Dose Pipe Sutututu

But you're running bigger brakes, cheater lol All I've done was upgrade pads and they did the trick, heck I'm only running OEM rotors! No need to worry about cracking or fracturing - Nissan metal is good LOL

I I use PBR fluid which has a higher boiling point, thing is the only thing I did was change pads to Intima SR and I was able to go lap after lap after lap and only towards the end they started to show signs of fading unlike the QFMs QFM are over rated, I have mates who have crumbled those pads - heck even Matty on this forum has issues with these pads. They might have been really good back in the days because everything was so expensive however these days there are better for money.

I run 6 with 0.8mm gap @ 1.5bar no misfires with just run of the mill Splitfire coil packs @ 2.5ms dwell time on E85

That looks like a lightened flywheel

I've used Bendix Ultimate at Eastern Creek South Circuit, after about 3 laps the brakes were cooked. Then I upgraded to QFM A1RMs used them at my first ever outing at Wakefield Park, held up about 3/4 laps then after that the car needed pedal to floor to stop (mind you I'm not doing any amazing times either) Then I was recommended by a few EVO boys to try out Intima SR - been using them since and they hold up for me on Wakefield Park.. the initial bite isn't that great but they don't fade like the other two pads. I could do 7/8 laps without any major fade - however that was with ~200kW and only topped at 168km/h down the straight. Since then, I've probably got over 300kW+ with my home brew tune, so I thought I should pick up some Project Mu HC+ to up my comfort levels for when I return to Wakefield.. Just as a FYI... Project Mu have replaced HC+ with HC800 - and best part, they're cheaper $179 for the fronts http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/pad_hcplus.php Not sure if they will be the same as the infamous HC+

Try Intima SR pads, they will fit the budget and will pull up better than QFM A1RM and won't squeal (bonus)

My advice, anything benefit for a sports car just throw it in the bin

Project Mu HC+ done

Leave them alone

Hrms I track my car with the stock clutch fan, I don't see it breaking?

Oh yeah stock smic too $50 with all pipes and shit minus the cross over pipe

Yep I'll snap up photos over the weekend

Bigger breasts aren't always as nimble as small breasts are in bed... big breast look good but are more than a handful to handle. EVOs are good Skylines are good for ripping skids

I have: stock injectors & rail/FPR.. $50 - needs new pintle caps, I smashed them when I removed the injectors LOL stock BOV $20 stock turb exhaust manifold $20 (needs new studs where the turbo goes on) stock dump/front pipe $20 have the lot for $100 OR 2x cases of nice beer

^ yep I cringe when I hear/see people doing it to their built motors! Then they will say "well just baby it till it gets to the right temp" during that time most of the west and tear is happening but each to their own right?

Who needs four doors after all?

Are you still running the factory water/oil heat exchanger? If not I suggest you do as it keeps the oil temp in line with the water temp.

^ might also snap the output shaft, chew up a transfer case too if you're a rough driver my friend thought it could light up all 4s in front of my house, clutch dumped it at 7k.. wasn't pretty LOL You can treat a Skyline (minus R32 GTS-t) like a dirty hooker and it will take the abuse - you do that to a princess EVO and it will have a mental breakdown and PMS for weeks.. However EVO > Skyline in terms of performance, handling, comfort, doors, room for sex

I have a NPC 10" Carbotic Clutch Disc for sale.. all you need is to buy yourself a pressure plate and off you go. It has next to no wear, I took it out thinking my clutch was stuffed (with a new plate ready) however turned out I had issues with the fork, bearing carrier, bearing so now I'm left with this disc which has next to no wear on it. I'm after $150 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/440769-fs-syd-npc-carbotic-clutch-disc-near-new-rb25det-s2-stock-turbo-r33-rb25det-toshi-remapped-ecu-r33-stock-radiator-sway-bars/#entry7244962

a V8 is perfect for street I've driven a few V8s and absolutely love the power/flat torque.. although the noise sounds abit shit.. (minus euro V8s, they somehow sound farking tits)

Hrms roads are damp tonight, 300kW feels like 90kW because the car doesn't move when the wheels turn LOL

Passenger 75 & Cat Martin - No more Road to run (Radio Edit)

here we go, of course these settings probably won't work for your car however it will give you an idea of where to start... Please note the reason why my VE in my crank tables are lower than yours is because I've set my injector dead times pretty high.. to get these stupid rubbish garden hose injectors to idle properly. Best way around this is to start up the Adaptronic software and press 'F2' on your keyboard. Then start your car, note where the water temp is at and adjust your idle duty vs. water temp so it idles where you want it too. Just remember to set the PID all to '0' (remembering the old values) - this takes the idle off closed loop. I remembered wrong haha, however with the cranking fuel table.. do the same see where your water temp is and adjust the cranking fuel around that area till the car starts nice and easy, then fill in the values between the new point and your warm point.. just guess the values - tends to be close enough, unless you're board and you set and test per temperature range

I'm on E85 as well I have mine set at 80 ish when warm, when it's cold it's about 140% and tapers down, I'll take some screen shots when I get home (however my injector latency is set VERY high hence the VE in vacuum is inaccurate) You don't need to jab anything, you can actually set the extra throttle duty & timing it holds for on initial start PM me who tuned your car - I'm curious

I did too when I was young, 1st RWD saw a mig, 1st turbo RWD saw shims lol