r32-25t

It’s not driver training though, it’s just an online questionnaire and $65

Bahahahaha had a feeling it was only a matter of time till a turbo was on the radar

There are adaptors that allow you to delete the booster and use an s15 clutch master cylinder. if you want to keep the booster they are still available brand new

Did you get the 230mm version? I’ve got the solid center version and it’s a dream to drive

They do that every year

There’s probably people who’d like to do it and then when it comes to putting their hands in their pockets they’ll all disappear into the shadows

Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want.

Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power

Brand was ard. I also threw a brand new battery at it and beefed up the wire from the alternator to battery and added an extra earthing point from the battery

to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it

Buy one

Is it a Prius or a race car? We are here to make power and have fun not drive grandma to bingo

Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work

You need the kit turbo taipan has shown you because that manifold ia designed have side feed injectors

Most people building big horse power RB engines remove the squish pads and fit over sized valves the prp head comes without the squish pads out of the box

No I’m just reading shaking my head

Approx 1m long, chrome moly, hardy splicer unis. Didn’t measure the diameter. The shop that built it also builds the shafts for b2r, jem, maatouks, etc and built the shaft to the same specs as their cars that’s are running 7 and 8 second passes!! Which say to me that it can handle some big mph

One of the issues Adam mentioned was the tail shaft center bearing being flogged out, I took the shaft down to be rebuilt after a conversation with the owner of the shop it was decided a whole new shaft was the best way to go. so after taking measurements and waiting a week my new shaft was ready to pick up new and old shafts next to each other, yes the new one piece shaft and was worried about vibration, after driving the car turns out that there is nothing to worry about

I’d be keen on the nsx and maybe the cosmo, the others I have in various brands

The sensor grounds all go back to the ecu and none of them are on the battery ground, Adam suggest putting the flex sensor straight to earth because of it being a frequency signal can play with the others it does it on the road now that I’ve driven it and paid attention, not sure if it’s rpm or load making it happen though

What other models does that series have?

Why did you point it out? 🤬 I ended up buying one lol

Extremely frustrating, it’s all custom wiring with an elite 2500 and pdm, I’ve disconnected all the sensors one at a time and even removed all the can modules trying to find it, nothing appears to be an obvious problem at the moment

I took it back to jem to get the full tune done and again it had its problems which meant it didn’t get finished this is the dyno sheet on 98 at 22psi the rpm vs speed scale is off (the logs prove this) but gives an idea of what the curve actually looks like now to the issues of why we couldn’t continue,first the tail shaft center bearing was completely flogged out second it was getting a voltage drop as it came onto boost and would go from 14v to 12.5 third it has “noise” on the 5v sensors and gives errors on the dbw on cold start he also said 22psi is the wastegate pressure (it has 14psi gates) and would like the base pressure to be lower particularly on 98

Big sump with a quaife front diff should be you’re first modifications big sump will keep the engine alive and quaife front diff will transform how it handles