Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 months later...

I ran an 11.4 at @121 mph and an 11.5 @ 123mph.

1.8 to 60ft which I have done 1.7 before on a prepped track so it should have been an 11.2.

Around 22PSI on -5 turbos and a tune recheck put me at 360kw as the old tuner inflated my numbers.

Stock wheels now with 225/50/16 Good Year Eagle 1's.....not the best drag rubber so the results make me pretty happy.

Only engine upgrade is a Plazmaman intercooler and new BOV's as im going bigger injectors now to hunt my 10 sec pass on low mount -5s and 2.6L.

Will upload slips later.

 

  • 3 months later...

R33 gtst spec 2 automatic.

Ran 14.02 @ 107mph last weekend on a new map with higher boost.

emanage ultimate

hybrid turbo

440cc injectors

big Intercooler 

z32 maf

3” exhaust all the way through

no nos

225/55/16 on the rears, pineapples fitted.

Can’t seem to crack into 13’s I think a high stall tc is in order, launching around 2k isn’t cutting it..

4C114E4E-D607-4FA1-BD20-3B6802D57299.jpeg

  • 1 year later...
On 04/01/2018 at 10:48 PM, Super Drager said:

Z32 300ZX

1590kg race weight

E85

 

Stock turbos

Restrictive exhaust and intake setup

1000cc injectors

R32 GTR 4.11 diff

Intercoolers

Nistune

Blown rear shocks causing extreme tramp.

ET streets 255/60/15

300rwkw @ 15psi on unigroup dyno.

 

12.4 @ 116mph, 2.1 60ft.

 

Have coilovers in the rear now and a wizards of nos sb150i2 nitrous kit fitted so will go back to crack an 11.

 

 

 

 

Update:

 

Swapped nistune out for Link G4+

Added external wastegates

Dual intake

Rear coilovers

 

Car ran 12.1 @ 117mph. 1.8 60ft

Stock fuel pump is out of juice and was leaning out bad enough for the car to lose power. 1/8th mile trap was 93-94mph. 

 

  • 4 weeks later...

Drove the fat broad minded person at the last test and tune. Drove it out steady for a 2.0 60ft, went 11.02 at 139.4mph on a set of federal super streets (595ss) and a 3437lb weigh in.

 

R33GTR.

 

Got a set of radials I might throw on when I get an actual wheel alignment that's not for a hill climb ??

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...

Finally got the old girl to the plex

I'm stoked to finally run a 10 and with some newer taller tires I have no doubt it'll go quicker. 

stock bottomend 25/30

E85 

Precision 6266

3sp Jatco

Did 498hp on a hubber but we have since turned it up a little, still scared of the playdough rods so 20psi is our current limit

The old et street S/S were fighting us off the foot brake and with a 7000rpm limit and the 4.11s we were on the limiter for the last 30-40m which hurt the mph/et but hey we got there in the end.

 

10.9.thumb.jpg.371333ff6ec0003107881f04aa1147b2.jpg

  • Like 4
  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
On 31/03/2022 at 1:09 PM, Looney_Head said:

missed this thread..

ET:11.846

MPH:130.65

60':2.004

Tyres: 275/40/17 M/T ET Street radials

Fuel:E70

Nissan:R32 Gts-t

specs here: 

 

11.8.thumb.jpg.a91c68a22451c018799384057f309bad.jpg

Got good MPH there. Get it out of the hole and thats an easy 10

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/31/2022 at 8:50 PM, 33GTRV said:

Got good MPH there. Get it out of the hole and thats an easy 10

yeah, the goal is to put some softer springs in the back and turn up the launch rpm and boost in first and second to see if the track will hold.

i want a 1.8ish 60ft on the MT's lol

  • 4 weeks later...
On 5/11/2022 at 9:01 AM, Shoota_77 said:

Fark me, what power is this beast making??  Details?

RB32

2100HP at the wheels through TH400 auto

This time was done with few pedal jobs, not a clean pass

Will be back for GTR Festival, goal, low 7s

 

image.thumb.jpeg.3b62914f49e3f02821e5289bd9ffa9d0.jpeg

  • Like 4
On 12/05/2022 at 1:32 AM, star32 said:

RB32

2100HP at the wheels through TH400 auto

This time was done with few pedal jobs, not a clean pass

Will be back for GTR Festival, goal, low 7s

 

image.thumb.jpeg.3b62914f49e3f02821e5289bd9ffa9d0.jpeg

Well that explains it!!!

Amazing car mate, cannot even comprehend how much of a handful that would be!!!

Have you done a build blog on it at all?

On 12/05/2022 at 1:32 AM, star32 said:

RB32

2100HP at the wheels through TH400 auto

This time was done with few pedal jobs, not a clean pass

Will be back for GTR Festival, goal, low 7s

 

image.thumb.jpeg.3b62914f49e3f02821e5289bd9ffa9d0.jpeg

Got some video of a run or 2, purely for my enjoyment pleasure 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...