Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 714
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Havent got my cone note or the parts I orderd yet Garry, Sent you a PM, please reply. can you please make sure you send me the con note cuz I want to make sure to be at home when it arrives.

Cheers

Chinthana

got the rest of my stuff today :no:

fitted it all this afternoon but haven't had a chance to go for a decent drive yet, feels good so far can't wait till this weekend

Got my stuff yesterday too..delivered at 8am!

Was just wondering what grooves the shocks should be set at front and rear for the 350/340 settings?

And also, how involved is the process of changing the height later on down the track once everythings installed...is it like completely re installing the suspension?

Will installing springs/shocks affect my camber/caster settings?

dezz - The circlips come in the 350/340 position. (SK's post here)

ah k sweet thanks

anyone got any pics of there car with the shocks set lower than 350/340??

also, anyone got a rough idea on what it cost them to get the springs/shocks installed by a suspension place?

springs and shocks are easy to install...

ideally two people make it much much easier, but i've done it just by myself before.

a set of axle stands and a trolley jack with sockets and spanners.

I'd have no idea where to even begin...I thought you needed spring compressors etc as well...

I'll probably just end up booking it in to a pro so they can do the alignment etc all at the same time

Still after pics of anyone who's installed them at lower settings...

Need some clarification guys...

There are 2 different shocks, the short ones with the extra piece of metal hanging off the side, and the longer ones (that come tied down)

On both sets (so front and rear) the clips on mine are in the same position.

From top down they look like this

-

-

CLIP

-

-

-

shouldn't one set have the clip on a different groove to the other set to acheive the 350/340 settings?

Need some clarification guys...

There are 2 different shocks, the short ones with the extra piece of metal hanging off the side, and the longer ones (that come tied down)

On both sets (so front and rear) the clips on mine are in the same position.

From top down they look like this

-

-

CLIP

-

-

-

shouldn't one set have the clip on a different groove to the other set to acheive the 350/340 settings?

mmm good queation, I think since front shockers are shorter than the rear one, it shouldnt be a problem. Im getting my shockers today, let you know how mine is.

Cheers

I'd have no idea where to even begin...I thought you needed spring compressors etc as well...

I'll probably just end up booking it in to a pro so they can do the alignment etc all at the same time

Still after pics of anyone who's installed them at lower settings...

Hey Dezz, i finished mine a few weeks ago and i have it set at 340/330mm. I will post a pic tonight for you.

Thanks, Mike.

Hey Dezz, i finished mine a few weeks ago and i have it set at 340/330mm. I will post a pic tonight for you.

Thanks, Mike.

thanks heaps mate that'd be great!

What size rims do you have?

looks awesome mate. You're making me want to sell my rims and get some TE37's right now!

Do you have any rubbing issues with those offsets, at that ride height?

Anyone able to explain how to move the circlips into another groove?

yeh i had to get my guards lipped/rolled but thats about it.

To move the circlip grooves, you will need a pair of circlip pliers to make it easy. you might be able to flick the circlip down by using a screwdriver or two but it will be a pain in the ass. much easier just using the proper tool.

Mike.

Need some clarification guys...

There are 2 different shocks, the short ones with the extra piece of metal hanging off the side, and the longer ones (that come tied down)

On both sets (so front and rear) the clips on mine are in the same position.

From top down they look like this

-

-

CLIP

-

-

-

shouldn't one set have the clip on a different groove to the other set to acheive the 350/340 settings?

The circlips are set in the 350/340 positions out of the box.

:blink: cheeers :P

HKS-R33 tells me that to acheive the 340/330 height he set them as follows

'Hey mate, my rears are in the second from the bottom groove and my fronts are in the 3rd from the bottom groove.'

Are you saying his info is incorrect because if they're set at 350/340 out of the box, wouldnt they be on different grooves front and rear?

I just re read through the entire 12 pages of this thread, and still couldnt find a post explaining the height that relates to each groove....I know everyones saying that the shocks come in the 350/340mm position, but wouldn't it be a hell of a lot easier if we knew the height each groove acheived?

Both my front and rear shocks have the circlip in the groove 3rd from the bottom. HKS-R33 has told me his are installed at 340/330, and that his circlips are in the following positions:

Rear: Second from the bottom (1 below where mine are now)

Front: Third from the bottom (same as mine)

He tells me he had to have the height re adjusted after getting it wrong the first time, so you'd assume he got it right the second time...and the photo of his car above do seem to sit lower than most, and very even...

