Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for reference

17x9 +37 had about 3mm of clearance to stock struts

so i'd say you'd want a 15mm spacer on the rear (about 13mm more inset than the 17x9), maybe 20mm, but then you'll probably be poking out the guards

and as said before, you need the same tyres all round

so stretch 245's onto the 11's or run 265's on the 9's (latter is probably better)

Edited by pipster11

the different rotational speeds

ecu sees rears going faster/slower than the fronts and tries to help you out

Then its welcome to surge city!

Mine was doing when one of my rears was slightly more worn than the other

It's rolling diameter !!! Tyer wear would not be enough to trip it, currently I run staggered sets on all my stagea's but as long as you run close enough to the same rolling diameter you'll have no probs

Example 1 19x8.5 and 19x9 running 235 40 18s all round

Example 2 18x8 with 225 40 and 18x9 235 40

Example 3 18 x9.5 with 235 40 and 18x10 265 35

Plus I've had other sets on the car that have all worked out with no surging . Like I said just get close as with in rolling diameter and you will be right

To be honest i think its fine as long as the rears are bigger than the fronts

100% my atessa gauge was creeping up when on the highway (nearing 10 on the gauge)

I changed 1 tyre and its fine now

Also the car was surging at 100km/h

  • Like 1

To be honest i think its fine as long as the rears are bigger than the fronts

100% my atessa gauge was creeping up when on the highway (nearing 10 on the gauge)

I changed 1 tyre and its fine now

Also the car was surging at 100km/h

I found this - had 2 tyres replaced on the front for RWC and got some serious surging issues - chucked them on the back and its aok

tyres dont need to be the same just the rolliang diameter does :)

Ok so using the pirfect wheel specs for an Rs4S

18X9.5 +12 all round

what tire profile do you recomend?

i will most probably roll the guard lips for comfort, i just want it to tuck in nicely, obviously beinf 4wd the front and rears need to be the same.

might get a mate to fit a 235 on on, see what the stretch is like, still unsure of brand so it will depend.

coilovers arrived otday so gonna drop it and see what sort of cavity im looking at

ok i seem to be getting idfferent information from different wheel calculator sites, can some one help me out with some dimensions.

CII Rs4-S c34

it currently has R34gtt wheels fitted which i beleive are

17X7+40

as they are from a RWD R34 they sit quite far in the guards.

just fitted my BC coilovers and when going over bbumps when the wheel cambers in the rim touches the coilover thread.

static it is a few MM off.

its the rears which are touching on bumps, the fronts are fine.

i am going to use maby an 8-10mm spacer to solve the issue but the new wheels are on they way and im confused as to weather they will foul aswell.

they will be

18X9.5 +12

one site sais i will loose inner clearance and another sais it will gain so im not sure.

Edited by GH05T

The wheels should be stamped with their size somewhere inside them, they usually are. I'm guessing they're +30, not +40 offset. An offset of +40 is usually for FWD cars.

Are you using an online tyre calculator? There are plenty around if you do a Google search.

well they are R34 GTT stock wheels which from searching on SAU seem ot be +40

i am using online tire calculators which is where im getting the conflicting information from.

does anyone know of one which they would trust?

Edited by GH05T

To be honest i think its fine as long as the rears are bigger than the fronts

100% my atessa gauge was creeping up when on the highway (nearing 10 on the gauge)

I changed 1 tyre and its fine now

Also the car was surging at 100km/h

had the exact same problem, but both my rears where bold and my front where 95%, and started surging aroudn the 90km/h mark, and the gauge had about 10% i removed the plug under the dash that brought the 4wd light on and limpt home (130km's)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...