Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

clean up the cut out part and practice on it?

they arent overly hard to set up, might as well practice on it, its only a 31, =P

yeah i've done a tiny bit of arc welding and i've got a tonne of rods (but no welder)

i don't think i could arc the 31 tho because the pannels must only be 1-1.5mm thick (rods are 2.5 so way too beefy)

anyone selling a cheap mig welder?

i belive you can hire MIGs at a pretty good rate.

like everything a cheap welder will give cheap results. a half decent one will do a good job with a bad operator.

dont get a gas less mig. may as well stick weld it.

Do like, the GT-C's will look mint ( if your still putting them on it )

Nothing really new on my car put on a new intake pipe ( stock one with a section cut out & filled with a piece of pipe ) as i found my old one had a rather large split on the underside

new pod ( +25kw :laugh:)

oil change & filter

just waiting till next week to register it and finish my pipes so i can have it all ready for time attack ( being a poser on the hill :sleep: )

c36020120308201745resiz.jpg

Edited by Autumn33

just a quick question, would having the wires to my tps cut have anything to do with why my car wont idle till warm? drives fine while cold just wont idle, only way i can get it to idle is unplug the afm till its warm. (just realised the plug has been cut)

Or could it be my acc valve?

Has all the tubes from the tb missing also but ive read that wont affect it.

Will be cleaning the acc tomorrow to see if it helps.

just a quick question, would having the wires to my tps cut have anything to do with why my car wont idle till warm? drives fine while cold just wont idle, only way i can get it to idle is unplug the afm till its warm. (just realised the plug has been cut)

Or could it be my acc valve?

Has all the tubes from the tb missing also but ive read that wont affect it.

Will be cleaning the acc tomorrow to see if it helps.

Dose your idle controll valve have a hose going into the cooler pipe work pre-throttle body?

The TPS has 2 sets of wires, one is the throttle signal, and the other is the idle switch. Your idle switch is cut, so your car will idle like shit. Also is the TPS isn't adjusted properly, the idle switch will never activate.

Edited by sav man

Dose your idle controll valve have a hose going into the cooler pipe work pre-throttle body?

For some reason i have a breather on the aac valve. Has a T piece with a breather and a hose that leads to a black plastic box :wacko:

Edit: managed to get my phone down there to take a pic, not the best but it shows what i mean about the breather & the black thing.

post-71390-0-27323600-1331469773_thumb.jpg

Edited by Autumn33

yep pretty simple. where that air filter is that line needs to be plumbed onto the turbo side of the throttle.

that would be sucking un metered air during cold start and idle. its a wonder it doesnt stall when you stop at lights.

that black box thing as you described is a heat activated air bypass valve. or cold start valve. its fully open when the car is cold and as the block warms up it closes off. it also has ignition power to it to help it close off. this is why under cold start imports rev heigh for the first few minutes then slowly go back to normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...