niZmO_Man

RE Spacers: There are bolt-on (min 15mm I believe) and slip-on, which is just a piece metal with holes in it. Hub centric means the hub hole is manufactured so it sits on your hub properly, instead of having a generic size (73mm or something). The bolt-on spacers I've seen are hub centric (e.g. GKTech, meaning the hub hole is 66.1mm Nissan size). Lipping/rolling isn't that hard, just get a heat gun to heat up paint and a roller (I bought an ebay one from Adelaide for $180-ish). Need patience and good smooth movements.

A1RM seem to be okay on my rotors. RDA plain rotors are cheap enough

My Lib came with KU19, noisy and not that not much grip, but I'm a bit spoilt as my GT-R had FK452 then RS-3. Not sure how old the tyres were though. I'd rather drive on Kumho than Nankang though lol. RE050 are on a different (more expensive) level compared to the ones you listed. I had some second hand ones on the front of my R31, best street tyre I've ever driven on (RE040 aren't too shabby either).

36-40psi

You don't have to worry about speed ratings as you don't drive >110 km/h. Keep an eye out on ebay/forums as sometimes you can find good tyres going cheap. I will never recommend Nankang, I bought some cheap 17" wheels once (how said that forged Volks go for less than $1k) with had near new NS-2 fitted, was shit in the dry and downright dangerous in the wet. Only drove it for a few days because I was waiting to get good tyres on my 18" R34 wheels. But I guess if you're desperate it'll do. See if you can get Kumho (KU31), they should be priced around that much. Don't even get me started on shit alignment jobs...

If the wheels stick outside the guards, they don't really "fit" do they? Up to CarterIvy if he/she wants to get points with stance nation and/or the Police or not.

I had a feeling 330mm is about as large as you can get under a generous 17". Subaru STi brakes are 326mm from memory and live under 17" wheels.

My A1RMs are silent after initial bed in and subsequent squealing (roughened the surface and bedded it in again). Aren't the Resma pads rated lower then A1RM?

How come so cheap?

My system is rigid (heh) so no flex in the front pipe. No issues unless I'm pounding (heh) curbs at a race track. I did break the rear dump pipe gasket after unintentionally hitting a retarded speed hump with the front pipe.

So wheels stick outside guards.

Wow I should sell my Nismo horns.

Crap tyres brah. Sometimes tyre shops keeps good second hand ones (I got Advan sports for $100, they were in good condition).

He said he put a genuine thermostat in. Isn't the R33 temp gauge normalised like the R32? It should at half if so. Pull out the thermostat and inspect it. If it's closed, drop it in hot water, it should open.

Heat gun and hammer. Worked for me *shrugs*.

As soon as I win lotto.

Ah sorry I don't keep track of who I reply to lol. My front pipe isn't flex, it usually loosens dump pipe nuts or sends the vibrations downstream.

R33 GT-R wheels are 9" wide. Going from 255/40 to 255/45 your speedo will be approx. 5 km/h 'slower', probably more accurate.

Have a Costco jack. I either use the front tow points or drive onto pieces of wood to fit the jack under the car.

Which tyres? AD08R? A mate of mine change the tyres on his then MY05 STi from the stock RE7-whatever to AD08 and said it was an improvement (softer sidewalls, heated up quicker, slightly better wet grip because it heated quicker). Was his daily until he sold it for an overseas trip.

So the wheels won't stick outside the guards without additional negative camber? Got pictures?

Yellow Jackets... *in before shitstorm* Lol.

Rebuild your rear LSD, install Quaife front LSD.

You haven't stated what your intended use is. AD08 for track days, RE003 for street driving. RE003 will last longer and have better wet grip. AD08 is one of the best dry grip street legal tyre you can buy. They're okay in the wet, better than what the tread pattern hints (on a WRX STi anyway), just take it easy.

Hi Silent isn't quiet lol.