TurboTapin

There's advantages and disadvantages to both. Sourced DI's are used in automotive for reliability (You can't short signal wires) and ease of use (You have chassis GND available to you anywhere).

On PLC inputs, yes 95% of the time you're sourcing. In automotive, including Nissan's, 95% of DI's are actually sinking. OP is correct. You sink inputs to GND, thus you will have 0VDC with the switch closed.

Like myself, you know you work in industry when your car is littered with Swagelok and Wika lol.

Nice car, you'll enjoy it! I take it from that plate, you're in New Brunswick?

It's an 80$ part on Amayama. Just replace it and be done with it.

What do you mean by "Signal and power from battery to the single post" ? You should only have one 12VDC power cable from battery to stud on the starter and your start signal to the spade for a total of two wires to your starter. Your block also needs to be properly grounded.

I've used the same style crimps on 600VAC, well above 25A. When I'm writing a bill of material for a design, I base it on what it's rated for and nothing more. If I measured every neck of every terminal I used, I'd get fired and presumably sent to an insane asylum. You're over thinking it. Now this only applies if he's using a name brand terminal and not a ching chong meow ali express special. My Radium hanger uses much smaller bulk heads and ring terminals and they're cold to the touch. As for my question concerning the nylon lock nut, crimps and if the ring is properly landing on the bulkhead, what I was getting at is if the bulkhead landing area is small and the ring terminal is oversized for the stud and not making a good contact, it could cause the heat with a nylock. As for the heat, if that's in fact a nylon lock nut and the nylon liquified which is what it looks like in that picture, it took some serious heat! Something was poorly done here, perhaps loose nuts or the crimps themselves. Looking at those crimps, it looks like he didn't use "Insulated terminal" crimpers as there's no indent anywhere to be seen.

Those yellow ring terminals are usually UL rated to 48-50A, and the blue ones to 30A. 105C. I doubt that's your issue. What's oozing out of the top of that nut? Is that a nylon lock nut? Does your bulkhead fitting have enough landing for your ring terminal to make good contact on both sides? Bad contact = Heat. Also check your crimps. Once crimped, confirm it's done properly by trying to pull the wire and ring apart. It should not budge.

It was cheaper at Trust Kikaku then it was at the dealer with my 15% off. No clue how, but I won't argue. Here's the link if ever you need one. Cheers. Nissan A/C Climate Control Unit - BNR32 #663111124 – Trust Kikaku (trust-kikaku.myshopify.com)

Yes, I mentioned it in my first that I did everything that is mentioned online (Redo dry solders, clean connector between PCB's, etc.) and unfortunately it didn't solve it. It crapped out again earlier today, so I replaced it. I'll keep the old one around to repair it at some point.

I also run a CD009. I'm currently on a 4.08 and it's not great. I originally intended to run a 3.3 but had issues, more on that later. I'd stick to anywhere between a 3.3-3.7 as found in the 350z. As for brands of ring and pinions, absolutely stay away from Speedtek. They are absolute garbage. See my build thread for more information on that. I went through two of there 3.3's and both had bad runout. They were paperweights and they have still yet to refund me. I ended up putting in a Nissan 4.08, which was better then the original 4.36 but is far from ideal. I'm going to pop a 3.5 in this winter. I'd stick Nissan. I've also heard of a company "Neat Gearboxes" that makes them. Haven't tried them, but they can't be worst then Speedtek...

Just for a good chuckle. I received the new climate control yesterday and just before starting to remove my old one, I decided to try it again... it worked and has worked since haha. I'm keeping the new one on the shelf as I know it will repeat itself again at some point.

It's just a regular Nissan part you can get from your dealer or online. Part# 28525-05U12. I just went and ordered one as I don't see any other option. Cheers.

Already done, along with confirming all the wiring to the unit checks out. It's more of a wild goose chase in hopes that someone else found a failed solder, bad component, etc. within the unit itself. I have a feeling I'll have to just order a new one.

It was pouring rain Friday night, and my windshield started fogging up. Went to turn on the defogger and to my surprise, my climate control doesn't turn on. The recirc and defogger light strangely stay lit though. I'm presuming it's dead, but has anyone had this before and resolved it? Looking this up online, I found a few mentions of bad solders on the connector between the two PCB's or the connector itself being dirty. I resoldered the connector on both ends and cleaned it but it's still not powering up. No other dry solders that I could see or any components that were toast. I found a few used ones at ridiculous prices (600-800$ CAD). A new one is 790$ shipped to my door. So as mentioned, before I order a new one, has anyone seen this and fixed it?

