TurboTapin

Pulled out my good old trusty RB20/HY35 setup. My garage is a mess but luckily I have a few people coming to buy most of it tomorrow. Stupid what people are willing to spend on these now... A complete RB20 & trans went for 1500$ on a good day 3-4 years ago.

Happy we're all on the same page! He's a great and very well known builder in the area but I believe he's overly conservative to try and cover his ass. Thanks.

Question for everyone. I'm wrapping up an RB28 build (Stroked RB25) and went with .250" gudgeon pins along with CP Pistons. I figured the extra wall thickness would come in handy down the road if ever I decide to push it further with nitrous. I'm running a complete Ferrea valvetrain and new hydraulic lifters. I had presumed at the time my hydraulic lifters would limit my RPM well before the extra gudgeon pin weight would. My machinist who has done countless RB's seems to think otherwise. I have no reason to doubt what he says, but he does tend to err on the side of caution and I just wanted a second opinion. I was planning on pushing it to a somewhat conservative 8000RPM. He said he would not be comfortable past 7400RPM due to the added rotational weight. Thoughts?

Parts started coming in this week, I was able to get most of it done today. Just waiting on my cams and a couple other things. Need to go to my local dealer and order a CD009/A so I can start on that in-between other things.

Aww yes I have the stage 1.5 crackle tune but unfortunately couldn't afford the pop part. I'm going to pop chip my ecu soon though.

Still waiting on parts, they should start arriving this week. Mocked up my PRP crank trigger while I wait. Have a question for everyone, I've been hearing different opinions then what I had originally presumed. Is anyone running/building RB's with .250" thick wrist pins? If so, what are you revving them up too? Have you limited the RPM due to the added rotational weight? Thanks

Took awhile but I finally got my block back from my machinist/assembler. I can finally continue with the build. Realized my ARP RB25 balancer bolt doesn't fit. It's a spool RB25-RB28 stroker kit but it must be identical to their RB26 stroker kit and have the crank sized for an M18 RB26 bolt and not an M16 RB25 bolt. Never thought of this when I ordered it but it makes sense. I just wish they would have listed it in the description. I'm off to order another one of those and a few last remaining parts.

I could repair this for you in 30 minutes but the head would have to come off. Call your local machinists/fabricators who could Tig this back together and retap. Don't worry about it, this is a rather simple repair. Cheers.

You can actually charge 12V batteries. They do 2-24V. Now would I actually use one on any of my batteries? Not a chance.

Kudos Motorsports: Japanese Performance & Servicing Parts Specialist

Those are 30+ year old battery chargers. I doubt it would be worth much if anything today. Cheers.

I've used the one from Kudo with no issues. Cheap and can't go wrong with NTK. Cheers.

I searched and could not seem to find much. Is anyone running a GKTech's R32 weld in anti squat reduction kit? I was curios to know what people thought of the placement and steel gauge? Thanks. S13 240sx/R32 Skyline subframe anti-squat reduction weld in kit (gktech.com)

That is the thermoswitch connector that controls the ac(overheat) fan, not the fan motor itself. The jumper is there so the fan runs constantly. Do not put it back. What's the condition of your rad, shroud and rad fan? This may have been done to test your ac fan or alleviate overheating issues but that's a seperate issue.

Have not seen many electrical tools mentioned so here are two I like. I'll see what else I can come up with. 1. Connecter depinning tools. I often see people stabbing away with a flat screwdriver only to crack and destroy their old connectors. 2. Cable tie gun. This will tighten and cut cable ties in one shot. Very practical and quick when you have 100's to do.

There's a few things on that fuse with the highest load being the AC condenser fan. Take a look at the electrical drawings.

Was back in the garage today. Started off with the installation of my Nitto head drain. Installation is pretty straight forward. Knocked the welch plug out. Drilled 13/64 and tapped M6x1. Cleaned it out thoroughly afterwards. As per the instructions, I put oil resistant gasket maker on the drain and thread sealant on the bolts and tightened it up. Lastly my driveway is on a slant so I cannot push cars up into the garage. I installed a winch in the garage to pull in any cars that can't move under their own power (engineless, etc.) or that are equipped with summer tires in the winter. Skyline got stuck in the driveway last winter when I pulled it out to do an oil change on my daily driver... When it came time to drive it back in, tires would just spin on the ice/snow. Had to wait 2 days, and get two of my neighbors to help push it in. I don't want this happening again... I had to weld up a bracket and punch in 4x studs into the cement but came out great. I'll be using my lawn tractor battery as it serves no purpose in the winter.

Agreed. With so many options of what it could be (Washer fluid, blinker fluid, tinniest meth injection kit, etc.) it would have been great to be able to trace it one foot further to its destination but unfortunately OP's trunk must not open.

As already mentioned, rear washer hose.

Little update, finished my external fuel pump harness. I'll label it tomorrow.

Project has been stalled due to ARP fasteners being on global backorder. Was lucky to find main studs in the UK and head studs in Australia. I'll be dropping off my block at the machinist after the holidays. Received a few other things as well. Worked on my radium fuel pump hanger this morning. I was originally running one AEM 340LPH, I'll be reusing that one and running a staged second. Hanger can accommodate three pumps but I do not have a need for the third. Pulled my oem hanger and removed the fuel level and low level sensors off. Sensors installed on new hanger. Finishing up the internal wiring. Hanger setup complete. Was pleased with the quality and ease of setting this up. Getting it back in wasn't pleasant though... Very tight fit. Anger gets shit done. I put the original hoses back on temporarily just to get it in and out of the garage if needed but I will be running new hard lines soon with flexible 8an ends. Slowly working on the exterior wiring now... I forgot to bring my wire labeler home from work.

I've heard of this practice before and it is an excellent idea but instead I've always just pulled the plugs and injector fuse and cranked until I see pressure prior to first start. So far this has always worked for me on new builds or motors that have sat for a long time. Thanks for the heads up though Duncan! Cheers.

See this thread. It explains it perfectly. Exhaust Mainfold | Skyline Owners Forum Picture of RB25 elbow gasket on RB20 turbo elbow for comparison. Both the size and flange are different. As @GTSBoy has already mentioned though, it can be made to fit. I would just open up the flange with a die grinder and drill out the bolt holes so they match up.

Forgot to mention, I did measure crank nose to inner gear clearance. I did find it a tad loose but the old one had the same clearance and the service manual does not mention a need to verify this. .46mm total clearance or .23mm each side. Double checked it with feeler gauge.

Got around to finishing my oil pump. Started by comparing the old and new gear set for "Science" and peace of mind. Old and new inner gear I.D. Nearly identical. Old and new outer gear O.D. Nearly identical. Old and new outer gear thickness. Identical. Old and new inner gear stub O.D. Nearly identical. Both OEM and PRP gear sizes were basically identical. Moving on, I verified tolerances as per service manual. Measurement #1 - Outer gear to housing clearance. .152mm was a go, .203mm was a no go. It's within specs. Skipped measurement #2 as it's a new gear set. Measurement #3 & #4. .152mm was a no go. I did not have anything thinner but I see a small gap so will assume this is within spec. I was happy with the measurements and moved on with assembly. Measurement #5 is not pictured. Cleaned bolts thoroughly for proper Loctite adhesion, oiled gears and housing and knocked out the old seal. I then assembled the pump without Loctite to verify fit. The gears did not bind on anything and turned freely. Lastly I assembled with Loctite and torqued to spec. I added an extra 2nm for peace of mind. I mark each screw with a paint marker after I've torqued it. This is also useful in the future to verify if any of the fasteners have backed out. Pumps now ready to party!