Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If anyones wondering what 18" white Advanti Samurai's look like here you go. They are 18x9 +35 and 235/40R18 tyres. Minor stretch. I dont really like stretch but it was necessary as you will see when you scroll down. The bottom of the coil over adjuster nuts were rubbing on the rear tyres. Fortunately I just needed to raise the coilovers about 10mm. Its still pretty low though. If they had +30 offset I wouldve got that but anymore poke is just ricey IMO. Running 18x10 with 20 offset is not for me! haha. For the record this rim/offset is fine with TEIN coilovers set to a reasonable height.

For you guys still confused (and fair enough), this site helped me heaps, and kinda renders this thread useless, if it werent for the sweet stagea pics lol.

http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=215&aspect=45&diameter=17&wheelwidth=7&offset=45&width2=235&aspect2=40&diameter2=18&wheelwidth2=9&offset2=35#content

Just find out your current width and offset (should be on the rim, inside), check the clearance on the inside (suspension) and outside (guards) of your current wheel, and enter the specs of your new wheel.

Ilrv3Ey.jpg

1QmyeH8.jpg

N61Biui.jpg

You can see if I went with 255's it wouldnt have fitted.

tkdDhmD.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Righto, I've been looking and reading and looking and calculating some more and I've settled on 18x9.5 +15 with 265/35s all round on an S2 C34 RS4S.

It's running Bilsteins and it's got a fair bit of low installed but by my calcs they'll fit properly, without having to resort to crap camber to make them clear the struts.

Can anyone spot anything I might be missing?

You are legendary. Going by those pics they'll fit, although the clearance between the inner tyre and strut will be a bee's dick. Worst case I have some 5mm spacers to give a tad more clearance. Not ideal, but the car is just a cruiser so no biggie.

Cowboy1600, here's some more detailed pics, also a S2 C34 RS4S with 18x9.5 +15 but with 235/40's. Center of rim to the guard is about 340~345mm.

20150927_072223%20%281024x576%29.jpg

20150927_072250%20%28576x1024%29.jpg

20150927_072323%20%28576x1024%29.jpg

20150927_072431%20%28576x1024%29.jpg

What happens when you throw it into a corner? You can get the same fitment and the same rubber on the road with 18 x 8in and 235 tyres:

2014-02-02181113_zps8e8a8198.jpg

2014-02-02181000_zpsf6f87731.jpg

It's not the fitment I'm concerned about, more the rubber. It's at 230rwkw now and the 235s on it now struggle. Once I decide on a new intercooler and get it back to Trent for a tune it should be north of 300 and 235s will not stand a chance.

I've converted to RWD so need 265s to tame the rear.

It's not the fitment I'm concerned about, more the rubber. It's at 230rwkw now and the 235s on it now struggle. Once I decide on a new intercooler and get it back to Trent for a tune it should be north of 300 and 235s will not stand a chance.

I've converted to RWD so need 265s to tame the rear.

Sure - my comments were more directed at Jase with his big wheels and small tyres.

You just need to get your wheels away from the suspension and then take to the guards with a big hammer!

I know my set up is far from ideal, i will admit that. When i bought the stagea it had 18x8 with 235/40 tyres and 18x9 265/35 tyres with 20mm spacers front and rear. I dislike spacers and i was having issues with the 4wd because of the mismatched tyres.
The cst's popped up at a price i couldn't refuse and made them fit.

It handles just fine, i cant notice the difference the two set of rims it had.

  • 2 weeks later...

OK, ended up with 18x8.5 +15 fronts with 235 40s and 18x9.5 +32 on the rear running 265 35s.

Fit is perfect. I had them roll the guards while I was there for a bit of extra room. It is rubbing somewhere but I I'm not sure where yet.

It's looks perfect!

gallery_69546_5900_657883.jpg

OK, ended up with 18x8.5 +15 fronts with 235 40s and 18x9.5 +32 on the rear running 265 35s.

Fit is perfect. I had them roll the guards while I was there for a bit of extra room. It is rubbing somewhere but I I'm not sure where yet.

It's looks perfect!

gallery_69546_5900_657883.jpg

What are they?

Black always looks great against the yellow.

  • 1 month later...

Will a set of 18x9 +35 fit an s2 stagea rs four s?

Nope.

I've run into a problem with mine (18x9.5 +32)

They hit the strut on the inner lip going over bumps. I'mm going to run 10mm slip on hub centric spacers with longer wheel studs to get around the issue.

For 9.5s you want minimum of +22 i've decided, based on my experience. So 9s give you about 6mm extra clearance,, so you'd want max of ~+28 offset.

Nope.

I've run into a problem with mine (18x9.5 +32)

They hit the strut on the inner lip going over bumps. I'mm going to run 10mm slip on hub centric spacers with longer wheel studs to get around the issue.

For 9.5s you want minimum of +22 i've decided, based on my experience. So 9s give you about 6mm extra clearance,, so you'd want max of ~+28 offset.

Thanks! Now am looking at a set of Varrstoens, same 9.5 width, and come in 12 and 22 offsets. Any ideas which would be best? thinking 12 on front and 22 on rear?

Thanks! Now am looking at a set of Varrstoens, same 9.5 width, and come in 12 and 22 offsets. Any ideas which would be best? thinking 12 on front and 22 on rear?

9.5+12 will stick out a mile on the front, where a 9.5+22 will fit under with a 245 wide tyre with some minor guard rolling.

A 9.5+12 would probably be just about spot on for the rear; might still want the lips rolled lightly. Even the +22 looks bloody good, and having all four the same offset means you can rotate wheels easily.

  • Like 1

9.5+12 will stick out a mile on the front, where a 9.5+22 will fit under with a 245 wide tyre with some minor guard rolling.

A 9.5+12 would probably be just about spot on for the rear; might still want the lips rolled lightly. Even the +22 looks bloody good, and having all four the same offset means you can rotate wheels easily.

I've got 18x8.5 +19 on the front with 245s and they fit beautifully. We test fitted 9.5 +15s on the rear and they stuck out too far. +22s are spot on for the rear IMO (On a C34 rs4s). Will need guards rolled if the car has a decent amount of low installed though.

Will a set of 18x9 +35 fit an s2 stagea rs four s?

definetely not.

i got r33 gtr wheels (I know its 17x9 +30 but extra inch in the wheel would make mine much worse) on mine but the rears scrapped massively, got 15mm bolt on spacers but still scraps over bumps. I would need atleast another 5mm to clear struts over bumps. mine is lowered so if its higher or has adjustable camber arms could probably get them further away from the struts.

as for the fronts i have plenty of room no issues with the +30 but i would again go further down towards a +20-25 atleast.

Okay. just found out that my shop can get rotiforms in, and for wicked employee deals, so I am going to get a custom set of these made up. Going to stick with 8.5 wide to make choosing an offset a little more forgiving. I seen earlier in the thread someone said s2 rs4s should be good with +6 all around. Thoughts? Not opposed to guard rolling at all, would just like to be able to do without spacers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...