Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just installed one of those Just Jap oil cooler kits on my RB20. All seemed to be well except when i checked my car at lunch today it has leaked a lot of oil (after driving it to work). I'm guessing its leaking from the threads. I put some lock-tight on the connectors on the cooler but it was an after thought and i could not get to the other connectors on the block or the remote filter mount easily, hence didn't put any on those. So i'm guessing thats where it has leaked from. Is lock-tight what other people use when installing them? Or something else? As i thought i did all the nuts up quite tight, but something still must not be quite right.

Am i missing something else?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91393-installing-oil-cooler/
Share on other sites

I installed one of those in my 33. Check the oil filter relocation block, and see if those two ally bungs are leaking. Cause i had trouble with mine, the threads and taper locks were really poor. Apart from that, i had no worries with anything else on it, no lines were leaking.

Put the front of your car up on jack stands and have a look from underneath, and you will soon find out where exactly it is leaking from.

hope ya find the leak :)

you hope you have enough oil to get home?

you only need enough to get to to the closest garage/autoshop/supermarket... anything that sells oil.

Or make it a really short trip.

Do the maths: Is it worth going an extra oilchange (to get rid of the cheap oil) in order to keep the engine good?

It might not warp the head. It might not crack the turbo manifold. If it was my car, I'd be a chicken.

do what you will, but good luck either way.

--just tryin to help

--ebola

EDIT: Whats with the timestamps? it said 5:35, my computer said 5:30 (close enough) and I get listed as posting at 6:30... What state is the server in!?! (and don't say denial - thats MY state)

Edited by ebola

I had leaks from the threads that connect to the core and also where the hoses hoses connect to the oil filter relocation bit and also those bungs spoken about above. I used thread tape which mostly worked but I'm going to have another go shortly.

about a litre more i think roughly of oil is needed to make it level again.

On mine, i had to drill out those holes for the ally bungs and retap them oversized and i used some other bungs i had in the garage and locktited them in.

I would top up with oil asap. Then as soon as your home get ya car up on jacks and then check every hose and connection in the system. My money is on those shitty bungs. I was impressed greatly by the kit as it came with everything, but those bungs were the only things to let the kit down, so sloppy was the thread and it just didnt seal, with and without thread tape.

Hope ya dont stuff ya engine driving home with little or no oil in the system. Especially if its a fairly large leak.

those ally bungs are reliant on the tight thread and the thread is just sooo loose.

They have a recessed area behind the hole for the oil pressure/temp probes for gauges, so no there are no seats, or tapering holes. Someone might have to verify that, but im pretty sure its just a tight thread to seal.

Apart from that problem, they are an excellent kit for the money spent.

All the braided lines and fittings are the tapered seat sort and they seal perfectly. Ive had no dramas with mine.

Edited by r33_racer

I checked my oil level before I went home and I still had plently. Got it up on jacks to check everything out. The bungs for the sensors i think were the main culprit. I had only done them up finger tight. I think there was a little bit leaking from the hose connections on the relocator, I don't think there was any leaking from the hoses on the block. I went over everything again and tightened everything up. Not a drop leaked from the cooler fittings, as those were the ones i actually got some locktight on. Just wish i had thought of that earlier and put it on all of them. Still had a bit of oil on the floor this morning, though i'm hoping it was just oil that had already dripped onto the plastic shield under the car and had eventually made its way to the ground. I guess all i can do it keep monitoring it. I wiped down all the fittings last night so i'll check them again tonight.

Guys,guys guys, what's with the thread tape? This is an engine not some bloody leaking garden tap.

There are plenty of excellent products designed specifically for hydraulic applications, and they DON'T deposit strands of tape in your lubrication system.

Think for a minute what happens when a bit of that tape finds its way via your oilpump to relief valve, lifters, main/bigend/smallend bearings, turbo bearings etc.

Leave the plumber's tape for the plumber's jobs.

HKS OIL COOLER/RELOCATION KIT from nengun 800 bucks i think.

Thats the alternative. Really pricey though.

My mate put one of the cheaper chinese items on his car and it is still leaking from somewhere. My brother spent the money on a HKS cooler and hasn't leaked at all. 400-500 dollar difference though.

i dont see an issue with using thread tape

its meant to seal threads which is wat we are using it for

and its not like u use 800 little peices of it

its one long peice wrapped around and around

so theres not really much that can come off and go back into your engine

i think if used carefully thread tape 'should' be ok.

like mad34 said I have the Grex kit with remote filter mount and thermo etc on my car and it doesn't leak from anywhere, installed without any thread tape. but it's cost is MUCH higher than the chinese kits :)

I haven't seen this item but it sounds like they're trying to fit a tapered plug into a parallel thread. Not designed for it. Should have a copper washer sealing onto a machined area under the head on the bolt.

Same concept as your engine temp sensor fittings.

A tapered plug goes into a tapered thread with Locktite or hydraulic thread seal.

Thread tape goes in the plumber's toolbox.

I used some sort of sealing compound made by Loctite, sold to me at the place where I got all my -dash fittings from. Said to use it sparigly on both surfaces

He said don't use plumbers tape, thats for garden taps not engines and can cause problems

http://www.loctite.com.au/int_henkel/locti...eid=19&layout=3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
×
×
  • Create New...