Could we please hear the height acheived by each groove (for both front and rear) and which grooves the circlips SHOULD be in out of the box for 350/340? I think it would clear it up for everyone very simply.

Also this post

The answer is it depends on how much you want to lower it. Following is the camber correction required for various ride heights;

This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard;

Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear

360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters

350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit

340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits

Has anyone lowered it to the ~340/~330 height with 1 rear camber kit?

hey SK

I'm after the sway bars for front and back for a GTST. I havent looked do u need bushes for these?

IS that cool. Let me know and I will send payment ASAP...cos I want them ASAP :sleep:

Thanks

KJ

I agree with Dezz, neither I couldnt find any info for ride height for the grooves,I looked in to R33 Gtr forum with no luck either. I got my shocks on Monday and they are currently set to the third groove from the top.

--

--

Circlip Groove

--

--

--

I need to set the ride height 355/345 (since myine is GTS4). Garry, could you please advise which groove it should be set in to? so once I get my springs and other stuff I can install it.

Cheers

i have an IKEYA adjustable lower arm for camber & caster rod (as one unit), the car is being set up for race.

I would like some rear craddle bushes, a recomended set of adjustable Stabiliser bars to suit, and a full sperical rod-end swaybar link kit.

and the rest of the bushes needed to replace the remaining std bushes in the car. Will mainly be at Winton & phillip island, calder on occasion.

can you help me SK?? please PM if you could. Thanks

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To plug the hole. The engine plant may not have known whether the car it was going into had a gauge or not. It was a long time ago and the integrations might not have been fully modern. Or they might not have cared because the extra inventory and processes to save a few cents on the sender might have cost more anyway. But please tell me you are not still confusing the idea of a pressure gauge sender, and an oil pressure light switch. The switch will be out there. In a separate hole. Probably with only one wire running to it. Running the light.
    • Blower needs to go low on the exhaust side, displacing the AC and PS, which you have to decide whether you want to keep and how and where to relocate if you do. Electric option for PS is, at least, helpful. Sadly, there is no workable 12V electric AC of any value. Whilst the blower is the last compression step before the throttle, and so it might seem a good idea to have it near the inlet manifold (as mentioned above), you probably want it to go through an intercooler first, so, having it on the opposite side of the car facilitates that air flow path. The turbo discharges into the blower, so proximity of the turbo's compressor outlet to the blower's inlet is nice. But then you might want to intercool that too, before boosting it again....which would probably be a ball ache. Routing pipes out to the front and back could be a bit shit. If there was room for (at least) a small (but preferably larger) water to air core on that side, then that would probably be the best approach. I guess a reasonable alternative would be to locate the blower where the alternator is (more or less, associated with the inlet manifold, per Matt's thought), and somehow incorporate a water to air core into the manifold, sort of like they do for modern blown V8s. The big difference here though is that those V8s have only the one throttle (upstream the blower) and only the one compression step (the blower) and no need for too much in the way of bypass/blowoff valves. Whereas in a twin charged 6, you do need to think about one or two bypass valves associated with the 2 compressors and you would prefer to have the intercooling done before the air has to pass through the throttle. You'd like the throttle to work approx the same no matter what the compression is doing. But if it is located in hot air stream before a cooler, then sometimes the air will be real hot, sometimes it will be quite cool, and the throttle mapping/response will be quite different between those two cases. The throttle, if sized for hot air, would be too large for cold conditions. It's all a ball ache.
    • Package SC on exhaust side. Remote mount turbo. Still a fair bit of room when you get creative on the inlet side of the motor too. Especially if you can get really creative with the welding, and effectively build it into the bottom of the inlet manifold. Would definitely take some design work, and some trial and error, to make sure flow works well still! Might be easier to just start with the Nissan March though... All the work is already done for you...
    • I'll sit down and get a post together 😁
    • The factory oil pressure sender is no longer in the car that's what is confusing me. In the Taarks adapter I have an aftermarket Bosch style pressure/temp sender and the factory temp sender only. Oil pressure is perfect. Where does the factory oil temp sender go to if there were never any gauges? Why was it there from the factory?
×
×
  • Create New...