After a quick revisit, I'm now at 478rwkws @ 27psi on a mustang roller dyno.

That's unfortunately not an option due to the short length I need (~50mm). I've always ran submersible rubber hose without any issues. It is also what is in there from factory. Thanks for the tip though! I was back on the dyno again today to play with VCT rpm and knock thresholds. In the end, the best gains were with keeping VCT on until redline. I gained 15rwkw at the top end. I'm now sitting at 478rwkw @27psi on a mustang dyno. For science and not for bragging rights (I'm full of shit), next time I'm bored, I'll visit one of the many mainline hub dynos around me to do a pull. I'm confident it would be 500+rwkw on a hub dyno. Tuner once again mentioned I'm leaving a lot of power on the table due to my rev limit/hydro lifters. I may or may not entertain going solids at some point in the not so distant future. I also don't really need any more power for the street... it's already more then enough to kill myself. VID_20240627_151737.mp4

I have HSD Dualtechs and would not recommend them. I always planned on replacing them and I've been more so bothered by their excessive stiffness recently. Their time is limited. On another note, I will have a fantastic set of HSD Dualtechs for sale soon 😂

Your response is extremely similar to what someone on the Haltech tuning tips Facebook page answered me. I take it you're also on there haha. Dyno is booked for June 27th and that's exactly what I'll be doing. I also realized I never setup a pulse width adder table so I went and did that last night. Made a fair bit of fueling difference in low load areas. I sorted out my power steering belt woes. It was an alignment issue and it has now survived multiple instances of abuse that would have killed it prior. I also changed my fuel pump hose. The hose I replaced looks nothing like the legit gates hose I received. Real hose is actually 5/16" and is labelled properly. Amazon refunded me but has been giving me grief about my nasty review I'm trying to leave... I keep having to modify it for acceptance. I want to make sure the point gets across to others. Last issue I want to deal with soon is the slight vibration I get in my steering wheel with my GKTech Spacers in front. My annoyance has grown and I'm at a point where I want it resolved. I've tried everything I can come up with like clean spacers thoroughly, tighten in star pattern, retorque, have wheels rebalanced 4-5x with a variety of machines (2x with a Hunter elite). I've also taken the spacers off and remounted multiple times just in case. I'm starting to think my GKtech spacers are at fault. I'll pop a wheel off and toss a dial indicator on tomorrow to verify runout and parallelism.

I never cared for twins but whenever these conversations came up, I always presumed the higher number represented a larger turbo. Learn something new everyday.

Windshield wiper motor.

It should work without the car running. Confirm you see roughly the same resistance from the level wires at the back of the cluster. If they're good, your cluster is fubar. If not, start tracing that wire back.

First time I ever have issues with Amazon, but my wife often tells me to keep an eye out for fakes. It finally got me. I wrapped up the conversation with Gates. The gentlemen I was talking to seemed to hate his job but the response time on their technical support is outstanding. He stated that the hose is marked with some variation of "SAE J30R10" but that if you only purchase a 1 foot length like I did, it is possible to get a cut between markings and have a blank hose. To no ones surprise, he stated the swelling and "gummyness" isn't normal and to replace/buy from somewhere else (He mentioned NAPA). I'll toss a small end of the new one in gas for a few days before pulling the hanger out again, just to be safe. Hose should arrive Monday. For those running multiple pump in tank hangers, you know the joys of getting them out and back in. I'm surprised I haven't destroyed my level float yet. Lastly once I wrap all of this up, I'm planning on hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks while I'm on vacation. I realized recently that my VCT is set to turn off at 5000RPM. I'm surprised it wasn't increased while I was on the dyno last. I'm expecting I can increase it to ~6500RPM, if not more. Should hopefully get another 15-20kw out of it. I also want him to revisit my knock thresholds. I'm occasionally getting false knock around 3000rpm.

Gates is saying the same thing. They think I have the right bag with the wrong hose in it... I bought it off amazon, I'm thinking someone pulled a good old swapparoo and returned normal hose. Well looks like she's coming back out... Not very lucky with this hose lol.

Anyone here a submersible fuel hose expert? I pulled my hanger out again for unrelated issues and noticed the hose I popped on last week has already swollen. This is Gates 27093 submersible hose. I've waiting on a response from Gates, but this surely can't be normal? This is on pump gas, not E85. Is swelling a tad possibly normal? I've also been fighting with my power steering belt.... I've now tossed one and killed two. I just realigned my pulleys again, hoping this time it stays on. It doesn't like high rpm.