Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea D I Y's, How To's, & F Y I's


Techo

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys, Pom here.

Is there any info about draining and refilling the coolant system?

I seem to have some very nasty rusty looking water in my Stag and would like some info before i drop it all out.

Just how to refill and bleed the system would be great.

This site is brilliant for Stag info.

Cheers

Sy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys, Pom here.

Is there any info about draining and refilling the coolant system?

I seem to have some very nasty rusty looking water in my Stag and would like some info before i drop it all out.

Just how to refill and bleed the system would be great.

This site is brilliant for Stag info.

Cheers

Sy.

Here is a picture of the bleed valve - mine has a little tag on it that says "never open when hot(courtesy of SK):

Cam_Belt_Air_Bleed_Small.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you :)

Is it just a case of taking the bottom hose off and draining it ?

I have seen the little cross headed screw thingy on the rad but after reading how they break then i'd rather take the hose off. I seem to have a little leak underneath the inlet manifold that's dripping onto the oil filter, Is there anything around there that's common for leaking ?

Also what kind of coolant to use ?

I got no service history or booklets with this car ( Big gamble huh !) So im literally flying blind at the mo.

Didn't stop me doing the high boost mod and chucking the Apexi filter on today though .. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

hey all i am new here have a rs4 97 had nothing but dramas since i bought it (not to the cars fault) had some drunk hit me in the rear 2400 for standard bar so the joy begain body kit (from monkey warehouse) all the prep that go's with it and then the fiting was bodgie after hours of work had to go with the best i could do was not happy and the the frount mount done with no effort at all and then the elec boost controller then was happy with the over all performance of the wgn even with the 4-5 coil pack miss unitl now was not that badthis is a family car if the idiot had not hit me it would still be stock execpt cat back. i have 9 month old twins and cant stand commodore's hance the stagea. the miss seems to be the coil packs i only run 7psi in it as i cant go any higher has any one fixed this prob with just new coil packs or do i just go and get fuel cut as well would like to run 10psi or higher (for when i am on my own) i am prepared so spendthe money for coil packs but that is it as it needs new suspension and need to save mu pennys

i would also like to thank everyone for this godly place would still be licking wounds if it was not for all the info found hear when ever i am in doubt i come STRAIGHT hear and find much comfort..

again many THANKZ to you all

will give my system a flush now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Coil packs are expensive. have you checkd your plugs? Get a set of coppers gapped to 0.8mm (NGK BCPR7ES-8 are pre-gapped). If that doesn't fix it try to borrow some coils before you fork out for new ones (Yellow jackets seem to be as good as the splitfires but cheaper).

As for the tuning get an Apexi SAFC (old cheap one will do) and if you can find one an SITC for the timing.

BTW if you do a search on coil packs you'll find lots of ideas for insulating them with tape or epoxy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yer done the epoxy thing but they mere leaking spark everywhere i have a mate that can get spitfire's cheap (for me) how regular do you think i should gap my plgs??

What is SAFC and do they cost, and easy to install??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well annually should be fine for plugs but sounds as though you may need coil.

SAFC is fo adjusting air/fuel ratios .. will overcome rich/retard (what you were referring to as fuel/boost cut.

Basic models are $100 -$200 there is a flash one with blue screen in the skyline parts for sale of this website

Google Apexi SAFC for more info

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks heapswill ask my mate if he can get me one aswell as the coil's.....

are you born and breed in nz??

i am from kaitaia(though born in aussie so got the best of both worlds a convict and kiwi)

wife is from d'urville island.

the coil packs seem to bee the most common thing that stops boost is this right??

is this just because they are crap[ or is there a tech reason they cant handle boost??

will spend the rest of the night catchin up on SAFC

many thanx again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
I remember someone put some DIY intercooler cleaning but can't find it anywhere, think they had half and half mix of turpentine and metho from memory with a rinse of water at the end. I read on some other site people using vacuums to dry them out.
Yes its in the DIY sticky>intercoolers>>R34GTT i/c into stagea (and its kerosene and meths).
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

(Yellow jackets seem to be as good as the splitfires but cheaper).

Don't buy the rip off splitfires (yellow jackets/Just Jap/Red jackets etc) as they're a poor substitute. The voltage output is all over the show and the latency is very slow. They also don't seem to last to long either.

Origional or Splitfires.

Cheers

Justin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
    • curious to know what drivers you chose and the results? quik mafs, says two 6.5s should roughly equate somewhere between a single 8" or 10" driver. i agree that IB is definitely the way to go in most cars imo.
    • S13 and R32 rear suspension geometry is horrible once you lower it (which everyone does). The camber & toe out ramp is very aggressive, hence it's common for the S13 boys/girls to use a S14 or S15 subframe as the geometry is light years ahead. I'm sure the same can be done on R32s, but I don't know anyone that has done that.
×
×
  • Create New...