Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just got a front pair of these shocks revalved for stiffer springs etc, and they are AMAZING.

ive had japanese coilovers (tanabe) before, ive borrowed my mates cheap and nasty HSDs and now ive got bilsteins, they are so much better than anything else ive had.

both more comfortable and handle heaps better

cant wait to take em out to the track!

Edited by salad

if this group buy is still on can i check the availability of the front Hduty swaybar - BNF28 and the rear XHduty swaybar - BNR26X

is there a kit which includes the bushes and links aswell?

if this group buy is still on can i check the availability of the front Hduty swaybar - BNF28 and the rear XHduty swaybar - BNR26X

is there a kit which includes the bushes and links aswell?

PM sent

:no: cheers :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi sydneykid

im interested in these and can i have sum prices inc shipping to melbourne PM me..

-Front & Rear Springs (im looking to lower my car only 25mm front and rear coz i have 19inch" rims and any lower it will rub. so would u supply lower 25mm springs?)

-Front Bilstein & Rear Bilstein Shocks

cheers

bill

SK i have lowered my car quiet abit...

Center of rim to gaurd on both front and rear is 295mm, and im not exaggerating at all lol

I am goin to grab a few bits off you to go with some whiteline stuff i have (mainly after some traction so adjustin the camber as much as i can), is bein that low going to damage anythin (apart from my kit and exhaust.. hahaha)??? I noticed better handlin when it was 10-15mm higher but i prefer the low look.

SK i have lowered my car quiet abit...

Center of rim to gaurd on both front and rear is 295mm, and im not exaggerating at all lol

I am goin to grab a few bits off you to go with some whiteline stuff i have (mainly after some traction so adjustin the camber as much as i can), is bein that low going to damage anythin (apart from my kit and exhaust.. hahaha)??? I noticed better handlin when it was 10-15mm higher but i prefer the low look.

Shoot, where to start............just a short list of stuf that your are risking;

1. Drive shaft breakage is possible

2. CV joints will wear very fast (they are also soaking up extra power due to the extreme angles)

3. Steering tie rods (front and rear) are under extreme loads

4. Every single bush in the front and rear suspension will wear out excessively fast

5. The strut towers will eventually crack (both front and rear) due to the lack of bump absortion

6. The rear cradle will crack around the upper and lower control arm joints also due to the lack of bump absorbtion

7. You will suffer poor traction, so it won't stop or accelerate anywhere near its potential

8. The front and rear windscreens are stressed members, so they will eventually crack as well

9. Every electronic component is being subject to higher than its design levels of NVH, so they will eventually start to fail one by one

10. Your chiropractor will make a small fortune fixing your lower back problems

That's pretty much the major items, there are quite a few minor ones of course, but I think you get the drift.

:D cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid
Alright Gary... whats the lowest i can be without stressing the suspension etc too much?? :O Dont tell me 330mm coz thats heaps hahaha

I use camber correction as the first measuring stick as to how much a car can be lowered. When the camber gets grossly excessive, then you know you have lowered it too far. This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard;

Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear

360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters

350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit

340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits

Using that rule of thumb, 340 mm front and 330 mm rear is a low as I would go, keeping in mind that they handle best at around 350/340. So even at 340/330 you are sacrificing handling for looks.

:thumbsup: cheers :no:

Edited by Sydneykid

SK,

will the shocks work on standard gtst springs? and just to confirm that they are height adjustable? what's the advantage of going to the whiteline springs also?

i want something that i can adjust about 20mm lower, but put back to standard if i need to

but i also want the ride to be comfortable as this car probably won't ever see track work

and finally, just confirming that the price is for a pair? so a set of 4 shocks will be around $1140?

thanks,

Warren

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey crew, Failed my WOF cause of a lower control arm, and I've decided to hit both arms, and also the compression rods at the same time(seems they're gonna be the most likely upcoming failure points from some discussions with the lads over on the G35 reddit). I've looking at these form Z1:  https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-compression-rod-p-40716.html https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-suspension/hayaku-automotive/hayaku-g35-front-lower-control-arm-p-40674.html I asked Z1 if they'd work as it's the same platform, just RHD vs LHD. I basically got told "Lol dunno". Specifically they aren't aware of any difference but can't guarantee fitment as they haven't done it on a 350GT. So guess I'm asking is if there is any issues with using 2005 G35 coupe suspension parts on a 2005 350GT coupe? Orginally I thought it could be something in the way of the arms that each control arm is designed to be positioned around, but that'd be an engineering nightmare for Nissan needing two different shaped control arms 😅
    • ^ This. The mode door actuator is a common failure, as is the actuator and/or the actual valve for the coolant flow control valve. I also don't know how available the mode door actuator is these days. I've been meaning to look into it and get one from wherever is possible, to keep in the shed for the rainy day when mine eventually fails. Anyway, the advice to you is to search the usual NOS part supply places, or even just go to Nissan and see what they list.
    • Have you got a pic of the actuator? My guess is that unit has failed internally and was flopping around, so the previous engineer who owned it forced it to be fully open to cold air (blocking the heater core path). As far as you can tell, is anything else wrong in the system? Likely you just need a new actuator (not sure how available they are) and then "installation is the reverse of disassembly"
    • I'm happy with the Lsailt unit that I put in, it puts full Android on the top screen so you can run whatever Nav and other Apps you want, while still existing inside the factory functionality like automatic reverse cams, audio input switching, retains factory bluetooth etc. Not cheap and the install was moderate (not simple, not hard) Yours is a V36 not V37 though right?
    • Yeap, all the NC's that I originally looked at that had a hard top were PRHT, which makes the roof line look horrible, hence why I said nope to them My only caveat for another MX5 was it needed to have a hard top, and initially I didn't think you could get a detachable hard top for the NC,  like my NB had Again, a big thanks to Matty for helping me source the detachable hard top for my little girl, they are as rare as hens teeth in Australia, and the few people who have them, keep them Also to Greg, for initially pointing me in the NC direction NC PRHT 🤢🤮 Not mine (I really should take more photos of my car), but a NC with the detachable hard top 😁 To me, the difference in how the detachable hard top roof line looks, and how it actually follows the bodies lines, like they do on NA's and NB's, is chalk and cheese compared to the bulbous looking PRHT  
×
×
  • Create New...