Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

i finally took my hicas out last weekend, took all the hosing, and units out and plumbed the hose back to the breater hose in the front where the 4ws actuator was, works like a dream, just have to take the hicas bulb out of the dash now...

I'm pretty keen to do this, just one question though. Is it better to lock the back up with a lock bar, or with the washers (in weight saving, and strength). I'm guessing that the washers will be fine, just wanted to double check though.

I found a HICAS ECU pinout, and wire 20 is the warning lamp, so if you cut that, it should save pulling the dash out.

Edited by sav man
  • 3 weeks later...
I'm pretty keen to do this, just one question though. Is it better to lock the back up with a lock bar, or with the washers (in weight saving, and strength). I'm guessing that the washers will be fine, just wanted to double check though.

I found a HICAS ECU pinout, and wire 20 is the warning lamp, so if you cut that, it should save pulling the dash out.

Any chance you could share that pinout?

I really wouldn't mind having a good look at that.

  • 2 weeks later...
OK.....

i have a picture of the HICAS solenoid i hope the picture can make sense for me and all the other HICAS frenzie removalist out there..

http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1140862108.jpg

Join the hoses you marked in red and the rear stage of the pump will just feed throught the cooler.

I am confused. My lines have small hose for hose #1 , and large hose for hose #2 ....how are you supposed to join them with a simple 150mm long hose? I must have the wrong line, but I have followed the directions right as far as I know? It looks to me that #2 is high pressure...there is no-where to attach a normal rubber hose without making a fitting ?

If it is the right one, I have no idea how I am supposed to get the hose off there with the metal clamps.

The top of my engine bay looks like the picture posted by meep.

Picture1 - http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1140862108.jpg

The underside looks like this

Picture 2

http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/hicas.jpg

I could disconnet it under the car, then run a longer hose up, and use a fitting at the bottom...but this doesn't seem right based on what SydneyKid is saying?

I am worried I am about to rip out the wrong hose. either that or the wrong place, cause i can't see it being a 10 minute job like SK made said

Is the line in red the right place to put the link?

Picture 3

http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/hicas1.jpg

post-15054-1148264202.jpg

post-15054-1148264216.jpg

post-15054-1148264225.jpg

Edited by eXc
I am confused. My lines have small hose for hose #1 , and large hose for hose #2 ....how are you supposed to join them with a simple 150mm long hose? I must have the wrong line, but I have followed the directions right as far as I know? It looks to me that #2 is high pressure...there is no-where to attach a normal rubber hose without making a fitting ?

If it is the right one, I have no idea how I am supposed to get the hose off there with the metal clamps.

The top of my engine bay looks like the picture posted by meep.

Picture1 - http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1140862108.jpg

The underside looks like this

Picture 2

http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/hicas.jpg

I could disconnet it under the car, then run a longer hose up, and use a fitting at the bottom...but this doesn't seem right based on what SydneyKid is saying?

I am worried I am about to rip out the wrong hose. either that or the wrong place, cause i can't see it being a 10 minute job like SK made said

Is the line in red the right place to put the link?

Picture 3

http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/hicas1.jpg

Let’s get the terminology right first then move onto what to do.;

1. High pressure hoses DO NOT HAVE CLAMPS, they have compression fittings. So any hose with a compression fitting on it is NOT low pressure.

2. Low pressure hoses HAVE CLAMPS.

3. What you are doing is joining 2 low pressure pieces of (standard) pipework with a piece of (aftermarket) rubber hose that has a clamp at each end to hold the (aftermarket) hose onto the (standard) pipework.

4. The fluid supply and return to the power steering cooler is LOW PRESSURE, so it has clamps.

5. Follow the power steering cooler (standard) pipework and (standard) hoses and note where the (standard) pipework joins to the (standard) rubber hoses. Note that there is both a supply from and a return to the power steering cooler, the return is LOW PRESSURE.

6. Go to the power steering reservoir and follow the (standard) pipework for the return of the fluid from the rear solenoids. The standard pipework goes under the engine, clipped to the subframe.

7. Join the output of the power steering cooler (standard) pipework to the (standard) pipework where it pokes up from the subframe. It needs around 100 to 150 mm piece of aftermarket rubber hose and 2 clamps.

Sorry I can not put up a picture, so please don’t ask.. My own R32GTS does not have the pipework in it at the moment as I am changing to a larger power steering cooler.

Hopefully that is of some help.

:thumbsup: Cheers :wave:

Edited by Sydneykid
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
×
×
  • Create New...