Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just bought myself a 1993 r33 gts-t in what I thought was mint condition. It looked great, sounded sweet with the hegh flow cat and 3" cat back hks exhaust. It wasn't till I got it home that I found out the knob 2 owners ago had overboosted the standard turbo and melted the wheels. I had to pay a bucketload to get new steel wheels, new housing, and wastegate actuator and while I was at it I got it high flowed. Next came the dump pipe. It was at that stage I found a massive power loss at about 4500-6000 rpm. After exhaustive search on the net and lots of trial and error i found out the AFM was shot. Thats getting fixed now and I have run into my next dilemma, WHAT TO WASTE MY MONEY ON NEXT...

I know I need a fmic but need to know what is best and on the cheap having spent way too much already.

Is bar/plate better or tube/fin design. I also want to do the install myself as my mech "friend" has already taken about a month to get everything sorted (In total I have only driven the car for about 2 weeks and am sick of my POS ford laser).

Any suggestions would help.

My mods are:

High flowed steel wheel standard turbo

3" stainless dump pipe

High flow cat

3" HKS cat back exhaust

Turbosmart Boost controller (only running standard boost until afm fixed)

All the rest is standard atm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99114-whats-the-best-cheap-fmic/
Share on other sites

There's nothing wrong with the hybrid copy intercooler. Pick one of those up for approximately $170 delivered to your door step and then take your selection at a piping kit which would cost you a further $350 or so. Either that or look on Ebay for some of the packages they offer

i like these coolers and piping.. there hybird coolers.. custem made pipeing.. give them a call!

http://www.advancedjapautoimports.com.au/intercoolers.html

Edited by DriftSquad

You had the turbo "highflowed", then fitted a decent dump and at that stage this power loss occured between 4500-6000rpm.

How positive are you that the cause is the AFM? Because it sounds like a textbook case of the ecus rich and retard strategy.

Did you try turning the boost down? Did it still happen?

Thanks for the info guys.

I am 100% positive it is the afm cuz the problem disappeared when I borrowed a mates s1 afm.

Boost is currently at standard.

I only noticed this problem after getting the turbo done because it was so badly screwed, especially the wastegate bleeding boost thanks to the busted actuator.

Gtr coolers are ridiculously overpriced for what they are imo. Just like every other gtr part. I mean, sure, it's proven that it's OK.

BUT why buy a gtr cooler for 250-400$ which could be a 15 year old POS when you can buy a 2nd hand apexi cooler with the 90degree return bend for like $350 (I've got one).

be careful, some cheap china kits wont fit in skylines.

I had one which had instructions to bend bits of the chassis to fit the piping. err no lol

I also have heard some horror stories like that. Dodgy kits that dont fit except if you cut and bend things are not my best choice. Heard of some guy who had to cut up his fan to make it fit. Not a good idea. Also is it worth getting a forward facing intake plenum or are they a waste of money?

Hopefully I will finally be getting my baby back today. I miss her so much even though she was almost as slow as my laser (I got beaten by a magna sports!! argh). Have to smoke my mate who owns an 88 supercharged mr2. shouldn't be too hard, hehe.

I would keep an eye out for better quality but second had kits, I got a HKS cooler plus piping for $600. Admittedly that was no cheaper than some of the hybrid copies but I was really patting myself on the back when I was able to fit it in around an hour due to the fact that every part was absouluteley mm perfect

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...