Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Actually, I should do that.....

Take some pics etc and make a decision after looking over the pics too...

For some reason I keep thinking I would just buy them online and then have them fitted in town.

Oh, I dont think they will be right for me then as I would prefer to fill the guards out and will be getting cool overs etc.

Any suggestions for rims? I would ideally like to get Nismo rims.... Anyone know of a Nismo rim to suit?

Problem is I don't really want to do too many mods and stuffing around..... Trying to just find rims that will fit best.

Thanks for the replies do far, really appreciate the help.

If you want to fill the guards a bit then something like R34 GTR wheels might be a better bet, they are 18x9+30. They come up for sale on this site every now and then.

Alternately you could probably find a set of Nismo LMGT4's in a similar size to that, however since they are discontinued it may take a bit of searching to find good condition ones in the right size for the right price.

As bentwagon said, see if you can get some wheel places to trial fit some different wheels on your car, it will give you a bit better idea of what you are looking for.

This is 18x9+18 on a s1 automatic, so you can see you do have a decent amount of room to play with if you want to fill the guards.

SnS081.jpg

I actually like both those rims pictured............

But I am after 18s, so 180fan - Is that your car? If so, did you have to lower the car, roll the guards or use spacers for them rims? and for it to sit like that? I am guessing you'd have to lower it, but what else have you had to do?

Where can I get those rims? I do like them.

Yeah its my car. The rims are Volk Racing GT-7's, i bought them used from JImports, a business who bring in heaps of different parts from Japan. I havent seen many sets of them for sale since I bought my ones, if you wanted to try and find some i think your best chance would be looking through Yahoo Japan auctions for them. Check out www.importmonster.com.au, it will let you search through the auctions for all sorts of things and will also translate it to english.

The car is lowered on coilovers, the rear guards have been rolled, but not the front ones. Not using any spacers, the front wheels could actually be spaced out about 15-20mm because of how much room the c34 front guards have, i just havent ever gotten around to doing it. Tyres are 235/40, i have had the wheels on for almost 2 years now and havent had any scrubbing problems or anything like that.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone,

Just wanting some help if possible. I have been a long time reader on here but have only just signed up as I really would like to know if a particular rim would fit my RS4 Stagea........ Can someone tell me if the rims in the link will fit my car? Better make sure they will fit before I click the 'buy it now' etc. Thanks in advance :)

I actually wanted the Nismo LMGT4s but I have been told they won't fit??

http://www.ebay.com....b#ht_2030wt_911

if somebody told u LMGT4's wont fit they are high! if you just buy a set that is 9inches all round they'll fit fine. you want an offset somewhere close to +20 all round give or take 5mm

Ray I disagree

Are you quoting a auto or manual stagea 9 inch +20 all round?

If you look at Kiwirs4t photo he has 17x9 +30 on an "auto" and the rears are already hanging out the guards

If you go +20 or +15 you will be hanging out even more.

LMGT4 may or not fit..........it depends what caliper clearance they are......like Disk "A" or "B" or "C" etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...