WazR32GTSt

option 1: gutted cat and exhaust leak option 2: dead rat in the boot/glovebox/under seat option 3: leaking anal sphincter

bump

^^^what he said! its just getting real annoying hearing the old "sell your NA R33... non-turbo cars are shit" attitude that's out there in the younger skyline community (not taking a dig at anyone specific here, its been around for a while) its just plain immature and close-minded...

gts25t4door, if its all about power, why didn't you but a modified VL turbo? would have cost you less than your R33 and would be much faster for the same price... why do rich businessmen buy a mercedes when a modified GTR for the same price would be twice as powerful? they buy the mercedes for the class and luxury it provides... see my point?

no worries

problem was that the headbolts needed to be torqued higher than the factory specs.. i realised this the second time around when i did some searching on the net.. i had many other problems other thand a blown headgasket, thought.. not an engine i would recommend unlike the faithful rb series...

aren't intake temps taken from the temp inside the manifold? if so, either your FMIC isn't connected, or the tuner "turned up" the intake temp value so that it is reading higher i read somewhere that each 10deg higher intake temp adds on 5-10kW to account for the "Apparent" changes in the atmosphere (the correction that shootout mode does) when i had my car dynoed last, the intake temps were 15deg on a 15deg day (with FMIC).. the temp proble was palced to read at the manifold... Warren.

firstly, why do you say "i don't have an aftermarket gauge yet"? you don't need an aftermarket gauge.. the stock one works fine. its just hard to read, that's all... now to your problem: the gauge does NOT read in psi, it reads in mmHg how does this convert to psi? well +7 on your gauge equates to approximately 14psi.. so in your car you would expect to see full boost as +3.5 uness the boost has been turned up, or the car modified eg with an exhaust and lastly, if you aren't under acceleration then you don't have a positive manifold pressure, and so that is why you don't see boost in cruise The good news? Everything you described is perfectly normal for an unmodified R33! cheers, Warren.

don't get any car with a 7M-GE engine! i had an MA70 supra with the 7M-GE and blew 2 headgaskets... my personal recommendation is: R31 skyline (aussie-delivered version) - car is cheap - parts are cheap - very reliable - sporty but practical - its a skyline Warren

YES PUT IT ON! geez... why would they even have them if they weren't needed?

i'm in St Lucia if you want it for $45 then you can come and get it unfortunately i really have no time free to run to the southside due to the fact that i am in a heavy course i can post it to you however for $45... Warren.

this is a great boost controller at a cheap price...

well its not a fixed number (eg its not 20kw at the wheels, regardless of the power) as to whether or not its a fixed percentage? i doubt it. There's too many variables to say that one component will lose 25% of its kinetic energy at one energy level and then act the same at twice or 3 times the energy level... my bet is that its a varying percentage loss and that with increased power, the percentage loss at the wheels increases slightly... but i have no technical proof obviously as i'm not an engineer/mechanic Warren.

the best place to find a GTR badge is... ON A GTR... where it BELONGS!

just call it a s1.5 - after all most series 1 owners seem to these days since s1.5 was invented (or made up?)

you kidding yourself, chirs? he even said he wanted to abide by the P-plater laws and can't afford insurance plus he probably doesn't want to kill himself... its not all about power, you know

my FMIC fit without cutting the bumper reincorcement bar i had to cut the front bumper (stock plastic bumper) as you would expect, but cutting the metal supprt? hmmmmmmmmmm

invest in a set of extractors, and ingore the fools that are telling you to sell it it might not be fast, but it still looks GREAT and handles GREAT enjoy the fanstastic car that you have...

it might go faster if you push it! ha ha

turbosmart are terrible from what i have read i have a GFB boost controller for sale ($50 delivered anywhere is oz) if you want a controller with proven reliability and proven performance.. its even pre-set to run 12psi click here for ad in the FS section: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85425 cheers, Warren.

cutting that would be a stupid idea if you tap a car in front you will destroy your intercooler, radiator, and possibly the engine its not there fo no reason, its there as a bumper bar, and takes the force of any impact just because others cut it off, doesn't mean its correct. warren.

firstly, let me say... you are a smart man. i applaud that you don't have to get a turbo for your first car. once you learn how to drive properly, then you can upgrade later. now, to your question... The s13 is an ugly car. let's not kid ourselves here.. it doesn't even compare to the r32. my personal opinion is to get an R31 (maybe 3k) and keep the 8k you have left over in savings.. then after about 2 years, upgrade to an r32gtst while all your friends either have slow NA s13's or have damaged s13/r32 turbo's from the accident's they have had good luck, Warren.

well to stick to the topic, which is non-jap car under 10k... i would say: - saab 93 - golf GTI but unless japan is blown off the map, lets hope i never have to resort to this!

so how much will you be out of pocket if you pay 50% each? if its less than $400 or so, i would say bite the bullet and pay, then stay away from that mechanic! after all, time is money. after months spent with lawyers and in court, is it going to be worth the stress and hassle? no. Warren.

mate, we all make mistakes. the best of us are the ones who learn from them.. good to hear you kept the job!