niZmO_Man

R31 Skyline

I have the same problem on my car. Gassed up, fans engage but compressor keeps blowing fuses (compressor shorting out internally?). I have a spare compressor from my GTS-t wreck, still haven't put it in yet (no time, looks like a big effort to replace).

Spotted gunmetal BNR32 tonight in Green Valley area, had black R34 GT-R wheels by the look of it. Seemed to back some serious punch as well.

Picked this up as a temporary wheel/tyre package until I got tyres on my 18" wheels. 4x Volk SF Challenge Zero 17x9 +22 One wheel has gutter rash (thank you tight carparks pathways), rest are good. Tyres, 2x 245/40 Nankang NS2 heaps of tread, 2x 245/45 Tri-Force 1,000km old $900 PM me. Pickup only, Liverpool area. The wheels with rashes

Yeah mate, still lying around in the shed. Note RB20DET is gone. Looking to swap the TEINs back into my car, so Ohlins suspension might be available soon (very good for street).

If you get a buyer, I suggest you open the package and check for everything before sending it off to the buyer.

Spotted dark Stagea with TE37's today. Also spotted red Stagea yesterday with SAU sticker, at St Leonards

Holy crap that's cheap!

Photos please, willing to pick up this weekend.

Looks to be about +22 (same as my Volk SF Challenge). What tyre sizes?

Do you have the triangular trim pieces that covers the side mirrors (sits above the door card)?

Two Sundays ago spotted THR34T on Milperra Rd. Last Sunday spotted an Infiniti M in Auburn lol

Sorry to bump an old topic, but some more real world experience for you all. The ATTESA on my car started going spastic, one rear tyre kept deflating. Now since it's my only car (daily), and the tyre wasn't repairable (sidewall puncture), I had no choice but to purchase two new tyres for the rear. Unfortunately, the only sizes available were 245/45/17 (I called around a bunch of tyre shops). The existing tyres are 245/40/17 (they came with the wheels). So now I have bigger rear tyres, ATTESSA is kicking in every time I hit a bump (Sydney roads are shit so front torque needle swings around a bit). I have to lift off every time, very annoying and concerning for the AWD. I regret changing the tyres. The rolling diameter difference is ~4% yet confuses the hell out of ATTESA. I'm looking to get a new set of tyres for my 34R wheels ASAP. Hopefully the ATTESSA isn't too bad by then. Good thing I cut down my driving by >50% (catching train to work now). Before when my car had the Factory wheels (225/50/16), no issues. With the R34 wheels 245/45/18 no issues, 255/35/18 no issues. tl;dr- Run same size tyres on your GT-R!

Ooops forgot to follow this topic. Thanks for the offer BWRGTR, I might have to take it up. I got a pair of AFMs from Brisbane (apparently they were R33 but has R32 written on them lol). Chucked them in this time last week, car ran awesomely. The frequency of the slight miss on idle was reduced, car ran smoothly and boosted to 12psi without issues. This morning, the problem reared its ugly head again! WTH!? Although the performance degredation wasn't as bad as before, it wasn't going past the 3/4 boost mark (~350mmHg) and hesitating/being lethargic. Shut the engine down at a set of traffic lights, fired it up and it ran good again. At least on my R31, I just wiggle the AFM plug a bit and it runs good lol. This car brings much electrical headaches. I'll have to look into doing a solder fix on possibly this or my old pair of AFMs and seeing how they go... Unless someone has a good pair of known fully working AFMs (BWRGTR?) hahaha. Cheers guys.

How much for G sensor?

Dammit just saw this ad. Congrats

Pictures of Cusco air guide?

Cheers man. I did have a big suspicion that AFMs are at fault, just weird that after a few seconds of being off it runs fine again.

fatz doesn't have any spares atm I've done the AFM solder fix (which fixed up typical bad AFMs issue), but I think it's probably dying. I'll pull it off again and check them out. Cheers for the suggestions!

Yeah hesitates. Can't hear anything else though. With the vac leak, why does the issue always disappear if I shut the engine down and fire it up after 5-10 seconds? That thing stumps me. Friken car, just more problems (HICAS flicker issue still there as well, definitely electrical). I'll have to pull the crap off to fix exhaust leak anyway (not related as issue was present before the leak... I think).

Hey guys, I have a rather weird boosting issue with my car. Car would run/boost fine, then all of a sudden it would run weird and won't boost past 6psi. I shut the engine off for about 5 seconds, fire it up, runs fine, then after a while (5-30 minutes, no certain interval i.e. random), same weird issue. During this 'boosting problem' mode, as soon as the car goes above 0psi, it will surge and run rich. On overruns/shifting, it will dump fuel (exhaust makes cool popping noises). Shut engine off for 5 seconds > fire it up > runs fine. Sometimes it will run fine for over an hour. Sometimes it will happen after 5 minutes. This issue occurs when the car is warm. Perhaps AFM(s) is playing up, unable to afford a new pair of them unfortunately. Still doesn't explain why it won't boost past 6psi (or 350mmHg or 'halfway between 0 and 7' according to standard boost gauge). Any ideas/experience?

Do you have projectors headlights? On reflector headlamps they are very glary and you won't get a good spread. You're better off getting halogen 'blue power' or similar (I got Narva Arctic Plus 50 for the gf's Pulsar, lights are a lot better). Also the buzzing is because you have a cheap kit. Hell even a Kaixen kit isn't that great (4300K my arse, more like 3800K, takes two minutes to warm up) but doesn't buzz. If you have projectors, look at getting a $200 kit. TRS kit (from USA) have really short bulbs (good, better spread), but I've had issues with their bulbs not being white enough (their 4300K, they don't have 5000K unfortunately). Warm up time is decent (30s) and their kits are good quality. Cheap $50 ebay kit won't last long. I've had two sets of ballasts and one bulb die all within 6 months. Best kit I got was 4 years ago, $200 kit which someone from R31SC sourced, that kit lasted up until my dad blew all fuses and relays in my R31 (3 years of use).

Checked the links at the battery?

Mods please remove this topic.

Spotted white R32 GT-R yesterday next to the Audi dealer on Great North Rd Fivedock.