Dose Pipe Sutututu

Another update, got 1m13.01s according to Q-Starz and managed 195.3km/h down the main straight. I really need coilovers LOL

go E85 and a flex setup man... Haltech or Adaptronic ECU will be tits.

sexy, reminds me of my old LP2 Midnight Purple 180SX

If you follow the water line, it mates to a rubber hose behind the head.. it's a slart to get to, but you'll manage... if your hands are too big, you can loosen the gearbox mount & tailshaft bracket and jack up the gearbox - this gives you another 1cm of clearance (that's what I did to get to it)... I think on the R34 NEO motors however it's a metal line all round. On the R33 RB25 and R32 RB20DET it's a stupid rubber hoses with a spring clip.

car runs stock box, stock gearbox, stock head, stock cams.. just has stiffer valve springs and stock cams lol. $80k my arse.. just has forged pistons and rods, even the crank was left untouched... 1200cc of redrilled injectors too

That's Hypergear's car.

Easily controlled by a decent ECU, if WMI runs out lower boost & drop timing.. when WMI is available increase boost & increase timing. Another work around is have your WMI cut off connected to your boost controller's valve OR power, so when there's no WMI available just run gate pressure and with your ECU's timing map only have strong timing at high boost areas when WMI is activated and sedate timing in low boost areas when there's no WMI. I still reckon a flex tune is the way to go, I'm running E85 with a flex tune. It's great drove to the track with E85, raced it, drove home on E40. Less shit to fail than WMI. Even Nistune supports flex now, and it does it quite well.

Hallos, I have 1x R33 S2 Coilpack Harness (the harness that connects to your 6x coilpacks into the engine loom). Ok condition, 1x clip on Coil 2 is broken, however the plug itself isn't broken. Works fine, holds fine. Price: 6x Pack of ok beer, no VB or Fosters or XXXX, Blonde is good, James Squire is better Location: Canley Vale, NSW OR Milsons Point, NSW Contact: Here OR PM

BUMP! This will fit: R31 R32 R33 R34 VL

correct, unless you're constantly spraying WMI lol

I would go 4" inch exhaust and plumb back the external if you're trying to go for the semi legal route. Also none of the off the shelf intercooler kits will cut it. I would be going for at least a 100mm China intercooler or if money permits a 100mm Plazmaman Pro Series intercooler which are assembled in house at their factory. Your IAT will shoot through the roof with those off the shelf kits. If E85 is out of the question, go for WMI. To get 400kW on A small turbo, especially on A 2.5L with 98 would be very hard to achieve.

didn't some kid in a S15 come out sideways and hit a tree? **edit that was down shift

exhaust too small, unless you go external & screamer you'll need WMI with that turbo, I doubt you'll get anywhere near 400kW on 98 FMIC would be a restriction too, IAT will also shoot through the roof

alright, will be doing that before the next track day Thanks for everyone's help... Last one, ARP or ARP2000?

Yeah but make a perfect 98 tune, then all you do is interpolate between the E85 3D map based on the ethanol content. I drove home on about E40.. got mad economy too, did 187km on 20L

sounds like a plan, because I'm not making stupid power with this car is it worth getting the ARP2000 instead of the normal ARP? Just to confirm, neither of the ARP or ARP2000 studs require retapping the block? (yes I've searched, but just to be sure).

I was thinking an used RB25DET NEO motor.. those things are fantastic, makes 400kW without a sweat.

RB25DET NEO seems economical hahaha.... Well it did hold up pretty good at 1.6bar, only started spewing coolant like after lunch. The rest of the afternoon, kept it running at 1.3bar and my mate actually did 12 laps with the car and came back with still same amount of coolant. So I'm hoping there wasn't too "much" damage done. Good science experiment for me hahaha...

But most ECUs have a failsafe, so if the ethanol sensor fails then assume ethanol content is 0% or whatever you set it as. I'm running a flex sensor now too, drove to Wakefield yesterday with four jerry cans. After the track day, drove to 7-11 and filled up with 98 and drove home. And unrelated, I chopped two R34 GT-Rs down the straight at Wakefield...

sigh.... weighing up options now: Be sensible and run less boost Be a tight wad and apply more torque to factory studs Just replace with ARP headstuds New motor

Timing would be on par when WMI kicks in - however E85 would give you more linear torque coming onto boost.. where as WMI has that "jump" in timing when it comes on and off. I sat in zoom's car on Sunday and the torque coming on when the WMI kicked in and timing ramped up was insane.. literally neck snapping action... where as E85 you have crazy timing all round so the power/torque is more "linear" per se.

hahaha.. that involves a cost, however in saying that has anyone successfully removed the head studs and replaced them without taking the cams out? I know the factory cams has a indent/recess so you're able to slide a socket/extension down. If I was to remove the head and redo the head, I might as well just buy an used RB25DET NEO motor.

After some SAU searching, looks like I have the same issue on a completely stock RB25 with 23psi going through the motor. Was at Wakefield yesterday and after the 4th session noticed my overflow was spewing out water however the water temps never went past 95 degrees. Straight away knew the head was lifting, dropped the boost a little down to 18psi and it seem to be ok. Car probably saw about 9 sessions with each being driven hard - still manage to drive the car home in one piece. So now a question, can I just simply just try re-torque the head down without removing anything and just hope that it won't lift the head? I'm trying not to spend any money on the motor at all as I'm pretty happy with the power/response etc. (money to be spent on suspension instead).

^ just remove any enrichment for water temp over 60 degrees, easy enough

Alternatively ao to Western Clutch at St Marys and speak to Scott. He will sort you out, he stocks NPC clutches too and is able to modify the clamp pressure like how Doug at NPC does it.