Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

oh and manages13 my block and head machining has taken over 23 weeks alone (NO assembly at all) thanks to those involved 

shit brad the company i have been using will offen do the same day drop off and pickup if i prebook a week or so out B)

DUDE that is one nice list i only cringe at what it must of cost to put together as i know how much it cost for me to get my build together. Can i ask who you are using for the build and tune? and when you might have it on the road?

pete

  • Replies 315
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thats definitely a dream setup.

Very nice pics.

With regards to the rb30det thing.. I think the biggest concern is the height. One big advantage of the 2.7 kits from japland.

But revability... Its got everything to do with gearing and how well the hotside flows. The VL's run a 3.45:1, run that in your Stagea and it too will feel like a big diesel. :(

Edited by Cubes
shit brad the company i have been using will offen do the same day drop off and pickup if i prebook a week or so out B)

DUDE that is one nice list i only cringe at what it must of cost to put together as i know how much it cost for me to get my build together. Can i ask who you are using for the build and tune? and when you might have it on the road?

pete

tuning will be at Racetorque im 99% sure on. they mainly do race cars, and keep quiet in the performance scene in perth. been highly reccomended by another gtr owner with autronics and over 550rwhp.

the build is all done at home, machining hassles where through a few well respected perth shops but failed to show reliability and the shops told me 3 weeks for the block MAX and 2 weeks for head MAX. well im still waiting on the head which has been 12 weeks and the block was 11 weeks :angry:

PM me if u want the name of the shops i used for machining, as i dont want to upset the moderators :)

cost, hmm well im not gonna announce that here, bit over original budget though :lol:

should be in the car by xmas and run-in/tuned by end of january pretty definately. depending on the tuner :)

cheers

Brad

Is anyone else touching themselves looking at those pics?

Adrian

Yes i did...

Wow whats a setup i am jealous...

I think you have done the right thing with the 2.7 kit...

3 litre kits belong in R31's......

Hands down to you Brad, very nice job on your build - all top quality parts there. I'm sure you'll get power with reliability with all that gear.

Good luck with the build and keep us dated on the progress.

thanx guys, well im picking the head up tommorow finally, BUT it isnt assembled as i need shims for the valve springs, cause apparantly the JUN cams are regrind and have a smaller base circle.

so they aint even billet like HKS ones and are regrind from GTR cams. (thats the words of the shop doin the work).

so ive decided we will assemble the head as well, with the help of my uncle who usually does drag engines. shims will be arriving monday next week supposedly.

pretty pissed about the cams but, thought JUN was better than that? B)

does smaller base circle mean they are not as good in making power as a set of hks normal base circle size ones with same degrees and lift?

cheers

Brad

They weren't able to machine up shims?!?!?

The reason for the smaller base circle is to allow for a higher lift without or with very little head modification.

Tomei also uses this method to squeeze out a little more lift.

Edited by Cubes
They weren't able to machine up shims?!?!?

The reason for the smaller base circle is to allow for a higher lift without or with very little head modification.

Tomei also uses this method to squeeze out a little more lift.

no they said the largest shims they had were not big enough and they needed "special" ones made or some shit. sounds like an excuse to charge a shit load of $$$ for f**k all :) gotta be custom made and specially heat treated or something they said.

i took the head off the shop cause they have had it 13-14 weeks to do porting and reassemble, so they ported it and wait till now to check the cams and whether shims r needed and now they delay it another week, plus assembly time. so i told em to not bother and i will do it.

Dont mean to burst your bubble but make sure you get it tuned by a reputable tuner. We tuned a 500hp built 930 Porche TT over here on the Gold Coast. It had been tuned by some guru in Perth that used all of about 5 of 200 available features of an autronic. The car was that rich that it had washed the bores!!!!

I was going to say give Greg at proengines a call about shims, he reshimmed my head and it was a pain in the ass but he got it spot on, with no bullshit. He has posted above me though, so thats obviously where he got the shims from ;)

thanx guys, well im picking the head up tommorow finally, BUT it isnt assembled as i need shims for the valve springs, cause apparantly the JUN cams are regrind and have a smaller base circle.

so they aint even billet like HKS ones and are regrind from GTR cams. (thats the words of the shop doin the work).

so ive decided we will assemble the head as well, with the help of my uncle who usually does drag engines. shims will be arriving monday next week supposedly.

pretty pissed about the cams but, thought JUN was better than that?  B)

does smaller base circle mean they are not as good in making power as a set of hks normal base circle size ones with same degrees and lift?

cheers

Brad

Hi Brad, all of the Jun cams I have seen are billets. They have to use a smaller base circle to get the lift, RB cylinder heads don't have enough room. The Jun instructions and web site both quote the following for all lifts over 10.5 mm;

Clearance of head for cam lobe rotation required.

Special valve spring required.

Special valve retainer required.

The "Special valve retainer required" means the cam has a different (ie; smaller) base circle to standard.

:) cheers :D

There seems to be a few people that are having trouble with machine work being done on their engines, either they are very slow or not done correctly.

Greg at Proengines posts here on the SAU and the work he has done for me has been nothing but exceptional and in a timely fashion. Won't go anywhere else now.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...