niZmO_Man

Those headlights are in awesome condition. Window seals off race car?

You need to put up a price.

First set BNR34 wheels with centre caps and used R888s $1,699. - Can you put up pictures of all four wheels? Second set Work XT7 18x9.5+18 with slightly used Z211 $1,799. - Can you put up pictures of all four wheels?

Offsets Location

No joke, you're probably making more right turns than left (e.g. going round a roundabout). When you're taking off, more torque is probably being transmitted to the left side (gearbox side). It all adds up I suppose. Most likely alignment though.

Whoops, meant to say 4300K is good white temperature.

What brake pads?

Go to imgur.com, upload your picture there, copy and paste the forum links into here.

As mentioned, I wouldn't go higher than 6/4 for street. At the moment in my GT-R I'm running old TEINs (no damper adjustment), which I estimate are around the 7-8kg/mm mark. Very good for corners, but for Sydney roads they are way too stiff. My Ohlins with Eibach springs on the other hand, I estimate them to be around 4-5kg/mm, a lot more comfortable but still decent for handing, has body roll though (softer compression on the Ohlins compared to the TEINS). Nismo S-Tune spring rates apparently are 5.3/4.8 for the R33 GTS-t. If in doubt, get these: http://www.otomoto.com.au/p/8475209/hsd-ad-type-coliovers-for-skyline-ecr33.html, 7/5 kg/mm with damper adjust. Good for full weight Skyline that you will track occasionally IMO. A lot depends on how much harshness you can tolerate. I'm seriously considering going back to my Ohlin/Eibach suspension as the TEINs are just too harsh for Sydney roads (35 series tyres don't help either ). A mate of mine got the Blitz set from Just Jap for his S14. They are 8/6 but more comfortable than my TEINs. S14s are obviously lighter as well. Food for thought.

NSW is fooked. CTP jumped $150 for my R31 compared to last year. Same details including location.

R32? I pulled the whole water lines off from both turbos. There's a bolt that holds the bracket at the rear of the engine, on both sides of the engine. Take them out so you can lift the lines higher. After that, hope you have a small 13mm spanner to take off the dump. Once the dump is off it gets a bit easier. Boost likes, mine had the pinch style clamps that you press with pliers, so you should be fine with silicon (or replace the clamp?).. Front turbo looks impossible. Luckily for me only the rear turbo-manifold flange gasket was blown.

Sorry just realised someone replied to this post. Car over heated but didn't blow the head gasket. Car's been sold a while ago. Was a dud motor.

55w HID is very bright, but won't last as long as 35w. 4300K is a good price. Depending on the brand of the HID kit, $200 is good value for money.

Do not get HID lights then. They will cause hot spots, bad glare and a poorly distributed beam. I suggest looking at something like Narva Actic Plus 50. Put then in a N16 Pulsar (H1), they were noticeably brighter and whiter. I would say it produces advertised 3,900K. I also suggest to put some relays so you don't fry out the headlight switch. Running thicker wires + relays also enables you to run higher wattage bulbs. Make sure you align the headlights properly.

Location?

Rubber window seals that goes along the top of the door frames. More interested in passenger side but will take a pair

Holy bloody hell, that's downright shameful. Hope they pay for it, what a disgrace.

Location?

Spotted Midnight Purple R34 GT-R with gold mesh wheels at Lidcombe. Also parked in front of a grey M35 AXIS on black mesh type wheels .

Location would also help.

Mine were grippy right up to when they were replaced. 255/35/18 all round.Opinions on grip, is just that, opinions. One person with one set of wheel alignment specs will have a different opinion of the same tyre compared to someone else with different set of specs. Even tyre pressures makes a difference, and different tyres respond differently to pressures.

Looks really good. Well done.

If the hub was stuffed and your fan was fully engaged, you will hear the fan all the time. One way to test it is when the engine is cold, spin the fan by hand. It should turn with resistance, spin about 1/4 way or so then stop. On cold start, the fan will be engaged for a few seconds then you will hear it go 'off' (disengage).

Can you PM me what they charged donut_kng?

Is that $600 for a set (4 wheels)?