GTRsean

I don't usually get ebay gear, just my choice. I've had a metal cat (barrel type) fall to bits on my last car, and it was a well known one too. Don't think an ebay one would handle it! Yep HKS actuators. Came with crush washers, zip ties, hose, t piece, instructions and yellow jap stickers lol. I'm very happy with the Rota's, considering they only cost me $1300, not including tyres. Would of liked more dish, and they would look better if I lowered the car I'd love some advans or similar, but don't have $3800+ handy The only thing I had to get was hub rings to center the wheels on the hub. If the stock wheels had an offset of +12 I wouldn't need the rota's!

Got the wastegate actuators and fitted em up. Was a real pain to do as there is no room, but all good now. Also got a hold of a nismo cat converter to help free up the exhaust a bit more. I'll fit it up when I can be bothered crawling under the car again. Sway bars have been ordered in too.

PM sent an hour ago.....

Ceramic plate is shite, we had one in a 180sx, and managed to weld it to the flywheel twice, once at the drags and some other time. Had to pull box off to pry plate off the flywheel, second time I shock loaded it to break it free. So I'm not a big fan of the ceramic types now Another cause could be heat buildup, causing the clutch plate to warp with heat and cause lack of full disengagement. That will cause hard shifting etc. My last 32GTR I had, I bought a extreme carbon fibre twin plate clutch, car was running 350RWKW or so, was a great clutch. My other favorite was an os gikken twin plate spring centre clutch. The input shaft snout needs to be machined down though.

Keep in mind that the GTR hub assy's are cast aluminum, and don't tend to bend, they fracture or get micro fractures. One way of checking is to use a dye penetrant to check for damage. I'd rather change, and have changed hubs that have taken a big hit, than take a chance and have it let go doing 110km down the highway or around a corner etc and be up for thousands or write off the car.

Most likely will attend.

Had these. Awesome parts, and a bargain price!!! I paid $800 brand new a few years ago.

Go the 2860-5's or 2530's......

A pic of mine with 18x9.5 +12 offset with 265 35 R18 tyres. On stock suspension.

Cool cool. I have a mate that has a stockish white R32GTR v spec. Pretty clean with original wheels. But I'm sure Steveo's would be nicer!!

Check your battery voltage when running? Alternator problem? They are pretty reliable units, considering the age of a lot of cars out there now. Still running original coil packs? Good luck!

OOh OOh, can I come lol!

Spotted a black R33 GTS-T, HUSTL3R, with a GTR badge on the side, on the Northern RD Penrith this morning. Take that badge off!!! you are cheapening the legend!! or buy a real GTR!

Thanks for the kind words! Yeah, a lot of time and effort spent on it too! Hows Canberra going for you? Read a bit about you project on DRN motorcars folder too, and loved how people did not have a clue what engine you had!

slloetteR would have something out soon. It's an RB2630DE, and will soon be reborn and rebuilt with 290deg cams or something crazy big sump etc. So should out do it's previous 150RWKW on stock 26 cams.

Diy FTW!!! I do everything myself! in a shed, and yes I wish I had a hoist. I took my bearing to a workshop to get pressed off, but thats it.

GRRRRRRR!!! Yep, you are right, so much moneys gone!!! But the 34 is a very nice drive.......

I was thinking 250-260RWKW at the most. Wow is all I can say.

I have changed a front and rear wheel bearing assy on my R32. The back is a lot easier than the front! The rear ones are held in by 4 bolts and a large nut. Take cv joint nut off driveshaft, jack up back of car Take off brake caliper and disc rotor, (make sure handbrake is off) Undo and remove all suspension links from the hub unit (alloy bit) remove coilover too either push driveshaft though the spindle, or unbolt from diff and remove completely Remove the hand brake shoes, adjusters etc, and the bearing spindle assy cans be clearly seen take out 4 bolts and the large nut on the back of the hub assy remove spindle/bearing assy. The spindle will have to be pressed out of bearing assy, then inner shell removed and spindle cleaned. Press spindle onto new bearing assy (I used a vice), making sure it goes on straight. put it all back together I recommend that you get the relevant torques too to make sure everything is done up to spec, locktite etc. Especially the cv joint nut. Cheers.

yes you do. They are a great event to go to, unless you have a 34GTR and the place has a 2wd dyno, pain in the ass!

I had the push type clutch in my R32 1992, I have broken three gboxes and clutch related hardware too . I had a few clutch disengagement problems over the years due to, (not at the same time) Broken clutch fork Stuffed slave cylinder broken clutch fork pivot point stud. input shaft housing snout rubbing on os gikken pressure plate (snout needs to be machined if running twin, tripple plate os clutches).

Some sort of powered 4 wheel vehicle is preferable.

So close to being road registered woot. Hmm maybe some 10 inch wide wheels out the back to aid in traction and toughness.

My friend does photography as a hobby, she doesn't do cars, but took some of mine.

Spotted a black R33 GTR looked fat, heading towards Richmond this arvo.