WazR32GTSt

hmmm is this another story altogether?

i moved my horns up to the bonet latch...

do a search for MV automatics - they are in adelaide and do shift kits for about 300ish i think c'mon... be original and stick with the auto!!

cars arent all about performance... there's: - looks - comfort - handling - social status - power - torque - finances etc. otherwise why are we all buying skylines when a VLT for the same price could probably run 11s? seriously, a NA R32/R33 is a great looking and handling car with good torque and street credability... be wise who's posts you read and take advice from and those which you know came from a 16 year old keyboard warrier...

mate, as said before, any JDM car was made for japan. in japan they have 100RON fuel. thus whether its got a turbo, supercharger, NA... whatever, they are all made for 100RON fuel. so do the next owner of yor car a favour and use premium...

there is a fuel cut but i doubt you will hit it with the stock turbo also, from one auto R32 member to another, i recommend a trans cooler... let is know how it all goes. i hear the SAFC works fine... after all it only intercepts the AFM wires and that's it so i don't see why it wouldn't work i made 132rwkw @ 12psi (AFRs flat but at about 10.5:1) with my auto r32 so don't forget to post up a dyno graph for us to see! cheers, Warren

you could run 91 octane if you are tight, but if it were me and its all i could afford i would turn the timing right back and the boost right down. Hell, i'd jam the wastegate open and run no boost - that might make it safe and fuel efficient

let's nto forget that the main concern is not the law, its NOT KILLING YOURSELF. that's why we recommend staying away from a GTR as for a gtst (which is a great car) check out www.carsales.com.au www.carpoint.com.au www.tradingpost.com.au www.drive.com.au and of course the for sale section my question to you, matthew, is: have you considered the day-to-day running costs of a turbocharged car? remember $500 rego, $1500 insurance, $50+ petrol, maintenance, oil changes etc. a good car to learn in is a R31 non-turbo with the rb30e. its a very reliable car (we have one with 500,000kms - original engine and gearbox) and won't cost much when you have a front-end smash. Warren.

the answer to your question is: use whatever fuel you can get to that is as close to the jap-spec 100RON as possible after all, that's what the car tuned for. If you have had it re-tuned then that's a different question (as ferni said) as it may have been optimised for our 98RON cheers, Warren.

ha ha series 1.5... its just a series 1 with some series 2 bits on it. at the end of the day its still a series 1... is a gts with gtr bits on it a gts/r? i don't think so as for the topic question, there aren't really any inherant problems with the r32's. if you don't want a turbo then that's fine - you still get the looks and handling of the best value-for-money car, just without that punch of power. as Rhett said, i would look for the R32 GTS25 which is basically a non-turbo R33 engine in the lighter (and better looking in my opinion) R32 shell best of luck with your decision! Warren PS everyone is oing to give their own separate opinions here - no one is right they're just opinions. if you want advice then take it but make the decision yourself re looks and what features you want!

for 2.5K the ECU would want to tune itself... he he seriously though, finish off the exhaust and get a cheap FMIC and piping kit. and do yourself (and your wallet) a favour and get a new mechanic/tuner! Warren.

www.rb20det.com

can you scan in the dyno graph? if you shop around, youcan get a FMIC including piping for $600-700, and a necent manual boost controller for $50... see the for sale section for more info i also think a dump/front pipe upgrade will serve you better than a FMIC at this stage best of luck, Warren

sorry mate, my knowledge only extends to what i have actually done myself and i have not had a turbo change ...................... yet (he he) from what i have read through, as long as its a T3 flanged turbo designed for the skyline then there should be no real engine bay mods to make it fit. the only mods that may be needed are ECU, fuel pump, injectors, depending on how far you want to push the car's state of tune... hopefully soemone else can give us better details! best of luck, Warren.

northern suburbs? what about MI automotive? they have done me well in the past...

oh, adn have a read of this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=35129

