Jun 2.7l Stroker Build Underway (hks T04z)

[Col-GTSX]

How did it go???

[Cubes]

CruiseLiner,

What oil do you plan on running?

No doubt only the best full Ester high in Molly, Phosphorus & Zinc?

[Col-GTSX]

Dont forget the vitamin 'C' Cubes.... LOL

[CruiseLiner]

well if u read the other thread in the stagea section, i said its not finished today, maybe tommorow as the wiring of the cdi has had a few issues thanks to ray hall and his wrong farkin wiring diagrams, the guy should be shot putting misleading wiring info on the official autronic.com website, costs more money cause i gotta get the shop to rewire it as the outputs r all wrong etc even though i followed the diagram.

i gotta say the internet has soooo much bullshit info on it, its not funny, and damn misleading, especially from proper workshops

all in all ill get it sorted and hoping for a good cruise on the weekend to clock up the 1000km.

im using castrol gtx mineral oil in for the initial tune/run in and then i dont know after that as i havent even thought about it

whats the reccomendations for oil brand/types and run in oil change intervals? what amount of km's do i need to change oil/filter? any extra info appreciated

cheers

Brad

Edited March 16, 2006 by CruiseLiner

[WetGTR]

A while back I was saying that the wiring diagram was wrong, warned you about it.

How did you wire it up?

What was the ignition out's numbers and input numbers from the ECU to CDI?

I had 1 week of pulling my hair out and a dyno tune that was waisted cause of this.

Don't dispair Brad, all can be sorted and this is the reason I get real nervous on dyno days, always scared of crap popping up but you have to put it down to part of the build.

[Cubes]

Motul 300v is most definitely good stuff (ester, high in molly, zinc etc); depending on the clearances and driving style will determine the visc you run. Only way to really know is by oil analysis.

Latest api car oils = low levels of anti wear to extend cat converter life at the expense of engine wear, super low vis = less resistence for improved fuel economy.

Note how Motul 300v doesn't list specifications or maker approvals, but you do pay for all the goodies it contains.

[Beer Baron]

I like the motul 300V oils. i use the chrono in my RB26. it's 10W40, full synthetic ester.

[Sydneykid]

well if u read the other thread in the stagea section, i said its not finished today, maybe tommorow as the wiring of the cdi has had a few issues thanks to ray hall and his wrong farkin wiring diagrams, the guy should be shot putting misleading wiring info on the official autronic.com website, costs more money cause i gotta get the shop to rewire it as the outputs r all wrong etc even though i followed the diagram.

i gotta say the internet has soooo much bullshit info on it, its not funny, and damn misleading, especially from proper workshops

all in all ill get it sorted and hoping for a good cruise on the weekend to clock up the 1000km.

im using castrol gtx mineral oil in for the initial tune/run in and then i dont know after that as i havent even thought about it

whats the reccomendations for oil brand/types and run in oil change intervals? what amount of km's do i need to change oil/filter? any extra info appreciated

cheers

Brad

Hi Brad, I am sure I have PM'd you our standard run in procedure, but for the other readers;

Castrol GTX (the basic no frills mineral oil) with new filter.

Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm.

Change oil filter. Engines can have particles in them that acccumulate during the build/maching proces and they need to be removed from the engine ASAP, these are caught in the oil filter. If you leave them in, the oil filter can get blocked and so will be bypassed.

Check basic tune on the dyno or on the road with portable lambda sensor.

Drive to Bathurst and back, lots of varying conditions, up and down hills, freeway, long climbs etc

Refill with Castyrol Formula R Synthetic, new oil filter. I use 10W60 in all of my own engines.

Do leak down test, if OK then final tune on the dyno.

Go racing

Cheers

[Cubes]

Definitely change the oil filter after the initial start.

I cut mine open and freaked out what was floating around.

[lwells]

If I can hijack ever so slightly -- but on a related matter... With a bunch of new gaskets (for example, with a new engine build, or new turbo install) is it best to leave the engine at idle until all the smoke has cleared (ie. the gaskets have sealed; probably 10-15 mins) or is there a better way to get things to seal (drive around at low revs, or drive around normally, etc)?

