niZmO_Man

Time to run some 20's brah!

Seems like a lot of effort. How low is your car? I run 18x10+20 with 275/35 tyres, rolled all guards, approx -2.5° front -1.5° rear cambers.

Or sticking pistons.

I'll help. Don't buy them. Look for 18x8.5+35 18x9.5+38 wheels. Nismo wheels comes in this size

Please provide license and rego numbers, and also any fully sick videos/other evidence.

I'd love an R33 GT-R, I think they look cool (pumped guards FTW), plus Gran Turismo memories. They are also better engineered. But R34 is the dream car, now it's at dream prices sigh. Anyone wanna swap R32 for R33? lol

From my internet research, 420mm x 40mm front rotors.

800hp RB25/30 drift daily driver whut, crazy Swedes... What's wrong with helical cut gears? Or are you after straight cut whine?

GG it's already standstill in the mornings because of merging/red lights.

Not really. If it goes above half, it means pull over and start hosing your radiator .

Funny I had the exact problem when I swapped my stocker BM50 for a HFM BM57. No fluid going out of the rear calipers (I "bench bled" the new master and it pushed fluid out all ports). So yeah, check your master.

I think I should write off owning a 34R now, those prices are ridiculous.

Should put a TRD Camry engine in.

What if you wind your Nismo speedo forward like I did?

I haven't used grease either. One time I didn't even use shims. Issue had always been fixed by re-bedding or getting the rotors machined.

Holinger, OS Giken, X-Trac, PPG (Pfitzner, no the paint company), what else...

You still have the radio, right?

Which QFM pad? All mine have been silent after re-bedding them, first time out they make noise. RDA rotors as well, don't need expensive stuff

I think Nissan posted realistic MPG in the US and "car reviewers" were give them shit for it. Lel idiots.

http://justjap.com/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r34-99-02.html

http://justjap.com/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r34-99-02.html 330mm 6 piston, job done

As usual, it's more complicated than it seems. 32psi is for putting around town with your family. I recommend 36psi for daily drivers, I run 38-40 depending on season/weather/tyre. Cheap tyres generally need at least 40psi to get some grip out of it.

RE Spacers: There are bolt-on (min 15mm I believe) and slip-on, which is just a piece metal with holes in it. Hub centric means the hub hole is manufactured so it sits on your hub properly, instead of having a generic size (73mm or something). The bolt-on spacers I've seen are hub centric (e.g. GKTech, meaning the hub hole is 66.1mm Nissan size). Lipping/rolling isn't that hard, just get a heat gun to heat up paint and a roller (I bought an ebay one from Adelaide for $180-ish). Need patience and good smooth movements.

A1RM seem to be okay on my rotors. RDA plain rotors are cheap enough

My Lib came with KU19, noisy and not that not much grip, but I'm a bit spoilt as my GT-R had FK452 then RS-3. Not sure how old the tyres were though. I'd rather drive on Kumho than Nankang though lol. RE050 are on a different (more expensive) level compared to the ones you listed. I had some second hand ones on the front of my R31, best street tyre I've ever driven on (RE040 aren't too shabby either).