Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, Ive just got this question that i would like to know what peolpe think.

Over the last few weeks ive been pouring ALOT of money into my skyline r33.

And its still SLOW. My mate has a Sik Mazda Rx3 rotary. It is SOOOO fast and i just cant help but feel so sad when i drive my little skyline :huh:

Its the best rotar and its 10 times as quick a smy skyline for 10 times as less money spent.

So im thinking of selling my skyline and buying a rotary powered car.

CHeers Rodney.

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

how much have you spent? what year is your car and what year is the rotor? no matter what car you have there will always be someone with more power and someone who is faster. the rotary is proably an 1986 rx3 so its old as the hills and rotaries ive heard are very expensive to fix. stick with what you have and enjoy it id say

i can't see how they can be A LOT cheaper in mild mod, both need bolt on turbo and other supporting gear, rotor start getting "cheaper" once u do the engine internal as they have far less component

and u are comparing a R33 to a RX3??? OMG....

Try throw a RX3 round the track compared to your skyline... And the rotor loves the fuel, with todays petrol prices its crazy! And I thought the line is crazy on the fuel, well the rotor will chew tones more!

But its down to what you want, sure there quick, power to weight!!! But if your after some comfort and cruising, with power on tap, the skyline is a great car

Hey Rodney, dont worry man its ok, but seriously i understand how you feel, but maybe you just need to learn how to drive first? i mean when was the last time you even hit boost in your car, 2 maybe 3 months ago lol?

Nah man peolpe are right, You can't compare a skyline to an 1974!!!! Rx3, i mean rotars are just straight out quick and skylines are just plain old slow in comparison!

Just kidding, there both top cars, but you should have told me you were thinking of buying a rotar man, i know some sweet rx3's for sale bro.

Cheers Paul

My house mate has a Mazda 1600 Ute with a series 7 RX7 engine, A modified TV51 Truck Turbo.. And it makes 400hp@the rears conservativley, it uses less fuel then my GTR and the whole thing could be built for the price of a r33 skyline... It reliable doesnt burn oil and can be driven daily and beats every road bike that has been up against it.... The only thing it doesnt do so well is go around corners... depends what u want....

Moral of the story.. a Fully built rotor is way cheaper up front and about the same for on going costs.

The same could be said for an old TC/TD/TE Cortina or LJ Torry etc.

250 or 302/308 with a turbo or two bolted on the side of it.

Cheap.

I grew up around rotors, its what initially got me in to the turbo scene.

They use fuel, there is no doubt about that.

NA R33, if your mates rotor is using less fuel than the gtr then something is wrong with the gtr. :huh:

Edited by Cubes

See, I told you so..

The old TE Cortinas weighed in at ~1200kg's.

Kick shiet all over the rotor with a nice little turbs bolted on the side. :P

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2624/article.html

Edited by Cubes
NA R33, if your mates rotor is using less fuel than the gtr then something is wrong with the gtr. :D

Lol, no i think its just the 6000rpm avaiavlable for off boost driving.. so around town its pretty cool, and its to fast to fang everywhere.

On that note, when my skyline was non turbo, i think i had more fun in it, simply because i could give it hell everywhere?? dunno...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...