Dose Pipe Sutututu

side feeds are gay, don't do it.. you'll cry in your sleep, have nightmares which will result in you wetting your bed.

I tried a mixture of things, first few runs pushed the SS2 (circa 2013) to 26psi, but it bled down to about 23psi.. no real difference in power, then tried a few more runs each time less boost. Seemed pretty happy at 23~24psi however no difference in power. This is when I started adding in more timing, kept on adding more and more and more to the point where it stopped making power (however was listening for audible knock, which I couldn't hear nor see on the logs). Pretty much ended up with the following below (timing trace through logs vs. boost).

no offence taken however is this a street car or a track car? If you're reaching the limits of the stock brakes on the street, then really you should be shot LOL

Just use Lucas Ethanol Stabiliser, pretty cheap and drop in 30mL at a time into your full tank... prior to my flex setup, I just did that and the car gets driven at most once a week, usually every fortnight. Fuel filter after 2000km looked pretty ok, no extra deposits or anything but did have some brown gunk in it as usual. As for running an external, make sure you vent it from the manifold to relieve back pressure.. running the gate of the turbo "may" be a good idea however the factory manifold is pretty restrictive as I've found out on the dyno. The manifold and gate were glowing bright red and when I added in more timing the car wouldn't make any more power... I'm in the process or moving the gate onto the manifold from the turbo housing.. hopefully should see less back pressure and allow me to dial in more timing. FWIW I put in an additional 6 degrees of timing and it only netted 327kW, I pulled back 3 degrees and it made 325kW @1.6bar boost.

You missed my continued post lol Initial was about street use second was about track

to continue my post, for street use you're never really going to hit the limits of the factory brake setup. On the track I agree with others that you'll easily see the limits of the factory brakes but no way on the streets unless you're doing some wangan business down the motorway. By the way what pads are you running? If you answer Bendix then that's why you're thinking you need better brakes and the OEM gear is shit.

I run standard brakes, with Project Mu HC+ on a car that makes well over 300kW+ and it stops fine at Wakefield over and over again. Also it's not like I'm going slow either, average speed down the main straight is about 195km/h I think people always think they need better brakes but what they need are better pads and a set of non homo rotors, ie no dimples no slots no cross drilled bullshit.

** reposted, previous ad had wrong size ** Hey All, Pulled these tyres of the missus' car to replace with RE003 Potenza tyres. Decent tread left on all 4, 2x have about 7mm worth of tread and the other 2x about 4mm tread. Tyres have no punctures, no chucks missing, no blisters and are evenly worn with no visible camber wear. They have been professionally removed by JAX Liverpool (not some backyard job). Brand: Goodyear Range: Assurance Size: 205/55/16 Build Year: 2012 Price: $120 Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166

You have a much greater chance knocking with more timing than more boost less timing, provided your IAT are lowish. Most tuners would choose loads of boost and low timing than loads of timing less boost, provided the turbo can provide enough puff. Saying you can't run more than 20psi on 98 is incorrect.

1. Run less timing, more boost. 2. Get a better FMIC 3. Run less timing 4. Yes, but safer way to tune, get a better FMIC Back to my point, you just can't say "Running 25psi on PULP? That just be asking for trouble IMO. Most people keep to a more sensible 18-20psi and turbos that hit the sweet efficiency there"

not true... cylinder pressure causes motors to go kapow NOT pressure generated by boost.

should try what I recommended earlier, however I know you're the type not to listen so here is what you're looking for. Fuel Pressure Offset Slope (psid) (µsec) (cc/min) 8 Volts 10 Volts 12 Volts 14 Volts 16 Volts 40.0 2195 1495 1115 885 710 845 43.5 2280 1540 1145 910 730 885 (noticed the table lost its formatting, you'll work it out)

also slowest lol, 1m14s

I think you guys need to measure an intercooler's ability to cool down the charged air as well as pressure drop. Measuring the out put power based on an intercooler is not a good way of determining it's efficiency.

oh shit, good pick up lol these are 205/55/16 guys!

just make up a curve you'll be surprised what I've seen come out of workshops lol

Hey All, Pulled these tyres of the missus' car to replace with RE003 Potenza tyres. Decent tread left on all 4, 2x have about 7mm worth of tread and the other 2x about 4mm tread. Tyres have no punctures, no chucks missing, no blisters and are evenly worn with no visible camber wear. They have been professionally removed by JAX Liverpool (not some backyard job). Brand: Goodyear Range: Assurance Size: 205/50/16 Build Year: 2012 Price: $120 Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166

Easiest way is to keep the same VE table as with your current injectors, then scale your new injectors to the correct size then adjust the dead times till you hit stoich (or whatever afr you idled with your old injectors).

those end tanks look kind of restrictive

big dump down pipe ano no cat is best... easily gain 10kW with no cat

X Force lol.. and the rear is Fujitsubo, will piss the lot off after the new turbo setup

I reckon drop the cat and re run the car, there's probably some restriction in the system. When I modded my cat back and introduced a resonator and a mid muffler (both straight through) I noticed a slight drop in response. Even on the dyno it a few weeks back I noticed a slight drop in response coming onto boost, even though I loaded it up at 3k rpm before starting the run. Going to redo the turbo back when I redo the turbo setup.

there you go, data is there can't deny it I say invest in a decent FMIC, I'm going to throw my HDi China Domestic Market IC out for a Plazmaman one sometime next year once I get the new turbo setup on oootttsss Maybe say goodbye to the screamer too..

yeah those gauges are good too! but if your haltech does everything, then there's no real need for that fancy gauge

I've found the AEM UEGO units are reliable, have installed them into several cars and still working. Just one down side is they can only output one signal, not a massive issue if you've got a modern ECU that accepts 0 to 5V then you can simply parallel that signal for other things.