Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bilsteins out (too firm for what i use the car for, and to be honest the suspension i had before was pretty much perfect, just a little high)

drove it to the drifting

also its running a bit shit at first with the cold mornings, everything runs as normal once the water is over about 60°C

could be the plugs, they are iridiums but i've probably put 60,000 kms on them already :(

I asked about for you but the people i asked hadn't seen you

If you've still got that 3" cat i'll take it Peter

also, the car looks good from a distance, but there are a few problems when you get up close

Edited by pipster11

so when finally get round to changing my rocker cover gasket im gonna change my spark plugs too, ive been reading around and looking on the ngk website they recommend, pfr5g-11, but ive read a lot of people just go with coppers - bkr6eya and im assuming once again -11

would that model in the coppers be the right ones for me? all i have is turbo back, and front mount.

aslo with the rocker cover gasket the half moon, when using gasket glue do you only put it on the curved edge, not flat?

also wanted to go the drifts... damn work

Edited by MatthewT85

so when finally get round to changing my rocker cover gasket im gonna change my spark plugs too, ive been reading around and looking on the ngk website they recommend, pfr5g-11, but ive read a lot of people just go with coppers - bkr6eya and im assuming once again -11

would that model in the coppers be the right ones for me? all i have is turbo back, and front mount.

aslo with the rocker cover gasket the half moon, when using gasket glue do you only put it on the curved edge, not flat?

also wanted to go the drifts... damn work

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/104405-spark-plugs/

I asked about for you but the people i asked hadn't seen you

If you've still got that 3" cat i'll take it Peter

also, the car looks good from a distance, but there are a few problems when you get up close

Yeah sorry I didn't have a chance to catch up with you, I was so busy I didn't even have time to scratch my self! If you're looking for me at a drift event I'm usually at Pit Exit or Race Control ;)

yep thats what i read, just saw they had BKR6EYA and someone else had BCPR6ES

but i think ill just stick to the bkr6eya

BCPR6ES or 7ES's

I've only ever used 6/7's 180-400+ rwkw

ok thanks yeah thats what sorta got me confused between the two, i think i read in there that one 'neck'/bit that sticks into the coilpack is longer....

am i right in putting the gasket glue only on the half moon curved piece? and the rest is fine to leave

Yeah sorry I didn't have a chance to catch up with you, I was so busy I didn't even have time to scratch my self! If you're looking for me at a drift event I'm usually at Pit Exit or Race Control ;)

thats ok mate

I saw Alan in the commentators booth (rather he saw me)

If you want to bring that 3" cat up to the sprints of whatever is at symmonds this weened i'll gladly take that off your hands, don't think i can do the wheels atm, don't quite have the money for it atm

ok thanks yeah thats what sorta got me confused between the two, i think i read in there that one 'neck'/bit that sticks into the coilpack is longer....

am i right in putting the gasket glue only on the half moon curved piece? and the rest is fine to leave

Don't be fooled into buying anything other than coppers either.

i've always used copper BCP6res NGK plugs in kermit, at approx~25 a set i simply replaced them every 5k when i serviced. they comein 2 types that ive found, if they have 11 on the end they are pre-gapped to 1.1, if they have no numbers, they are generally .8 gap which worked perfectly for my car above 12psi boost (19psi atm)

tried bosche plugs once.. never again.

i've always used copper BCP6res NGK plugs in kermit, at approx~25 a set i simply replaced them every 5k when i serviced. they comein 2 types that ive found, if they have 11 on the end they are pre-gapped to 1.1, if they have no numbers, they are generally .8 gap which worked perfectly for my car above 12psi boost (19psi atm)

tried bosche plugs once.. never again.

thanks yeah ive ended up with bcp6res, and i decided on the -11 as im only upto 9psi atm just have to find a day to do everything now

well that was a bit of a pain in the arse to change... not hard just removing everything. i had trouble getting the coilpack cover back on properly, ended up losing one screw and not able to get one more back on... :S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...