[Sydneykid]

If I can hijack ever so slightly -- but on a related matter... With a bunch of new gaskets (for example, with a new engine build, or new turbo install) is it best to leave the engine at idle until all the smoke has cleared (ie. the gaskets have sealed; probably 10-15 mins) or is there a better way to get things to seal (drive around at low revs, or drive around normally, etc)?

New gaskets should never leak, the smoke is usually the result of engine assembly lubricant making its way into the combustion process. Oil burning off the hot components and rings not yet sealing. Idle is not a good description, more like no load, maybe around 2,000 rpm. Driving is not good, stuff happens fast and you can get stuck somewhere.

cheers

Edited March 17, 2006 by Sydneykid

[Cubes]

Idle is not a good description, no load, maybe around 2,000 rpm. Driving is not good, stuff happens fast and you can get stuck somewhere.

Like forgetting to tighten up the turbo's inside water banjo, resulting in a lot of my nice new coolant dumped in the pit.

On the topic of coolant, next service I will be going genuine coolant, I checked out the price while I was in nissan last. Its a similiar price as the usual aftermarket gear.

[CruiseLiner]

well not ready till monday now, god damn im spewing and ready to kill someone but thats the shit i have been putting up with since day 1 of this build, and hopefully monday they finish the damn wiring and start it or im gonna go insane

so with the oil filter change after 1/2 hour, do i still leave the same batch of castrol gtx in the motor for the first 1000km or does it get changed with the filter?

[jaik]

For the sake of a $25k engine, $50 worth of oil isnt going to hurt ya to swap

JK

[CruiseLiner]

For the sake of a $25k engine, $50 worth of oil isnt going to hurt ya to swap

JK

why swap it after just idling? sydneykid said only the filter change so i was just asking if thats all he recomends to do

im not trying to save money, i just want it to be right and last

and its abit more than 25k too

lets just say its a damn money pit and i wanna use what ive spent all my money on soon dammit

[Col-GTSX]

Id do the first 1000kms on the same oil.

Just change the filter due to machining waste and little bits of fluf round the engine internally.

I personally run Motul 8100 turbolight and it seems like any other...

But i am planning on changing to 300V 10-60 next change...

5000kms i believe is good for regular changes and i do the filter every 2 so 10,000km's...

I buy (forgot the brand) the filter with the magnet in it to catch any little filings and you would be supprised how much crap it will pick up.

If you decide to change oil brands or types i always do the filter also as it holds a bit of oil...

[Cubes]

I did 3 changes from memory, possibly more within the first 1000km's.

The oil was always dropped when a new filter went on.

Overkill yes but hell... I spent enough money on the motor I really didn't care as the run in oil was cheap.

[CruiseLiner]

cheers guys for the info, most helpful.

so what oil filter do u reccomend? genuine nissan or ryco or what?

thanx again

Brad

[WetGTR]

I run the engine idling for 30min on GTX oil with new Nissan filter

drop the oil and filter

Refill with GTX oil again and new Nissan filter and drive for 500km

Drop oil and filter again and refill with Castrol 10W60 and another Nissan Oil filter

Change filter and oil every 5000km

[rev210]

As a guide for oil changing in the future once run in;

* discard the 5,000km rule of thumb. It doesn't really make sense to follow a rule that applys to a stock motor and normal driving conditions. If you are going to 'use' the power consider how much faster your increased output is going to kill the oil than a stock motor.

* Discard oil and filter after any strangle session on the dyno (lots of full power runs hurt the oil).

* Discard the oil sooner in relation to how often youare using maximum power.

* Discard engine oil /filter , diff and trans oils straight after a day at the races. Put new stuff in before you even go there. Consider it cheap insurance. Nothing like the people who do a good 4,900kms on exsisting oil think a day at the track or drags is worth the risk becasue they are under this 5,000km interval (think about that one and you realise how profoundly dumb it is).

* Discard the oil sooner if you are drivning in hot weather.

* Discard the oil sooner if you are drivning in dusty envrionments

I would be rather suprised if you should go much past 2,000kms an oil change as an average if you motor is seeing that power on even the rare occasion.

Bearing and ring replacement might be once a year or sooner, depending on how much power gets used , how often and in what environment.Hopefully someone has already prepared you for that one.