Chris Rogers

OEM or fiberglass copy?

I know of a 33 shell. black one that all of that will drop into. shoot me a PM and I'll give you his number.

I'm wondering the same thing myself. if half these cars had full alarms on them properly installed I dare say that most would still be sitting in one spot still.

I know you took a camera - post 'em up..

TOP: RB20 harness - the left side of this thing is well and truly beyond any sort of use. see next shot for detail BOTTOM: RB25 harness - I still have to stretch this one out and note where every tie and clip brace is on it. then strip it and integrate the RB20 one into it. burnt RB20 harness. every thing on the 8 pin and 2 pin grey and black plugs are pretty much fused together. the 4AWG cable for the starter is a total write off. most of that went into the bin except for what I needed to measure and build from scratch again.. another shot. there is no way any of this would have lasted 5 minutes when the RB25 went back in. pin out of the main 8 pin plug . note the mess. measuring and locating the branches of the RB20 harness. this will make building another one a lot easier. this is what needs to carry over into the RB25 one. I have a few things to remove from it as well. that harness will be next to strip once I build this one from scratch again. it is seriously too far gone to reuse reliably. pin out and length diagram of the partial RB20 starter/alternator harness. all of this needs to carry over to the RB25 so I gain reverse lights and N safety switches this is for my reference and I realized AFTER I took that photo that I left a harness OUT of it. there is a 2 pin harness that comes off the PS rack that one side is not on there at the 36" mark that is 6" long with a 2pin yazaki plug . I have since wrote it on there this sheet tells me where/what things are on this harness. the RB25 harness will have a LOT more detail as there is a LOT more hanging off it. ECU harness will be next once I do this one. to be honest that one is NOT going to be fun as it is quite a bit different from the RB20 one. for those that have done a RB25 swap into the 32 chassis - where is the water temp sensor for the heater on a RB25? For the RB20 its on the firewall. so that is where it goes back into the harness when I build it. I have a extra plug on the harness that I'm not quite sure what it is. seems to control or measure water under the intake.

really? - watch this (see next post.) radio has Ipod,USB,B'tooth on it so its fairly up to date. (I cheated as its still a stock late 90's radio with two extra modules hanging off it.)

about to start building a engine harness. I have two small ones here (these are for the starter/alternator side of the engine.) that are about to become one. I'll take piccies in a bit.

electrical issues sorted. change two plug housings over and I have a hicas computer again. spent some of this morning between customers bolting my A/C compressor and P'Steering pump on the RB25. found a small trap in my case. the earlier PS pump has a 4 rib V belt the later ones have a 3 rib one. I do not see it being a major issue but I really wish I had kept the RB20 crank pulley now

(thinks he should do car alarms on a few cars down that way.) FK these things are going missing left and right..

if she wants a navi radio in it I have the panels for it.

autowatch - job done. find someone capable of installing it PROPERLY as well.

look in the boot (lhs under the panel) for the amplifer. that will tell you if you need to call me or not.

where are you?

brake switch on top of pedal

32 GTR - yes! if you buy a cheap one be prepared to spend your purchase price again fixing everything on it. if you are looking at 32s then I sould suggest clicking HERE for a bit of info on what to look for in the body. worked on plenty of 33s - never owned one though so I cannot comment.

found out tonight there is a minor difference in the rear harnesses. the plug on the left is my original GTS4 harness and series 1 (1990) the one on the right is whats left of the rear GTR harness that I am using. there are two extra pins on it. they pin out the same apart from a difference in that plug. I will get a pinning tool onto it and swap the plugs out. there are two other differences as well one is a plug and the other is a seat harness. I have that harness and I will integrate it back into mine. bad light again all the lights work on it. 4wd ECU comes up, HICAS won't. suspect that is the mismatched plug I have. I'll sort that one night next week.

ok shoot me a PM. I can help.

it will be ongoing for a while. may not have much posting at times but I am still working on it. new parts cost money as we know. when I have spare money I work on it and buy things . otherwise I do other non cost things I can do myself and have the materials at teh shop for

none. I am using the whole front harness. only issue I forsee will be with the rear harness. I compared it with the cut one I have and it pins out the same from what I can see. I will be doing more on it tonight. basically I'm doing things that do not cost $$ at this point. testing and building harnesses.

if you want steering controls for that let me know. I usually keep them.

quick test of the new harness. this is a later series 2 GTR harness. it fixed a lot of niggles with the car that I had with the original GTS4 harness. broken and chopped plugs being one of them. all the controls on the AC work/ the vent actuators work (originals did not.) . dash lights work seat belt warning works and a host of other stuff that didnt before. I'll plug the rear harness in tomorrow night and bring the rest of the electronics online for a better test. another shot of the radio and AC in action. not the best/most stable shot but the light in the workshop at night is not the best.

and I agree but unless you crawled under it physically and looked at how bent it was both of us would only be speculating. I persoanlly figure that the front laft A pillar is bent, the side panel inner support , door and sill need doing at a guess new there is easily $3k or so in new parts. I pointed this car out to a mate of mine that buys them ex japan and he's still said it would be better to strip than repair. maybe thats what the new oncer wants with it.

hehe!! your thing is broke. it is what we think - part will take me 3-4days to organise. ready for you to gravb or wander over later and grab the keys off the front counter.

no probs.

yup!