Butters

It's a lottery, no one is going to be able to predict how much HP YOUR engine is going to handle as history has a huge part to play. As examples though. I have one rb26 on 630rwhp, running 16 years now at that level, track use, only a couple of times a year. Another 790rwhp, about 2 years now, driven every weekend. If i was to give you a "safe" number I would say 450rwhp on 98 and 550-600 on e85. Seen plenty of motors pop with less though too

Fair play on the 120k, sorry just live in nanny Aus. High rpm on cruise would kill me too. On the gears, its not just first, so beside the fact I really enjoy that nice punch you get when you accel in first. 2nd is all messed up in the gearsets too. Most people I know with gearsets(even sequentials) have to drop into 1st for tarmac rally slower corners as second gear is too low in rpm, its painful. Translate to the street, I am using a 2.3 gear out of a low speed turn, gearset you got a 1.7 second. I can tell you now between my two cars which one is a LOT more fun. On a track its a different story, once the car is moving the gearset ratios are supreme, 1st gets you going on a big rpm launch, then 2nd is no issue for the corner speed on most tracks. Yer the price sucks , old enough to remember these selling for $1500usd here in Aus.

Counter opinon. Having both an OS gearset car and the getrag 6 speed, will take the 6 speed for the street all day long thanks. First gear on most gear sets are ASS, the bloody gear you spend heaps of time in on the street too. I run the 4.11 and it is fine at 110, (not sure who gets to do 120) I do find the gears a little short and doing a 3.89 setup. Anyway back to your question, running stock LSD rear, love it. Tried an S15 helical rear, it was aweful. In the process of doing a quaife front on advice as part of the 3.89. Seems like a good option. Let you know Car is 800awhp and mostly street.

The only logic and I know this is flawed to my staged pumps is the chance of detecting a pump failure. With both running all the time if one dies you won't know. With one primary if that dies you know, the second yes will be a mystery but at least you have a 50% chance ? Either way though safeties are super important in dual setups. I've wondered about putting an Amp meter on as extra safety but then you just should buy a PDM

using a map with TPS and duty cycle with a slight delay on the off. The second pump only really needs to come on when flat out. PWM is interesting, are you using a solid state relay ?

Cams are not needed at this power level, they will create lag. The cam gears are a good idea though.

2530 is a 250-300whp turbo on 98, So x 2 , take some tax as you have two and that is your answer. You tend to have to have the boost pretty high in twin setup, which is not great for U98 as heat kicks in quick. As above though, more injector is going to get you more but you need to be realistic with a older twin setup on 98 fuel. Cool as heck but not the best way to make power these days.

10-15 years ago, the answer would always be buy a good import motor and so many machine shops make.a hash of an engine rebuild, or they think they are some sort of RB magicians and want 40k. Now as others have stated, you are buying a VERY old used motor. So rebuild is the correct answer. Just finding a machine shop that will both do a good job and charge you a regular price is now your challenge.

I was looking into the uniclutch, as something that doesn't rattle, dampens and holds horsepower is the dream. They didn't seem super confident on the power holding though. Could just be covering themselves, which is understandable. "The 10in sport Uniclutch can handle a peak of 1100Nm at the flywheel, not sure how that translates to HP. As for the power output of your engine, I would suggest holding for the UniClutch Track, I feel the 1000HP will have a higher torque rating then what the Sport will be able to handle, We have fitted prototype track clutches to a number of street/track test vehicles now and have found pedal effort to be reasonable. It is very similar to OE pedal feel. and would fall within the torque capacity of the Uniclutch Track." The track clutch loses the dampening and rattles(?) I believe though.... don't quote me

I'd be re-doing the head gasket check(Combustion leak), can be very subtle and given how long it takes to overheat, likely a small break in the head gasket. Agree the gktech fan needs to go but assuming you are in brizzy it should hold up to 25degree weather. Out of the 5 or so times I've had this problem, only once was I lucky enough to have a stuck thermostat. The rest, pull the head off fun times. I hope for you this is a lucky one

Seems bang on to me , g30-900 will make 900 crank on e85(on paper). Deduct ~25% for 98 and you are at 675 crank. Run that to the wheels and fact you are only running 26psi you end up about your number. People forget how magic E85 is now that just about everyone is running it. "Back in the day" you had to be north of 30psi on a 850+hp turbo to get 600 at the wheels on 98.

