Dose Pipe Sutututu

oh fuark, now that sucks big time! .. hmmm that could have been through a lean out also, you did say you were only getting some whacked voltage to your fuel pump.

I have ultra low springs, they sit with a 1x finger gap on a R33, probably be the same for a R32 GTS-t they fit 32/33/34 GTS-t and GT-t $40 pick up

yep, entire pipe from turbo to throttle body including factory SMIC

to be honest, I would just remove the RB20DET and put in the RB25DET and you'll achieve that 230kW much easier, cheaper and lag free.

hahahha.... or I'm royally hungover/passed out this weekend

I'm going to be re-wiring my pump (same one) with a drop resistor & beefed up relays.. I'll write up a guide once I'm done! Will retain the factory drop resistor, but on throttle the pump will get full power without melting shit LOL

put it on eBay and use key words like BOLT ON, RB20DET, HKS etc.. someone (hopefully not from this forum) will buy it then get your stocker high flowed by Hypergear and fry tyres

No, they collapse on a hot day with anything more than stock boost levels when using a factory airbox or a semi restrictive pod filter

do you have access to a hand held wideband O2? usually much easier to assess what the car is doing than trial and error

As Sir_RB said, earth it directly, teeing the original ground feed is pointless and makes the wiring messy

Check them again, maybe plugs are shot now from all the fuelling shenanigans

That doesn't sound right, try ground off the -ve line and see if the voltage increase

^ hahahah we are all retards, just half retard OR full retard... I might be overcomplicating this shit, because slow or fast or whatever the fuel will heat up regardless from the rail

That doesn't sound right at all, it will still flow even a lower voltage.. Jab a multimeter on your fuel pump power and see if it rises as you flex the throttle.. even a stationary jab will raise the voltage. I have a feeling the factory wiring isn't keeping up with the current load and in turn the pump isn't getting what it needs.

$140 SEAT ONLY, TAKE IT AWAY

correct, hence the negative triggered relay for the full voltage..will have beefy earth wiring. on idle, the current is very low as the fuel pressure is only at 3bar, theoretically only max of 15AMP (which the stock wiring will handle).. so how it will work fuel pump + ve: 40AMP relay & 25AMP fuse with 12ga wiring - ve: 2x negative feeds, 1x stock low voltage for idle & 1x 40AMP relay & 25AMP fuse with 12ga wiring for full noise, triggered by the FPCM.

After some quick reading the stock FPCM has 2x negative outputs.. one going through a dropping resistor to produce the +10V or so and the other negative output going through no resistor. These both then merge back into 1x negative wiring going back into the fuel pump, commonly people chop this wire and then ground it off to get a constant 13.8V to the fuel pump. So, this is what I have planned (I will put my car to the test). Disconnect the non resisted ground from the FPCM Connect that to a relay ( as a negative trigger, connect the positive trigger to the fuel pump +ve signal & the other earth wire to the body & fuel pump directly) Connect the positive of the fuel pump to a relay to for the positive power (fuel pump -> relay -> 25AMP fuse -> battery -> fuel pump positive trigger) Bridge the factory dropped negative line back into the fuel pump's negative wire. This means the fuel pump will NOT use the car's factory +ve wiring but only the car's factory -ve low voltage line, when it clicks over full noise it's purely running off 2x relays direct to the battery. What do you reckon?

btw.. that seat rail will fit S13/14/15 as well

look like a dim sim eBay manifold for a RB with an dodged up penis job of external gate port modded to it lol

blast from the past (last year lol) Ok I've installed my Walbro 460L and I know one day it will be drawing nearly 17~20 AMP of current at full song, provided the fuel pressure is close to 60 PSI (3 bar base pressure + 1.5 bar of boost = 65 PSI). At the moment it poses no threat to melting connectors & wires as I'm only running a boring 0.9bar of boost which would only bring the fuel pressure to 56PSI on full noise, so the factory 15AMP fuel wiring will handle it just fine. I am planning to ALSO retain the factory FPCM, however use the negative trigger from FPCM to trigger a relay to feed direct battery voltage to the pump when the FPCM is triggered. I will be using 12 gauge cable to a 40AMP horn relay connected to a 25AMP blade fuse, this relay will only ever trigger when the throttle is pressed pretty much. I understand people say that low voltage kills walbros, however I've used older 255 pumps and left it in the original wiring setup for many years and nothing has failed. Has anyone attempted that? I've done a google search but everyone seems to just ground off the pump.

Under the steering column, so it's a constant +12V / +13.8 when running... as Joey said, just have a clean earth point using a spade terminal to the body of the car. Where you located? I can have a look for you, if I can fix it a case of beer will do the trick haha

oh hey! lol Sorry didn't notice you, probably was too busy checking out the blonde in the 323 next to me haha

That's me! Was heading to the beach

2530 2535 2540 why bother? Just get a hypergear high flow, will make more power and bolt up with OEM lines.

Aaannnndddd SOLD