niZmO_Man

I've been dailying my R32 GT-R now, usually driving in traffic. Usually get 450-550 km per tank (60L) depending on how much boost it sees (not much) and more importantly how the AFMs feel lol. I got 650km once, but I did lots of highway kms and the AFMs were kind. Engine is standard, standard turbo, standard dumps and aftermarket everything after. My goal is to get 10L/100km, which I believe is achievable with Nistune, new coilpacks and new AFMs. You should be easily getting 550-600km to a tank if you take it easy. R31s are lighter and don't have 4WD. When I had my R32 GTS-t, I was easily getting 600km per tank in traffic. Only mod was R34 turbo, everything else was standard including the exhaust. Damn I miss that car especially the sunroof lol. Biggest factor is your right foot. If that's in check, then it'll be O2 sensors, spark, tune. Also if your car is an Aus-spec, make sure the rear calipers aren't dragging.

The owner should be made to walk and catch buses.300ZX aren't that bad

The s*** we deal with everyday.

I have the same issue with my 32R. I have changed the HICAS computer.. might replace it with another one. I can also hear clicking in the boot when it happens (relay or something), passenger side in the guard somewhere. It's definitely electrical/grounding related as when I replaced the terminals at the battery, the issue went away for a week.

Hey mate, can you get more pictures up of the wheels? Also what tyres are they (including size)?

Also the 10mm won't fit GT-R shifters (they're 12mm),

Sucks you're in Adelaide.

Did you get a glimpse of the wheels? There's a MNP 34R that used to hang around Lidcombe. Had mesh wheels, think they were gold colour.

Not sure if this helps, but check the plugs on the gearbox. One is for reverse lights.

I'll take the rear one if it's available.

What colour body? Rear badge for sale?

Those headlights are in awesome condition. Window seals off race car?

You need to put up a price.

First set BNR34 wheels with centre caps and used R888s $1,699. - Can you put up pictures of all four wheels? Second set Work XT7 18x9.5+18 with slightly used Z211 $1,799. - Can you put up pictures of all four wheels?

Offsets Location

No joke, you're probably making more right turns than left (e.g. going round a roundabout). When you're taking off, more torque is probably being transmitted to the left side (gearbox side). It all adds up I suppose. Most likely alignment though.

Whoops, meant to say 4300K is good white temperature.

What brake pads?

Go to imgur.com, upload your picture there, copy and paste the forum links into here.

As mentioned, I wouldn't go higher than 6/4 for street. At the moment in my GT-R I'm running old TEINs (no damper adjustment), which I estimate are around the 7-8kg/mm mark. Very good for corners, but for Sydney roads they are way too stiff. My Ohlins with Eibach springs on the other hand, I estimate them to be around 4-5kg/mm, a lot more comfortable but still decent for handing, has body roll though (softer compression on the Ohlins compared to the TEINS). Nismo S-Tune spring rates apparently are 5.3/4.8 for the R33 GTS-t. If in doubt, get these: http://www.otomoto.com.au/p/8475209/hsd-ad-type-coliovers-for-skyline-ecr33.html, 7/5 kg/mm with damper adjust. Good for full weight Skyline that you will track occasionally IMO. A lot depends on how much harshness you can tolerate. I'm seriously considering going back to my Ohlin/Eibach suspension as the TEINs are just too harsh for Sydney roads (35 series tyres don't help either ). A mate of mine got the Blitz set from Just Jap for his S14. They are 8/6 but more comfortable than my TEINs. S14s are obviously lighter as well. Food for thought.

NSW is fooked. CTP jumped $150 for my R31 compared to last year. Same details including location.

R32? I pulled the whole water lines off from both turbos. There's a bolt that holds the bracket at the rear of the engine, on both sides of the engine. Take them out so you can lift the lines higher. After that, hope you have a small 13mm spanner to take off the dump. Once the dump is off it gets a bit easier. Boost likes, mine had the pinch style clamps that you press with pliers, so you should be fine with silicon (or replace the clamp?).. Front turbo looks impossible. Luckily for me only the rear turbo-manifold flange gasket was blown.

Sorry just realised someone replied to this post. Car over heated but didn't blow the head gasket. Car's been sold a while ago. Was a dud motor.

55w HID is very bright, but won't last as long as 35w. 4300K is a good price. Depending on the brand of the HID kit, $200 is good value for money.

Do not get HID lights then. They will cause hot spots, bad glare and a poorly distributed beam. I suggest looking at something like Narva Actic Plus 50. Put then in a N16 Pulsar (H1), they were noticeably brighter and whiter. I would say it produces advertised 3,900K. I also suggest to put some relays so you don't fry out the headlight switch. Running thicker wires + relays also enables you to run higher wattage bulbs. Make sure you align the headlights properly.