Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am currentlly using 7's... Found them to be a bit iffy....

Until i did my front mount... Now their tops...

But i feel with a bit more boost i will have to go up a range again due to heat....

  • Replies 333
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

well guys.... its done. I've bolted the turbo back on...and it was a complete....

SUCCESS~!!!

I managed to take it for a bit of a run but its hardcause its pouring rain here and I can't hook up, but with little load cause its spinning, I am now reaching full boost at 3400rpm.

Starts spooling at about 2500rpm, and FULL BOOST BY 3400 f**kING RPM

great eh?

Car feels about 500000 times better. I just can't wait till it dries up and I can get some traction.

The shed we did the work in is a large circle so they can work on trucks and truck can turrn around in etc and its bitumen... So yeah... To celebrate, I cut some rings in the wet cause i was happy... oh and at full boost at 3400rpm... :D:):O

yeah, anyway, this setup really goes well now. LKike really really well. Just need a bit more boost and some better fuel and I should have as much power as I want..

so yeah - time for some "8" heat range plugs, a bit more boost, and some water methanol injection.

Any questions??

:O

f**ken happy right here...........

That's brilliant. I suspected it would liven things up a fair amount response wise. Let us know how it goes with the top end power. Hopefully the power won't "nose over" and die in the last 1000rpm.

What is full boost at this point?

How does it feel to drive? Progressive or coming on with a rush?

So its basicly a hiflow now..

No. Its a Garret GT30 Core, with a TO4S 7 blade 52mm trimmed wheel sitting in a .7 compressor cover.

The RB25 Exhaust housing is rated at .63, internally gated, ground out to fit the GT30 core. Far from a high fow.

yay!

gotta love response. So the big question now is: when's the tune?

Well, I'll go and see the tuner on monday and get it booked in, probably another week or hopefully it will be done by the end of the week.

I wonder if they completely stuffed the machining of the vg30 turbine housing, causing it to be a pos. ? :(

Maybe they overgroundthis one to make more top end and create less restriction? Apparently its a common technique, they overgrind to make room so that the housing doesn't become too restrictive.

That's brilliant.  I suspected it would liven things up a fair amount response wise.  Let us know how it goes with the top end power.  Hopefully the power won't "nose over" and die in the last 1000rpm.

What is full boost at this point?

How does it feel to drive?  Progressive or coming on with a rush?

Can't really tell the top end power, as all the power has dropped off a fair bit because I will assume the powerfc is using a completly different set of load points. ie, more air and a lower rpm means it will be lower down on the map earlier in the revs, and I doubt those load points have been tuned properly. I'll have to get it sorted.

Feels about 50 times better to drive, starts spooling at about 2700rpm and the boost guage rises so much faster, and 15psi at 3400rpm - 3600rpm.

But the power feels a little more progressive.

I'd assume this will be good for about 250rwkw until the housing becomes restrictive?

All I'm after :P

back to the plug issue - Does anyone see a problem with me skipping the "7" heat range plug and going straight to an "8" range plug?

I'm not sure what I should get, 7's or 8's.

Aiming for about 17psi and about 230rwkw until I can get the water methanol kit.

Don't want to kill my motor...

but what about 8's? Will they work too? Or will they give me hassles?

And is it worth going to 8's if there is a heaps bigger improvement? Or should I just stick with 7's?

I don't think you will see some massive improvement just through a change in the heat range. Try one range cooler than stock. A set of copper plugs is quite cheap and if the results are promising, THEN try two ranges cooler. It's about balancing the compromise between improving high rpm/load ignition but avoiding plug fouling.

I've left the valley cover off my engine after shelling out for a set of Splitfires to allow them to cool. Also makes it much, much easier to access plugs. Downside is that if you wash down the engine you have to be very careful not to drown the coils.

yeah I wanted to do that, but they discontinued all of the copper range with the heat rating of "7" etc and only kept the platnium range. So if I want to change the plugs, its gonna cost me $20 per plug.

Sucks ass. I think they saw that one coming.

Wish I could source a simple $4 plug that fits a skyline and runs the "7" heat range

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...