niZmO_Man

245 tyres on a 10" wheel lol.

Hmm those wheels look familiar...

I bought two sensors for my Liberty (pre and post cat sensors, O2 and A/F), they arrived in two days.

The only thing you should be feeling guilty about is not RKO-ing him.

Nismo

PM Terry-R34, I believe he had one installed on his car?

Those park tail lights seem pretty bright.

Yep that relay should be fine. Those projector style LEDs would be good for reverse, as you want the light projected outwards (to see). For the turn and brakes, I'd rather have something that fires sidewards/backwards so light is reflected off the housing rather than projected outwards (to be seen). Something like this. Will have to figure out which ones will work best in the housings (Philips make a few different styles now). But hey, that's just me. Des, got some more shots of your light output? Looks pretty great.

Also check out partsouq.

It's the resistance change that throws regular flashers off. Some orange LEDs comes with resistors that you put in line (or can either add your own or change the relay) to add the 'load' to stop hyperflashing.

STi as daily driver? Sweg.

Nah, forget that spec. Scroll up and read the last sentence on post #3328.

According to work it should clear GT-R brakes. Like I said, either sizes are suitable. What look are you after?

Drop a 4AGE in it mate.

Those wheels are terrible for your car. Since you're new to the Internet, I'll help you out. 1. ATTESA does not like different rolling diameters. Stick to the same sized wheels and tyres all round. So you'd want either the front OR the rear sizes all round. 2. Brake clearance is determined by the wheel spoke design/space behind the spokes. You have provided zero information on what wheels they are besides the sizes, so your guess is as good as ours. 3. 18x9+30 is the standard R34 GT-R wheel specs, which doesn't require guard work (depending on how low you car is). 18x10+18 will require guards rolled and negative camber to fit. Welcome to the forum and happy searching. Use Google e.g.: type this into the search (without quotes) "r32 gtr wheel fitment site:sau.com.au".

Those look good.

Driving on the streets? I'd get Silent.

I'm pretty sure I have the NRG one (not the short hub). Haven't had any issues but haven't driven my car on track yet. The quick release hub goes between the steering wheel and your boss. Any of those should be fine (stay away from Ebay if you can). Work and Sparco, can't go wrong with those. I'd get a short version if I were to buy it again.

HKS front pipes: Reimax front pipes (Japanese to English Google translation likes the word isometric)

Is that a new twin plate Nismo clutch for $890 Terry? Have you lost the plot mate?

Lol, add me and we can muck around. Just play with bots until you can beat hard ones, then you'll easily beat the SEA 'pros'. Dota is a game where you have to keep playing it to learn the mechanics. It has a steep initial learning curve. Plus a toxic user base populated mainly by retarded school kids. Ignore them all and try to enjoy the game. I don't care about ranks and ratios, so am happy to share my somewhat basic knowledge.

You need to sit back and realise what you're asking. First you say you're building an RB30DET using an R32 RB25DE head and want to know if R33 Poncams will fit. Then you're asking about it going into an RB20DET. What do you want to do? Put the cams in the RB25DE head or RB20DET?

Power gain is probably going to a bigger front pipe, or something else. I paid $250 for my front pipe (off fatz), money well spent . Scotty, I think you mixed up something from that video, the first two 'runs' were inside the car, the other two were outside/sound sourced elsewhere (so went HKS inside -> MINE'S inside -> HKS outside -> MINE'S outside). The sound difference (in that video) between the HKS and MINE'S front pipes is pretty small IMO. MINE's one gives a bit more 'bark'. fatz had that HKS twin exhaust on his car, there might be some videos floating around somewhere.

Did AUDM cars come with a diff cooler?