Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just installed a hks 2835 pro s in my r33 - just thought I'd post up some pics of the install.

It took dad and I all day today from removal of the stock turbo to turn key new turbo to do the install.

The kit was pretty easy to fit - quite a bit fiddly getting everything fitting right though as there is a lot of adjustment - you can turn the compressor cover and turbine cover any way so it takes a bit of patience that's for sure.

The new intake pipe doesn't line up (miss by a couple of inches) with the stock airbox so we cut a short length off the standard rubber intake pipe and it fits ok - no problem for someone running a pod though.

Also took a some comparison photos of the stock rb25 det to 2835.

This was a great turbo for me - made good power and didn't miss a beat.

Will be puttering to the exhaust shop tomorrow to get the down pipe made and probably dyno later on in the week.

Something I haven't heard though is a turbo spin for ages like this one after turning off the engine.

Pretty cool - can't wait to get the tune done and see how it goes!

Cheers

post-12959-1132653574.jpg

post-12959-1132653661.jpg

post-12959-1132653799.jpg

post-12959-1132653904.jpg

post-12959-1132654008.jpg

post-12959-1132654256.jpg

post-12959-1132654338.jpg

post-12959-1132654812.jpg

post-12959-1132654960.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95914-pics-hks-2835-install/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This turbo is THE bomb. It is totally awesome for a low mount and internal gate turbo, and makes an absolute weapon of a street car. Prepare to fry your tires like never before!

heres my latest tune. The tuner was wrapped and said it was probably the best street car hes driven, which is a pretty big statement!

281.7rwkw at 17psi. Im told that this is pretty much the maximum for this turbo, which rated at 420ps, is making nearly 500hp at the fly. I know some have seen 300rwkw, but i think that may have been taking measures to hold shut the wastegate! Stock manifold and plenum by the way, only addition are good ol tomei 256 poncams as recommended by SK.

2835poncam.jpg

by the way i strongly recommend you make up something like this:

christmas2004048.jpg

as no gasket comes in the kit, or is even available, and make sure to add a washer between the heat shield and the dump pipe around the top stud AND use some sealant, as we had a problem that the afforementioned washer fixed. (reason is the heatsheild flange is forked, not round, and air leaks from the stud hole out the forked bit of the heat shield bolt flange!

cheers

christmas2004048.jpg

as no gasket comes in the kit, or is even available, and make sure to add a washer between the heat shield and the dump pipe around the top stud AND use some sealant, as we had a problem that the afforementioned washer fixed. (reason is the heatsheild flange is forked, not round, and air leaks from the stud hole out the forked bit of the heat shield bolt flange!

Hi Sly r33

Very impressed with the dyno result!

How are the new cams? Is the idle very different?

We used coppermix sealand on the dump - hope it holds up! A few people on this forum have recommended it.

Maybe the reason why you have a leak is that copper wire probably has a small leak where it has a break??

I'm just really hoping we have no problems otherwise it'll be hit the spanners again!!!

On a good note I took it for a drive this afternoon with the new down pipe installed along with tech edge lamda sensor unit - good to check the AFR's as I won't be able to get it tuned until next saturday. Man this new turbo comes onto boost hard, and it feels just as responsive as the standard turbo! I didn't go past 40% duty cycle on the injectors - the top end must be pretty impressive! Knock levels were fine too.

I just can't wait to get the tune done now.

Cheers!

the cams are great, no real noticeable change in idle.. i thought it sounded a little more throbbing/pulsing at idle, but its probably psychological as i hadnt heard it idle for ages, hehe.

its quite responsive, but its still pretty far off the std turbo! i think it feels more responsive because you get a heap of torque even while its spooling. Hits hard at 4k, but pulling way below that. I think any more lag and it wouldnt be such a good street turbo so i wouldnt consider any larger exhaust AR. Even with the .68 you can get caught just off boost round some slower corners, doesnt take long to build tho.

make sure you sort your diff out, as you want a controllable rear end when it bags them up! A worn out viscous lsd would be a bit sketchy to say the least.

when do you get your tune and whos doing it?

the cams are great, no real noticeable change in idle.. i thought it sounded a little more throbbing/pulsing at idle, but its probably psychological as i hadnt heard it idle for ages, hehe.

its quite responsive, but its still pretty far off the std turbo! i think it feels more responsive because you get a heap of torque even while its spooling. Hits hard at 4k, but pulling way below that. I think any more lag and it wouldnt be such a good street turbo so i wouldnt consider any larger exhaust AR. Even with the .68 you can get caught just off boost round some slower corners, doesnt take long to build tho.

make sure you sort your diff out, as you want a controllable rear end when it bags them up! A worn out viscous lsd would be a bit sketchy to say the least.

when do you get your tune and whos doing it?

Good to hear the cams don't affect drivability down low.

I'll be getting my tune done next saturday (the 3rd) in Bundaberg QLD by a guy I've known for years - he worked with chiptorque for six years and has tuned more skylines than I've seen so he should be fine.

If I lived in SA I'd go to your tuner though as he's just tuned yours!

Did it take him long to do the mapping for the new cams?

I've been told it takes about four hours to get it all right.

I'll definately look into the diff - I'm not silly though and take it easy on the street.

Cheers

Reading this is really tempting me......this was the turbo I had planned to get orginally.

But after hearing a few cars I was determined to get a larger turbo with a screamer pipe......god I love that sound.

HI Shonen,

The good thing about this kit is you don't have to modify anything - everything just bolts up and if you want no bling (like me) you can even fit the standard airbox.

Screamer pipes sound good for sure but it'd get pretty annoying after awhile - especially if your wastegate opens in front of the police - the perfect way to get a defect.

And fitting a larger turbo on a custom manifold would be a nightmare - there's not that much space there - the only aftermarket exhaust manifold I'd go for would be a cast HKS item or similar.

Cheers

Correct me if i'm wrong, but don't you have to modify the dump for these turbos to just "bolt on"?

Or does the kit come with the modified dump in it?

VV ahh okay, thanks that's what i thought :P

Edited by Beeble

Sorry,

I was talking more about fit up to engine.

The kit comes with its own dump. The only thing that you will have to get is a new pipe made up from the dump outlet to cat. I got it made at my local exhaust shop for $150.

post-12959-1132866674.jpg

Edited by gtst25

hey, i just got a few question for you and SLY33.

So the turbo doesnt come with a gasket for the dump pipe? so you have to make your own correct?

Also with the HKS dump pipe that comes with the turbo (if u buy the kit), does it bolt into the stock dump pipe postion, as i've been looking into these and it looks like it is the same size as i normal dump pipe (in length) so if you have any aftermarket front-pipe that connects to the stock dump pipe, it would fit?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
×
×
  • Create New...