Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Any chance I could slip in a buy for the GTR mate :)  ??

I am currently working on the R32GTR and R33GTR Road kits, bit of shock valve engineering required. Nearly finished on the shock dyno, maybe tomorrow/Sunday. I will post up a new Group Buy thread for each as soon as I am finished.

I have a lot to do;

1. R33GTST Road = done

2. R32GTST Road = done

3. Stagea S1 & S2 Road = done

4. R32GTR Road = in progress

5. R33GTR Road = in progress

6. R34GTT Road = commenced, awaiting prices

7. R33GTST Circuit = commenced

8. R32GTST Circuit = commenced

9. R32GTR Circuit = engineering in progress

10. R33GTR Circuit = engineering in progress

11. R34GTT Circuit = not yet started

12. R33GTST Drag = commenced, awaiting prices

13. R32GTST Drag = commenced, awaiting prices

14. R32GTR Drag = engineering in progress

15. R33GTR Drag = engineering in progress

16. R34GTT Drag = not yet started

17. R33GTST Drift = not yet started

18. R32GTST Driftt = commenced

:) cheers ;)

Edited by Sydneykid
  • Replies 714
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

The first kits have started to flow out, this one is going to Needajapcar;

Skyline_Kit.jpg

;) cheers ;)

Edited by Sydneykid

Hey guys.

No probs buying here - I received my bilsteins within 3 days of paying - very happy.

I'll be comiong back for the rest very shortly.

Thanks for organising this one SK - youv'e done well :(

is castor adjustment kit,    replacement tension rods?  or replacement bushes with off-centre holes in them?

Replacement caster bushes, I would never ever use spherical bearings in a road suspension kit. Bottom right in the above picture.

:( cheers :D

Replacement caster bushes, I would never ever use spherical bearings in a road suspension kit.  Bottom right in the above picture.

:( cheers  :)

are you sure you can get +7deg castor or more from off-centre bushes? Do you have wheel alignment specs from your test car?

I had to wind out my castor rods a good 5cm or so to get +8deg castor on my R32, I always thought bushes could only give you +2-3 degrees or so.

are you sure you can get +7deg castor or more from off-centre bushes?    Do you have wheel alignment specs from your test car?

I had to wind out my castor rods a good 5cm or so to get +8deg castor on my R32,  I always thought bushes could only give you +2-3 degrees or so.

As always, every car is different, I have done wheel alignments on 4 X R33GTS's recently. The best one had 5.5 degrees standard on the LHS and the worst one had 4.4 degreees standard on the RHS. So obviously getting >7 out of the one with 5.5 was easy. But getting 7 out of the one with 4.4 was impossible, a bit over 6 was the most I could get. But it sure as hell felt a lot better.

:)cheers :(

Have you got any recommendations for HICAS? It's really unpredictable that sometimes it helps but sometimes it makes my driving line bad.

Could you explain how it works and any cares should be taken when taking it off?

Are those whitelines you supply progressive springs?

Rears are progressive, so that they stay trapped. Fronts don't need to be progressive. Plus I wouldn't use progressive rate springs in the front of a Skyline, they are too front weight biased (RB's are heavy). It would make them non linear in their front end response to steering inputs.

Have you got any recommendations for HICAS? It's really unpredictable that sometimes it helps but sometimes it makes my driving line bad.

Could you explain how it works and any cares should be taken when taking it off?

Not really a good discussion for a Group Buy thread. This is a much discussed subject, plenty of posts on it. I suggest you do a search "Sydneykid" and "HICAS" . Thatshould answer most of your questions, if you need more info post it up in the Suspenson section. I will do my best to answer.

:D cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

Delivered to a Brisbane address, I'd like to order;

BNF24Z $234

BNR11XZ $234

KCA331 $119

KCA347 $132

KCA348 $281

KCA349 $114

= $1114

Would you accept a Western Union money transfer which would require picking up?

I am unable to transfer to an Aus bank acct at present.

Hi SK,

Bob & Vojtek have done some custom suspension work for me on previous cars, so I know I'm dealing with the best. Would I be able to deal with them directly for supply & fit or would going through yourself be more appropriate. Don't want to step on any toes here !

Thanks for your support.

Delivered to a Brisbane address, I'd like to order;

BNF24Z $234

BNR11XZ $234

KCA331 $119

KCA347 $132

KCA348 $281

KCA349 $114

= $1114

Would you accept a Western Union money transfer which would require picking up?

I am unable to transfer to an Aus bank acct at present.

This Group Buy is arranged through Jamex and the only way I could get the good prices was to make it very simple for them. That's why it's direct deposit only. You can drop into your local bank branch and they will be able to do a paper based transfer internationally.

:P cheers :)

Is it better to get these springs if we want to lower the car over King springs etc.....?

Cheers,

Mark.

Hi Mark if you already have Kings low springs then the rest of the kit will suite OK. I have designed the valving in the shocks with a window and the Kings low springs fit in that window. Kings super lows don't.

If you don't already have springs, then the ones in the kit are the best.

:P cheers :)

Hi SK,

Bob & Vojtek have done some custom suspension work for me on previous cars, so I know I'm dealing with the best. Would I be able to deal with them directly for supply & fit or would going through yourself be more appropriate. Don't want to step on any toes here !

Thanks for your support.

Whiteline don't do fitting in house any more, they stopped a couple of months ago. PM me if you want to discuss further.

:P cheers :)

For those that need them, the Dust Cover and Bump Stop kit is now inlcuded in the Group Buy and is on the price list. The cost is $51 per pair (exc freight), so you will need 2 pair for a car set (one pair for the front shocks and one pair for the rear shocks).

:P cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...