Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no mate these were top $$ genuine r32 n1 turbs. Steel wheel front and rear and 270o bush bearings.

Great for their day but only a lunatic would buy a pair of turbos like that for 6k or whatever nissan wants these days.

Unless the regs require it.

Tubro shop was:

Precision Turbo Chargers - John

51/97 Newton Rd, Wetherill Park.

02 9756 5757

BTW no idea where the foreign object ended up, we never found it.

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hell yeah, and I've seen what some of the bandits want to rebuild turbos with steel wheels. My GTR turbs were about $2700 going by the receipt, but I'd be chasing some Garrett cheaters for that money, GTSS equivalents are about 1200-1300 each and look stock.

Hell yeah, and I've seen what some of the bandits want to rebuild turbos with steel wheels. My GTR turbs were about $2700 going by the receipt, but I'd be chasing some Garrett cheaters for that money, GTSS equivalents are about 1200-1300 each and look stock.

Hi there,

They are $2570 for the set.Garrett GT2860 -9 .$300 Extra with Tune agent manifolds.RB26dett.

Cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...
Hi there,

They are $2570 for the set.Garrett GT2860 -9 .$300 Extra with Tune agent manifolds.RB26dett.

Cheers.

Where is that from??

Could i bolt these onto an otherwise stock engine/support system for the time being? Same question for the GTSS kit. Thats my biggest problem really. I dont have the budget to go out and modify everything at this stage. Just want reliability..

Cheers,

Deren

Yeah, I must be getting old.. my new baby's totally standard besides a nismo rear muffler - and although I plan on doing the exhaust eventually I don't want it any louder :D

Certainly moves alright though.. it had 33,600km on it when I bought it so it's only just been run in! :D

Hi there,

They are $2570 for the set.Garrett GT2860 -9 .$300 Extra with Tune agent manifolds.RB26dett.

Cheers.

Where is that from??

Could i bolt these onto an otherwise stock engine/support system for the time being? Same question for the GTSS kit. Thats my biggest problem really. I dont have the budget to go out and modify everything at this stage. Just want reliability..

Cheers,

Deren

Anyone?

hahah don't ask me! I didn't even realise washers were bad for turbos!

Seriously though, larger turbos and everything else standard will work.....but not optimal, the injectors, afm and tune will all need doing to make the most of the turbos

Hmm well at this stage i dont even have a sports exhaust haha! The car was stock when imported. Never modified so im starting from scratch. So it'll be a decent improvement even with no support system mods?...Over standard anyway? My biggest query was that will it be safe to drive and run, ie:detonation...

Edited by Godzilla32
I put a screwdriver on the head next to my ear, and looked like a person with a screwdriver in my ear.

A fashionable alternative to a screwdriver in the ear, is a set of ear-muffs with a straightened coat hanger held to the outer of one of the ear cups.

P.S,

I'm sick of the gnomes getting a bad rap, so it's good to hear that no gnomes were involved with the destruction of this turbo.

A fashionable alternative to a screwdriver in the ear, is a set of ear-muffs with a straightened coat hanger held to the outer of one of the ear cups.

It works better if the coat hanger is bent into the shape of australia.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well kind of.

I made the people who built it:

Pull the motor out of the car

Pull the motor apart

Remove the gnomes while disassembling the bottom end

Take all the bits to the various machine shops

Pay for the machining and turbo repair

Pay for the new bearings, rings, oil pump, oil cooler, gaskets

And I am expecting them to

Reassemble motor

Seal all orifices to keep gnomes and similar out next time

Put it back in car

All the bits should be back from the machine shop in the next week, once we finally got started (12 months lol) it is moving pretty quickly.

Need to get it all back and running reliably since we now have a date with a bunch of tasmanian roads on 17-22 April next year.

Watch it on the Tassie roads, the gnomes tend too mark their territory down there on corners and stuff. Also next time just get a bigger tubbo so bolts, washers, gnomes and stuff can pass through the bigger fan blades and wont get broken.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Give it 40psi and send it to the moon
    • I suspect 550s are on the large side for happy operation with a stock/Nistune RB20 ECU. The Hitachi ECU doesn't love short pulse width operation, and the RB20 doesn't need much fuel at idle. Big injectors can be unpleasant. This could be contributing.
    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
×
×
  • Create New...