let me hve a go at this... firstly, your questions are NOT stupid. at one stage in all our lives we knew nothing about cars and learnt the bsics first. you will find that if you hang around these forums long enough then you will get to know your car very well and pick up some valuable knowledge... Q: what are front/dump pipes? A: well in a turbo car there is an exhaust manifold that sort of bolts onto the side of the engine and all the exhaust gas escapes through that. This manifold has 6 pipes (as its a 6-cylinder) and these meet into one big pipe. The turbo sits on this and when the gas flows throught the turbo it spins the wheels and you get boost. When the gas has spun over the turbo's wheel it is now useless and needs to excape, and so it passesthroug hte rest of the exhaust. A skylien exhaust consists of 4 pieces: front pipe, dump pipe, cat converter, and cat-back. Basically they are just sequential pieces of pipe that lead from the turbo back out to the atmosphere. So in answer to your question, the front/dump pipe is a pipe that bolts onto the back of the turbo and then passes under the car and bolts onto the cat, and it takes exhaust away from the turbo. Q: what is needed for a turbo car to have a bov fitted? A: if you are looking for a skyline, then it already has a bov in its stock form! this is good news for you as they are a great unit and don't need to be repalced Q: what is a bleed valve, and what does it do? A: it is a little valve that sits in a tube and removes air from the tube. don't worry about that, just know that it is put into the system that controls how much boost the car makes, and it allows the car to increase its boost level for extra power! Q: the exhaust is 3.5" from turbo to cat and 3.25" from cat-back.. is that good? A: yes, that's good (taking from what you now know about the dump/front pipe, the car has a 3.5" dump/front pipe). that exhaust might be a bit loud but will flow nicely and allow the car to make some nice power. Q: used to have a FMIC A: that's cool the stock intercooler is not bad at low boost levels and i can't imagine why it wouldn't be up on when the FMIC was removed. keep your eye on the for sale section for some cheap intercoolers and piping kits. they can be had for about $600-700 all up if you doyour research Q: HKS pod with heatshielt A: cops hate pod's and give peopel a hard time with them. its good that it has the hetshield, but if it comes with the stock airbox then one ofthe best thigns to do is simply buy a K&N panel filter and place it into the stock airbox when you buy a car, give it a good service and have it checked y a mechanic. read the forums and get some advice if you are going to upgrade things as meny people have done whateve you are thinking about and can give you some insight into how it turned out... best of luck and i hope you understood what i wrote! Warren

what gap are your park plugs at? if not 0.8mm then that could be your problem my guess is the extra airflow has meant extra fuel in and the spark can't jump the gap at high rpm... Warren.

hey mate, willing to separate the 3" cat converter? cheers, Warren.

mate, you've already posted this in teh general automotive discussion forum... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=82884 ??

mate, don't stress too much if its just condensation then this not actually smoke. stand behind the car. it it comes out and stays thick its smoke. if its comes out and blends in with the air quickly then its ust condensation. of course condensation goes away when the car warms up and is completely normal... i really wouldn't worry about the 'smoke' unless the car is having problems Warren PS those links i put up, the intercooler and piping fron Just Jap is BLOODY CHEAP and they are a reputable company. i wouldn't give that a miss if i were you

a boost increase in the order of 1-2psi will be noticable and you won't have to worry about fuel cut, ECU etc. as for the smoke out the exhust, is it just condensation? that's normal. if its actually smoke then get it checked out by a mechanic... my friend had a TX5turbo with a pod on it and he was shattered when the sucking sound still wasn't as loud as my K&N filter in the stock airbox. just make sure you take out the padding etc. that's in the airbox that is designed to dampen down the sound... Warren.

Universal intercoolers: $175 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=82006 Piping kit: $400 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=82827 Dump pipes: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=82934 High-flow cats: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=15558 Boost controller: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=75038 now, you owe me a beer!

well paul pretty much put you in the right direction there... i would also start with a full service before modding the car, especially if you have recently bought it As for the induction side of things, i wouldn't worry about a pod filter. they just attract cops. there is plenty of evidence that putting a k&n panel filter into the stock airbox is just as free-flowing as a pod, and keeps the hot air of the engine bay out. i have this setup and i can hear heaps of sucking noise... there's nothing you can really do to remove any throttle lag that you might get from a FMIC. that's just what happens. If you fit the 3" exhaust and FMIC you won't even notice the lag there will be just so much more power for you once you have the exhaust and FMIC fitted, i would then get a bleed valve to up the boost to about 10-11psi. that should be safe with the FMIC and your setup. Take it to a dyno and pay for an hour's time (about 110). they can changethe boost for you, alter the timing, make sure the car is running fine and SAFE and you will walk away a very happy man so, summing up i would go: - full service: oil, plugs, trans, fuel filter (maybe $100) - K&N panel air filter ($100) - custom-made 3" exhaust turbo back ($1200) - FMIC and piping ($600) - bleed valve ($50) - time on the dyno ($110) total: just over $2k for a great increase of about 50kW or so... happy moddding Warren.

looks like some kind of stopepr that blocks off the passage of air out of the bov (thus removing the function of the bov altogether) pointless really... why is it there?