Dose Pipe Sutututu

^ great explanation as always I was under the impression that worked like how I described, restrict pressure going to the actuator - appears I might have been incorrect. However, these EBCs still work better than your run of the mill turbogaids dual stage bleeder controllers. I might take apart my dual solenoid and see if there are internal "vents" as such, the casing isn't air tight/water tight so it could just vent into the housing and escape somehow (if it similar to a MAC valve).

does the Series 2 AFM work? I have one that was removed from my working car (gone MAP sensor). Happy with $40.

hrms... I always thought the way those solenoids worked was to restrict a pressurised source going to the waste gate thus stopping it from opening, once the desired pressure is reached, the EBC controller then sends a signal down to the solenoid to pulse so just the right amount of pressure to open the wastegate. I didn't think EBC bled air, it depends how you connected the ports, happy to stand corrected (I use a Blitz dual solenoid)

if you have an EBC.. just delete that factory boost controller setup... it's not ideal as it is set up to bleed pressure from the actuator pressure line

haha I've emailed them already.. waiting for their reply! I'll ask about the pro kit

*I'll Come on guys, I'm a dim sim Asian and my engrisher is beta

1x 4ga from the chassis to the block is more than enough.. place it somewhere near all the common grounds

^ we've, I prefer to say we have.. we've sounds rough.

KS-3 OR KS-4? KS-4 has outputs so you can setup closed loop ignition feedback on certain ECUs to retard timing on knock OR whatever your heart pleases

You guys interested in buying it together to save on shipping? I could potentially see if they're willing to do it cheaper if we get 3x and we do reviews on the unit(s) on SAU and also my personal site trak-life.com hahaha probably will never be that serious, although I've had a few SR20DET boys recently with basic bolt-ons asking for road tunes. I have another one next weekend going on E85, I've already swapped the injectors & pump and touched up his tune to accommodate the new squirters - might hire a dyno again for this one. I think the Phomula KS-3 will be more than enough for my needs (mainly 98RON), I find E85 doesn't really knock unless you really fuark up the timing.. usually you know timing is at its peak when the car makes no power when you add more timing in.. then again, I'm relying on the factory knock sensors and the aftermarket ECU to pump out some arbitrary knock value which could mean absolutely nothing as others have told me.

looks a touch sus to me... please be careful guys.

0.35bar / 5 psi is pretty much gate pressure (without the factory bleed 2-step boost controller). As jiffo mentioned, could be either blocked lines to the bleed OR the solenoid is not plugged in/faulty.

^ wow, the features are outstanding - however the price tag is quite hefty if you're just a casual tuner. Would be fabulous in a workshop environment!

I've used the K Mon before (in someone else's car) - not that user friendly.. however not the Phormula Kits.. they do look sexy! nice little unit I must say! http://www.phormula.co.uk/Player.aspx?clip=KS3-Settings&title=Settings%20-%20KS-3%20Knock%20Analyser

The exhaust wheel looks ok, more concerned about the compressor wheel

of course, better not discount that idea.. the factory sensors aren't that great do you have access to a standalone knock monitor such as a K-Mon or Phormula KS kit?

okay, make sure you turn off the ignition lock once you've checked the timing marks however, makes no sense why it should knock with the haltech factory map.. the timing values are very safe.. unless you've got 1+ lean cylinders due to faulty injectors etc.. pull out your spark plugs and see if they're all consistent

you time the crank at 15 using the CAS. you need to sync your ignition system to the ECU.. I have a feeling your CAS is not positioned properly

first thing is first.. have you set your base timing exactly at 15 degrees using the CAS? You can lock the timing with the Haltech so there's no need to adjust the idle, disconnect the TPS, etc.. like the stock ECU.. Load up the Haltech Software Press F4 - this takes you to the Main Menu Go to BASIC --> Ignition Tab Go to Ignition Lock, and choose Enable Perform normal CAS adjustment till timing is at 15 Disable the ignition lock There's no way in hell the stock Haltech map will knock with just 0.8bar of boost.. the timing is very safe.. the only reason it would if your base timing is off OR something is going on with your AFRs

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/444057-microtch-lt16-and-haltech-platinum-sport-1000/

If they're as easy as you say - I'll be happy to invest in a set OR pledge money towards a set being developed and start up a small online shop selling these kits.

time will tell I guess, I have a set of 1200cc waiting to be installed... Of course, any ID/Bosch/XSpurt injectors are light years ahead - but sometimes you need to weigh up the requirements & cost... heck, even 740cc Nismos are enough for Adrian's needs so not sure why he would want to go full tits on top feeds.

MX6 owners, watch out.. Copex turbos are the shiz

nearly looks like this highflowed turbo

interesting compressor wheel though, however definitely not stock! Strap it on the car, tell us what it makes