colourclassic

Buy the VR already and get this underway!

Nothing wrong with BC's. I just wouldn't buy them second hand.

I'd want to remove/inspect the upper spring retainer/top hat. Check for play in pillow ball. Next remove springs and check damper for scoring or pitting on damper rod. Also check dust seals (you won't be able to see oil control seals). Any dampness = bad. Compress the damper and check for squelching or bubbling sounds. Also check lateral free-play of damper rod. Ensure damper rebounds to full length without assistance. Check all adjusters through their range of motion. For $800 I'd be so much more inclined to shell out an extraa $400 and get new ones.

Well there's an extra ~70kg placed in the driver seat when the car is moving so that could be a contributing factor. Does it do it when evenly loaded? Are you sure it is hitting the guard and isn't another noise/suspension knock? If the suspension is bottoming out so easily then that clearly points to a damper control issue, or incorrect spring rates.

Running a fine razor blade over them close to perpendicular to the surface usually gets most residue off. Then Ajax or glass cleaner. I'm not sure you're going to be able to 'polish out' any chips/scratches etc.

Search up 'zaklee' on eBay.

I seem to have this issue as well. Clanking and clunking when going over speed humps or moderate road imperfections. I'm running Bilstein B6 Dampers and King Springs. Rather than a dull thud, the car makes more of a 'crashing' sound for lack of a better term, when going over bumps.

If he can pull it off it would be awesome, but it seems like a huge amount of money and time wasted, when there are proven options available which have been done time and time again, with good results and at lower costs. Chuck a Turbo LS into it if you want big RWD power and low-end torque. It will cost a quarter of the VR38.

Location?

The task of aligning the engine's front driveshafts laterally, longitudinally and vertically to meet the GT-R's half shafts, while making the engine and transmission fit would be hard enough. Then you have to consider front diff ratios most likely being different to the Rb26's, meaning custom crown and pinion ratios etc blah blah $$$$$$$ Has the OP ever been in a RB30 powered Skyline? Or even a running RB26? Why do you seem to need more power/torque than pretty much every other Skyline owner ever?

Biggest hurdle will be turning the front wheels with that engine, if it even fits in the engine bay. Edit: When I said hurdle I really meant clusterf*ck. Even making it work as a 2wd would be difficult and pointless enough.

More concerned about availability and clogging injectors etc. I'll fit a new clutch in fairly soon.

Yep just on BP98. Still weighing up whether e85 is practical enough.

Just finished installing my 21U high flow and had it tuned by Trent: Much happier with the performance of this turbo compared with the OP6 variant I had last time. As you can see, full boost is achieved by under 3,500rpm and I got 100rwkw at just over 3,000rpm. My car's clutch began slipping towards the end of the tune, so Trent backed the power off; it could have made 260-270rwkw with more boost. It's currently making 248rwkw at ~16psi. It feels better than my OP6 did at 20psi and 270rwkw, probably due to the wider spread of power/torque. Big ups to Stao for this turbo and for putting up with my constant calls,visits and questions!

Clean and flow test yours, should cost less than $150.

^The only thing I'd be worried about is heat soak, not boost control.

Pull the circlip off the wastegate pin and check that there is about 5mm (half a hole) of preload. Start checking hose clamps and silicone joiners. I use a JJR return flow cooler and dump pipe, they are not the cause of your problems unless installed incorrectly.

Any decent 100cpsi cat is not going to cause that large a restriction. Maybe 5 or 10kw, not 50.

I don't think the advantages of a EBC are drastic enough to correct a ~50rwkw deficit. My TurboTech made 270rwkw no worries at 19psi and held it perfectly on an OP6 highflow.

It's very easy to tell. On side feed rails the injector heads protrude past the rail and are retained with caps. On the top-feed rail of the Neo the injectors are retained by the rail i.e. the rail is the highest point. The SR uses a side feed rail and it looks similar to non-Neo RB25's.

Location?

Too many sexy cars in this thread

RB25 Neo takes top feed dude...

Stock GT-R injectors? Gts-t 370's would never get that far...

You can tell they're genuine by the orange strapping on the sensor body and the part number, no need to cut these open!