissan.

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
They do lose their lift after a while, so you'd be looking at replacing 'em every few years or so depending on how long they last.

My sister bought a Citroen Xsara that has a gas-strut for the bonnet an it stopped working after 2 years. In Citroens wisdom they never added a manual bonnet stay, so if you need to check the engine you need someone to keep the bonnet up for you!

sounds like quite a shit car. my soarer has them and it's bonnet is huge and bloody heavy and they work fine. Car is just over 10 years old.

POOMBAH Proficient

POOMBAH

Posted
Posted

hehe yeah, that's women for ya, they buy cars more on looks most of the time.

Yeah the Xsara is only 3 years old and has so many problems.

I always give her a good ribbing about how my 11 year old japanese car still runs a treat.

Frankly, my beat up old '89 seca runs better hahah

hmmm.. might take the 'ol corolla for a spin rite now...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...