I've never seen this on a factory built RB26 have the screws come out, or gears break for that fact. Only once someone has touched the motor have I heard / seen it. I've seen a few factory built Rb25's shatter gears but we talking high mileage extreme beating at drift track, constant limiter for a full season. Well outside what it was built for.

Over the moon in fact. Engine is coming out to put on a new enlarged sump. I planned on putting on either a new pump(Tomei / Nitto) or billet gears. But a bit of waste of time if the crank has narrow collar. Things spiral quickly, if crank is out, new bearings ... maybe new rods and pistons ... wait just rebuild the engine... oh but I should get an N1 block .... 40k later .... haha.

THANKS ! Sequential at times but overall Incremental is probably a better way to state it. Chassis numbers with Nissan's are like that too, jump when a change of some kind occurs. Bit of a surprise to find out that despite being a 32 RB26, it's most likely the better crank. Winner Winner.

found this on the forum , suggests I am in the range ----------------------------- From the segmented (potentially incorrect) information I've found that; Early R32: RB26000XXXX to RB26002XXXX Mid R32: RB26003XXXX (V-Spec I RB26-03XXXXX - Reference Classic Register) Late R32: RB26004XXXX (V-Spec II RB26-042XXXX - RB26-045XXXX - Reference Classic Register) Early R33: RB26005XXXX Mid R33: RB26006XXXX (as per the engine in this R32 V-Spec II, which is what I'm concerned about from legitimacy perspective) Late R33: RB26007XXXX Early R34 (2000+): RB26008XXXX ----------------------

Now as I understand it the engine numbers are sequential for the rb26. EG stamped - RB26040100A is a 40,100 engine. Now they made between 1988 and 1994 43,834 R32 GTR's In 1994 they made 7,464 r32 gtr's. So if you have a ~37,000++ number RB26 it's "safe" ish to assume its an 1994 motor and a long nose crank ? The long nose crank being introduced somewhere in Feb of 1993.

I've read that before, really good article. However my ~900hp+ at flywheel, means it can be done. Also have tested it with one pump on only, does what you'd expect, near 700's flywheel. No disagreement that i will have horrible pressure drop compared to what it would be on a bigger lines. I can also overwhelm the regulator / return line at low HP consumption with both on, but I don't do that, so no issue So horribly inefficient but it works really well for the 10 seconds or so the second pump is on.

So what did you end up doing ? and is it still alive today ?

I run 2 x 525 pumps on factory 8mm fuel lines ... zero issues, staged of course Your setup should work fine, all you need to do is find the restriction. A good aftermarket fuel regulator is always a good idea too. If it's not your regulator i'd be suspicious of your fuel tank breather and your tank pressurising. Next would be something with the fuel hat. Then blow out the fuel lines.

Clearly this is just a "ME" problem

For some reason I find myself removing the rear diff often. The top two back bolts that go into the diff to hold the attesa pump in place are just a PAIN. Has anyone mounted the attesa pump to the subframe instead of diff ? Also thinking about trying a stud on one of them to help locate. Other idea's ? or tricks ?

Yes Rb26 I am using an Ignite 5.0 bottom/crank trigger on the ATI and will be doing the same on the ROSS. On one setup I have VCAM so using that sensor as the top/cam trigger. *cough Toyota style ... *cough On the other I am using an Ignite 5.0 cam trigger. I also use link ecu too, so once you get sync, the ecu runs completely off the crank. You can literally unplug the cam sensor once started. I get zero trigger issues and drive the car weekly.

36-2 balancer is the biz. Personally prefer it over a gear with teeth. I run an ATI 36-2 custom wheel on my street car as it has Aircon Putting a ross 36-2 on my race car, no AC. I'll look up the company that did the ATI if your interested, sit down price though

If you want a 4inch muffler check out SP Mufflers. After some advice I got on here I reached out to them. Made me 2 custom mufflers in 4inch in and out to suit my probably one of the few Cefiro with 4inch exhaust. Super easy to deal with and it is super quite, maybe too quite. They can make to suit you though. https://www.instagram.com/spmufflers/

It's always been my policy but I have no comparison motor without one to compare it to. As others have said, the one on your motor is also for sure trashed by now.